imported post
2 turns is twice around the clock 24 hrs
Wilf
2 turns is twice around the clock 24 hrs
Wilf
CARB REBUILD GL1000
imported post
Hi all,
Back with another question. I rebuilt the carbs on my 76 GL1000. The bike is running again, but I have a question on the Pilot screw settings. The manual says to screw the pilot screw in until it is fully seated, then back it out "two turns".
My question; is it two turns (360 deg times two) or two turns (180 deg times two)? I have been using the (360 deg times two) method, and it seems like that is a lot for an initial setting.
For reference, I put a small bit of red paint on one side of the screw slot and count the turns 180 degs at a time for a total of four turns.
Can't wait to hear from some of the veterans out there.
Thanks
Paul
Hi all,
Back with another question. I rebuilt the carbs on my 76 GL1000. The bike is running again, but I have a question on the Pilot screw settings. The manual says to screw the pilot screw in until it is fully seated, then back it out "two turns".
My question; is it two turns (360 deg times two) or two turns (180 deg times two)? I have been using the (360 deg times two) method, and it seems like that is a lot for an initial setting.
For reference, I put a small bit of red paint on one side of the screw slot and count the turns 180 degs at a time for a total of four turns.
Can't wait to hear from some of the veterans out there.
Thanks
Paul
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imported post
2 full 360 degree turns. 180 is 1/2 turn.
2 full 360 degree turns. 180 is 1/2 turn.
imported post
In my calculations:
one turn = 360 degrees
On my 1100 I've found it likes 3.25 turns out from lightly seated. So it doesnt matter what may seem like a lot... its how fine the thread is... a fine thread isnt actually backing out as much as a coarse thread would for the same number of turns.
If the bike likes it... then its fine. Does it idle nicely... and are the plugs the right color... those are the things to watch for. You may have to adjust your timing after setting the carbs.
Thats my .02 cents worth.
In my calculations:
one turn = 360 degrees
On my 1100 I've found it likes 3.25 turns out from lightly seated. So it doesnt matter what may seem like a lot... its how fine the thread is... a fine thread isnt actually backing out as much as a coarse thread would for the same number of turns.
If the bike likes it... then its fine. Does it idle nicely... and are the plugs the right color... those are the things to watch for. You may have to adjust your timing after setting the carbs.
Thats my .02 cents worth.
imported post
That looks like 12 cents worth G.Ray.
Click "reply" once and wait.
EDIT: I cleaned it up Dave, all better now. John
That looks like 12 cents worth G.Ray.
Click "reply" once and wait.
EDIT: I cleaned it up Dave
, all better now. Johnimported post
I need to do an idle drop. I've got a dwell/tach/volt device. How do I hook it up on my 12 to do the idle drop? I'm pretty sure one lead clamps to no. 1 plug wire but where do I connect the other lead?
I need to do an idle drop. I've got a dwell/tach/volt device. How do I hook it up on my 12 to do the idle drop? I'm pretty sure one lead clamps to no. 1 plug wire but where do I connect the other lead?
imported post
Thanks.....
As I said, I used the 2 complete turns, and adjusted the idle, she seems to run fine. I do not seem to have any problems, although I think she is running a little rich. I want to get the timing set and the ctarbs synch/balanced. Then I will be able to see if anything else is going on. I use the choke everytime, although if it is warm andsunny, she does not really need it.
This brings me to another question, if I think she is running a little rich, do I turn out the pilot screws or turn them in to lean it out?
Paul
Thanks.....
As I said, I used the 2 complete turns, and adjusted the idle, she seems to run fine. I do not seem to have any problems, although I think she is running a little rich. I want to get the timing set and the ctarbs synch/balanced. Then I will be able to see if anything else is going on. I use the choke everytime, although if it is warm andsunny, she does not really need it.
This brings me to another question, if I think she is running a little rich, do I turn out the pilot screws or turn them in to lean it out?
Paul
imported post
Thanks.....
As I said, I used the 2 complete turns, and adjusted the idle, she seems to run fine. I do not seem to have any problems, although I think she is running a little rich. I want to get the timing set and the ctarbs synch/balanced. Then I will be able to see if anything else is going on. I use the choke everytime, although if it is warm andsunny, she does not really need it.
