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I am about to buy 4 rebuild kits from an ebay seller for around $70. Does anyone know of a good price on a set of 4 air cut valves and an accelerater pump? Thanks.



Can anyone confirm if the air cuts are vital for proper idle? Could a bad one cause poor or incomplete combustion at idle?



Thanks again....
 

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Has anyone used the "Keyster" rebuild kit for the GL1100? That appears to be the lowest priced rebuild kit.



thanks.
 

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I just rebuilt mine (81 1100) and I bought the kits from Partsnmore for $12.00 ea. At this price you get the base kit and it is not as comprehensive as the K&L kits for about $34.

You should tear them down and assess the level that you need, then order. Priority mail puts them in your hands in 3 days. Usually the brass parts are cleanable (jets, seats etc). Even the float valve maybe good. You can inspect to see if it has a groove or test it under air pressure (2-3 psi). The other consumables are the 0-ring in the idle mixture screw and the float bowl gasket. These items are almost always toast.

You might have to replace the cross over tube o-rings and the manifold elbow o-rings. The latter is critical because any air ingestion at this point corrupts the critical air/fuel mixture that you worked hard to maintain upstream to the circuit. They are only $10 for a set of 4. You can get them ala carte at http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com.

90% of your idle problems have to do with the circuit itself. It starts with a jet that gets scant attention in any of the manuals but is easily blocked and not so easily cleaned. It is situated in the middle of the 3 risers next to the one that houses the main jet. The only way you can ascertain if it is clear is by spraying some gumout and filling the cavity above the jet. If the gumout stays or drains slowly its stilled clogged. Get a rubber tipped blow gun and blast the solvent through the jet. When cleared you will see vapor rising from the idle adjust screw hole. You can floss the jet hole with a small copper wire but don't be aggressive. Let the solvent do the work not the wire or you will enlarge the hole. Make sure the idle screw bore is clean. Take it out in the sun light and make sure you can see shiny metal and day light at the end of the tunnel. Do a reverse gumout blast in the idle screw bore. This is a good way to learn about the plumbing in this rig but be careful and wear eye protection, gumout and eyeballs don't mix.

Lastly the aircut off is more critical in deceleration but since they are interelated it does have some effect on the idle circuit.

What I'm curious about, is do any of you shave your nuts? I mean the tang that hangs on the idle mixture screw that limits adjustment. I'm tempted to retro mine into the '60's (pre-EPA).
 

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When you refer to the idle mixture screw do you mean each pilot screw with the limiter cap sticking out of the bottom of each carb? I have one with the limiter cap broker off and the other 3 have them. Then I broke on of the limiter caps. So I am looking to replace all of those screws just to have everything standardized.





chumbiwumba wrote:
I just rebuilt mine (81 1100) and I bought the kits from Partsnmore for $12.00 ea. At this price you get the base kit and it is not as comprehensive as the K&L kits for about $34.

You should tear them down and assess the level that you need, then order. Priority mail puts them in your hands in 3 days. Usually the brass parts are cleanable (jets, seats etc). Even the float valve maybe good. You can inspect to see if it has a groove or test it under air pressure (2-3 psi). The other consumables are the 0-ring in the idle mixture screw and the float bowl gasket. These items are almost always toast.

You might have to replace the cross over tube o-rings and the manifold elbow o-rings. The latter is critical because any air ingestion at this point corrupts the critical air/fuel mixture that you worked hard to maintain upstream to the circuit. They are only $10 for a set of 4. You can get them ala carte at http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com.

90% of your idle problems have to do with the circuit itself. It starts with a jet that gets scant attention in any of the manuals but is easily blocked and not so easily cleaned. It is situated in the middle of the 3 risers next to the one that houses the main jet. The only way you can ascertain if it is clear is by spraying some gumout and filling the cavity above the jet. If the gumout stays or drains slowly its stilled clogged. Get a rubber tipped blow gun and blast the solvent through the jet. When cleared you will see vapor rising from the idle adjust screw hole. You can floss the jet hole with a small copper wire but don't be aggressive. Let the solvent do the work not the wire or you will enlarge the hole. Make sure the idle screw bore is clean. Take it out in the sun light and make sure you can see shiny metal and day light at the end of the tunnel. Do a reverse gumout blast in the idle screw bore. This is a good way to learn about the plumbing in this rig but be careful and wear eye protection, gumout and eyeballs don't mix.

Lastly the aircut off is more critical in deceleration but since they are interelated it does have some effect on the idle circuit.

What I'm curious about, is do any of you shave your nuts? I mean the tang that hangs on the idle mixture screw that limits adjustment. I'm tempted to retro mine into the '60's (pre-EPA).
 

