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Can't shut GL1100 off

2K views 55 replies 14 participants last post by  randames22 
#1 ·
I have a"new to me" '82 GL 1100. My son-in-law washed her down the other day and now we can't shut the thing off. Have to pull the ground to kill 'er. I have taken the switch off and when I hook the ground up, the power is still there. I KNOW there are some guru's on here that know EXACTLY what is wrong but I sure don't. If it comes on without the key, where is the problem then? The key switch looks okay and I have cleaned all the contacts. Is there a relay that could be shorted somewhere? HELP!!!!
 
#35 ·
Thanks for all the help, guys. It's dark thirty outside and I have no lights to continue working on it, so I am going to put it to bed and hope it wakes up on the right side of the bed, lol. Will attack tomorrow and see what I can figure out. I'm sure my limited intelligence will NOT be expanded by the morning, but who knows, stranger things have happened. Thanks again y'all.
 
#36 ·
There is water in the ignition switch? Maybe. There could be a chafed wire that showed up when the bike got wet. What do you have to do to start the engine? Do you go through the normal routine? Will it start with the key in the 'off' position? Will it start in gear or without disengaging the clutch?

The starter solenoid only powers the starter when it is engaged. It does not power any other part of the bike.

Water is not a particularly good conductor. It is the chlorine, fluorine, salt, medications, dissolved minerals and other chemicals that make it conductive. Those are present in city water.

A nice, warm day with lots of sunlight might be your best friend.
 
#37 ·
Had the ignition switch all apart and back together. It has been 6 days since the bath. Been pretty warm, too, for all those days. Bike will start without key. have to pull ground to kill it or use kill switch. key doesn't even need to be in ignition. I have pulled every plug/connection apart and can't figure out the problem. I'm sure there is NO water anywhere in the system now. Can't find any chaffed wires anywhere that I have looked. The horn won't honk until I turn the key on, however. It will make a sound with key off but will honk when key is turned on. Real baffling.
 
#41 ·
have to pull ground to kill it or use kill switch.
The kill switch stops the bike? Did you mention this before?
If the kill switch kills the engine, it narrows things down quite a bit.
The red wire from the battery is connected in the ignition to the black wire that feeds the kill switch.
That black wire also feed the cooling fan, the regulator/rectifier and the fuse box.
It isn't a fused wire, it provides power to the fuse box for other circuits.
disconnect the ignition switch.
Remove all fuses from the fuse box.
Disconnect the fan motor.
Disconnect the regulator.
Place the kill switch in the off (no start) position.
Connect the battery terminals.
With a voltmeter, test for voltage at any of the black wires disconnected. The regulator would probably be closest.
There should be NO voltage. Not 8 volts, or 5 volts, NO voltage.
If there is, you have a harness problem. If there isn't, start plugging components back in one at a time until the problem presents itself.
Be aware, if the problem returns by installing a fuse, you'll have to start the process all over again on THAT circuit.
Since you have everything off already, this part should go rather quickly.
 
#39 ·
You need to take a full inventory of bike electrical. Does everything work like it should and if not figure that out. Then on to any PO added wiring or previous repairs from a visual inspection and check that work.

With a wiring diagram for ignition system find out where it is supplied with juice (ignition switch) check for juice on that wire with it unplugged and then work back to next connector and so on and so forth until the fault is found. And also do a wiggle test of harness looking for a correction of fault.
 
#40 ·
There is a four wire plug on the starter solenoid. inspect it very thoroughly. Make sure the wires are where they belong and that none of them are shorted.

One pair of the four wires is the main power feed for the bike and are normally switched via the keyed ignition switch. If those two wires are shorted together, or connected to the wrong spades the bike will have power without the key switch.

Normally there is a plastic connector for that plug that keeps the wires where they belong. However when i bough my wing that plug had been eliminated and there were just four wires with spade connectors. Took me two days to figure them out when i accidentally got them mixed up.
 
#42 ·
I know this is going to sound stupid, since you've had the ignition switch apart and cleaned it BUT, have you checked continuity on the switch itself to verify that when you turn it to the off position, it actually breaks the connection between the black and red wires? Something may shorted internally. Put an ohmmeter on it and let us know.
 