This brings me to another question, if I think she is running a little rich, do I turn out the pilot screws or turn them in to lean it out?
Paul
Thanks.....
As I said, I used the 2 complete turns, and adjusted the idle, she seems to run fine. I do not seem to have any problems, although I think she is running a little rich. I want to get the timing set and the ctarbs synch/balanced. Then I will be able to see if anything else is going on. I use the choke everytime, although if it is warm andsunny, she does not really need it.
This brings me to another question, if I think she is running a little rich, do I turn out the pilot screws or turn them in to lean it out?
Paul
imported post
escogold wrote:
escogold wrote:
I don't know if your device is the same type as mine, but it does have the same functions. Check up here: http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/80256.htmlI need to do an idle drop. I've got a dwell/tach/volt device. How do I hook it up on my 12 to do the idle drop? I'm pretty sure one lead clamps to no. 1 plug wire but where do I connect the other lead?
imported post
Thanks Alex. Didn't mean to topic hop but thought it was relevant.:cooldevil: I've already bookmarked the page. Thanks again.
Thanks Alex. Didn't mean to topic hop but thought it was relevant.:cooldevil: I've already bookmarked the page. Thanks again.
imported post
O.K.,
Took the carbs off again, got the two broken pieces out, put it all back together again. While I had it apart, I discovered that one of the o rings had fallen off the bottom side of the air cutoff valve. Found a spare and got that back on. Put it all back together , pulled out the choke and she fired right up, revved up to about 4k, then started dropping. I tried pushing in the choke part way, but it dropped to stall. I pushed the choke in all the way and she started right up, gave her a quick goose and let go of the throttle and she settled into an idle, seems to run fine. I haven't had a chance to ride due to the rain.
If it does not require much choke to start when cold, is that a sign that it is running too rich or lean?
Thanks
O.K.,
Took the carbs off again, got the two broken pieces out, put it all back together again. While I had it apart, I discovered that one of the o rings had fallen off the bottom side of the air cutoff valve. Found a spare and got that back on. Put it all back together , pulled out the choke and she fired right up, revved up to about 4k, then started dropping. I tried pushing in the choke part way, but it dropped to stall. I pushed the choke in all the way and she started right up, gave her a quick goose and let go of the throttle and she settled into an idle, seems to run fine. I haven't had a chance to ride due to the rain.
If it does not require much choke to start when cold, is that a sign that it is running too rich or lean?
Thanks
imported post
In my opinion it should require choke to start and run cold otherwise it is too rich when warm to be efficient. Turning the mixture screws in may help but usually it's the float level too high that causes rich running if the jets are original size.
In my opinion it should require choke to start and run cold otherwise it is too rich when warm to be efficient. Turning the mixture screws in may help but usually it's the float level too high that causes rich running if the jets are original size.
imported post
DaveO430 wrote:
I thought that less air + more fuel = rich conditions.
Do the pilot screws affect air flow or fuel flow?
DaveO430 wrote:
If I turn the pilot screws in does that make it leaner?In my opinion it should require choke to start and run cold otherwise it is too rich when warm to be efficient. Turning the mixture screws in may help but usually it's the float level too high that causes rich running if the jets are original size.
I thought that less air + more fuel = rich conditions.
Do the pilot screws affect air flow or fuel flow?
imported post
The screws adjust the fuel so in means less fuel, leaner.
The screws adjust the fuel so in means less fuel, leaner.
imported post
Well that may explain a lot. Before I rebuilt my carbs, I was running 2 and 1/2 turns out. When I cleaned and rebuilt, I returned them to the 2 and 1/2 out, I will try turning them in a 1/2 turn at a time and see how it does.
Thanks
Paul
Well that may explain a lot. Before I rebuilt my carbs, I was running 2 and 1/2 turns out. When I cleaned and rebuilt, I returned them to the 2 and 1/2 out, I will try turning them in a 1/2 turn at a time and see how it does.
Thanks
Paul
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