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I SHAVED MINE THE LAST TIMEI HAD THEM OUT. IT MAKES IT MUCH EASIER TO FINE TUNE AFTER INSLALLING.
 

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chumbiwumba wrote:
What I'm curious about, is do any of you shave your nuts? I mean the tang that hangs on the idle mixture screw that limits adjustment. I'm tempted to retro mine into the '60's (pre-EPA).
POMTL!

Great, informativepost (I think I will print a copy for my rebuild)- and great kicker at the end!
 

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Standardize the rest on a Sears grinder. Back in the old days when dinosaurs ruled the earth and gas was just 25 cents a gallons, there were no tangs on idle mixure screws. You just screwed with your carbs until they worked.

Then they put tangs (limiters) on our wings but industry and cars that get 12mpg dump tons of pollution each day into the atmosphere. We are like farts in a hurricane, nobodies gonna notice if you shave your nuts.

You can make up for it by becoming a vegan. That way McDonalds will slaughter one less cow contributing to less polution than your tangless Wing.



edzinohio wrote:
When you refer to the idle mixture screw do you mean each pilot screw with the limiter cap sticking out of the bottom of each carb? I have one with the limiter cap broker off and the other 3 have them. Then I broke on of the limiter caps. So I am looking to replace all of those screws just to have everything standardized.





chumbiwumba wrote:
I just rebuilt mine (81 1100) and I bought the kits from Partsnmore for $12.00 ea. At this price you get the base kit and it is not as comprehensive as the K&L kits for about $34.

You should tear them down and assess the level that you need, then order. Priority mail puts them in your hands in 3 days. Usually the brass parts are cleanable (jets, seats etc). Even the float valve maybe good. You can inspect to see if it has a groove or test it under air pressure (2-3 psi). The other consumables are the 0-ring in the idle mixture screw and the float bowl gasket. These items are almost always toast.

You might have to replace the cross over tube o-rings and the manifold elbow o-rings. The latter is critical because any air ingestion at this point corrupts the critical air/fuel mixture that you worked hard to maintain upstream to the circuit. They are only $10 for a set of 4. You can get them ala carte at http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com.

90% of your idle problems have to do with the circuit itself. It starts with a jet that gets scant attention in any of the manuals but is easily blocked and not so easily cleaned. It is situated in the middle of the 3 risers next to the one that houses the main jet. The only way you can ascertain if it is clear is by spraying some gumout and filling the cavity above the jet. If the gumout stays or drains slowly its stilled clogged. Get a rubber tipped blow gun and blast the solvent through the jet. When cleared you will see vapor rising from the idle adjust screw hole. You can floss the jet hole with a small copper wire but don't be aggressive. Let the solvent do the work not the wire or you will enlarge the hole. Make sure the idle screw bore is clean. Take it out in the sun light and make sure you can see shiny metal and day light at the end of the tunnel. Do a reverse gumout blast in the idle screw bore. This is a good way to learn about the plumbing in this rig but be careful and wear eye protection, gumout and eyeballs don't mix.

Lastly the aircut off is more critical in deceleration but since they are interelated it does have some effect on the idle circuit.

What I'm curious about, is do any of you shave your nuts? I mean the tang that hangs on the idle mixture screw that limits adjustment. I'm tempted to retro mine into the '60's (pre-EPA).
 

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chumbiwumba wrote:
We are like farts in a hurricane, nobodies gonna notice if you shave your nuts.
I think you're right, no one noticed when I shaved my beard and it was easier to see.
 

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chumbiwumba wrote:
We are like farts in a hurricane, nobodies gonna notice if you shave your nuts.
Hey chumbiwumba:waving: That sounds like a very tricky procedure.....:realshocked:







:12red::cool:
 

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dean_3326 wrote:
chumbiwumba wrote:
We are like farts in a hurricane, nobodies gonna notice if you shave your nuts.
Hey chumbiwumba:waving: That sounds like a very tricky procedure.....:realshocked:
Do ya do it with a straight razor! No wonder bikers get a rep as tough guys!
 

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exavid wrote:
dean_3326 wrote:
chumbiwumba wrote:
We are like farts in a hurricane, nobodies gonna notice if you shave your nuts.
Hey chumbiwumba:waving: That sounds like a very tricky procedure.....:realshocked:
Do ya do it with a straight razor! No wonder bikers get a rep as tough guys!
Gives me the jitters just thinking about it!
 

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Aside from the shaving thing...
How do you get your hands in there? Or tool or whatever to adjust those screws? When all is warmed up some stuff in there is hot. I can just barely reach my fingers in there. Any help on this, please?
 
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