#43 ·
Got voltage when I put the 10 Amp fuse in the slot marked, "Turn Cancel, Tail, Meterlamp.
 
#44 ·
Got voltage when I put the 10 Amp fuse in the slot marked, "Turn Cancel, Tail, Meterlamp. Put ignition switch back in and starter will spin with key on and fuse out. With fuse in doesn't matter where key is so it looks like that circuit is the culprit. Working to find a short there, right?
 
#46 ·
WOOHOO - This may or may not be disturbing, but after all that I have done following everyone's suggestions, doing as glhonda described, this bike is running correct. But here's the catch, all I did was unplug stuff and plug it back and then things began to work right. Nothing fell out, nothing was broken, didn't find any wires that were bare or anything like that but when I disconnected the 9-pin Red plug and plugged it back things seemed to be okay. Tail lights work, turn cancel works. OOOOOOPPPPSSSS hold the phone. Just had to do several starts and stops and you guessed it, back not working. Okay, I will just try to figure this crap out again. That's life, at least I think I am closer to a solution.
 
#47 ·
P.S. I had NO tail light when it was running and now I do. That should mean something, right? Could it be the socket maybe?
 
#48 ·
Well, everything plugged back in again and of course, it works. Have tail lights, key works right. It seems that I have to unplug that Red 9-pin connector and plug it back in and then it works. I can't find anything around that plug, yet at least, that could be a problem. I just can't unplug and plug back in that thing everytime it doesn't want to work tho, so.................
 
#49 ·
Okay!!! Just stripped tape off of the Red 9-pin plug and guess what I found, much to my surprise, BARE WIRES. Been really hot sometime and several are melted. Must have just help my mouth right before when it worked. So...........will be working on that harness to separate wires and insulate them. Gosh guys, you are the BEST. I know I have said that before, but this thing would sit and NOT be ridden it I didn't have your help. Wish I had won the lottery last night and I would have given some of it up!!
 
#50 ·
Boy, have I found a rat's nest of melted wires. From that 9-pin plug and from the ignition switch. A lot have melted together and it will be a chore to peel everything (old tape and rubber sleeve) and trace wires and replace. Who said owning these things was easy anyway, lol,!!!!!!
 
#51 ·
You may have only touched the tip of the iceberg, be very careful when repair is done and connecting battery up again in case of other shorted wires.

With the key off just tap the main ground wire to battery and check for sparks. Better yet would be a meter or a fuse inline between the two.
 
#52 ·
So true, so true. It will be a time consuming fix without getting some new pigtails but I think there are enough of the good wires on either end to identify and use. Just have to make several connections in between. Starting to rain so had to clear out another spot in garage to work on it but I don't need water to compound this problem.
 
#53 ·
For those wires to melt you had to have some resistance in the connector pins on that 9 pin plug and also at the switch. Any resistance in a connector will create heat when there is current flowing through it. While you have the connectors apart check for evidence of burned or corroded pins. Clean them with a wire brush or something similar to get rid of any corrosion to keep it from getting hot again.
 
#55 ·
For those wires to melt you had to have some resistance in the connector pins on that 9 pin plug and also at the switch.
Probably not. But check them anyway.
If you look, there is no battery source wire in that connector loom, that's just where the problem manifested itself. Most likely, wire chaffing as Dave eluded to earlier.
At least now, he has something he can fix.
 
#54 ·
Finally have ALL burnt wires traced back to good wire and color. Not all were affected but there were plenty that were. Now comes the splicing. I feel like I am back in the OR dissecting vessels, etc. Not very sterile tho, working in a garage with dirty hands, lol. Anyway, going forward and I WILL get this thing up and running before too long. Again, stay tuned for the end result. And THANKS again to y'all.
 
#56 ·
Mostly back together and just got a few more things like the seat, back bags, faux tank, etc. but the best thing is..........it WORKS CORRECTLY. No left over bolts or nuts either, always a good sign. Couldn't have done it without all of your collective minds working in my behalf,THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU. I can tell you that I've learned some things but hope I don't have to repeat this frustration again. Love tinkering with bikes but this 2 day exploration wasn't high on the "fun" list. Good night to y'all and thanks again.
 
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