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I thought I had the same problem again. I was setting on the wing and eased the throttle and it jumped from apx. 950 to 1300. Well I went for a short ride, stopped at a stop sign I was in 1st gear, I throttled it up and it went 9-10-11-12-1300 ect. it was perfect. Got back home setting there in neutral I throttled it up and it jumped 950 to 1300. So I thought I'll put it in gear and try it and it worked perfect, put it back in neutral jumped 950 to 1300. I already new when you clutch it in 4th or 5th it idled faster. With all this said there must be a sensor that changes something on the carbs when in gear or neutral. I did this neutral - 1st gear test a dozen times with the same results :stumped:
Is it me or is there a sensor:gunhead:.....Gary
 

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Can we have a little more information.

Which bike, what year and so forth.
 

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Tonys96 wrote:
Can we have a little more information.

Which bike, what year and so forth.
It is a 1990 GL1500 has all the same things as the SE ie: reverse, CB ect...gary
 

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Tony to make sure I explained it clear. The bike idles right. This 950 to 1300 is when the throttle is eased up, but when its in gear and you ease the throttle up in does right 9-10-11-12-1300 ect....thanks ....gary
 

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So if I understand you, when started and warm, the bike idles at 950 RPM in neutral.

When in neutral and you"ease" (does this mean blip or slowly increase the throttle)the idlejumps to 1350and holds there, won't drop back to 950.

In Gear when you pull the clutch lever the idleholds at 950. Also when in gear the idle increases smoothly when you "ease" the throttle, then drops back to 950 when the throttle is released.

I know of no sensor that increases idle speed when in gear, my 1989 drops to the same idle speed regardless of the gear, or neutral chosen.

Kind of an interesting isuue.

The throttle is a direct cable actuation, not fly by wire. The Vacuum Pistons just ensure a constant velocity of airflow.

The enrichment circuit is direct cable actuation, not fly by wire.

I'm kind of scratchin' my head on this one. Neutral should be spinning the largest rotational mass, clutch and transmission mainshaft, when in gear at rest the clutch disengages the rotational mass of the transmission mainshaft.

What this means is that if the revs come up slower when at rest in gear, suspect a dragging clutch. Change fluid and bleed the slave cylinder.

Also in neutral if the idle doesn't drop back down, suspect a linkage or cable hangup. Lubricate cables and linkages, check for kinked cables.

I fail to make the connection between the two problems, coincidence maybe ?

Sorry, maybe someone else has a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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Tony, it idles back back down to 950 in neutral or in gear. The idle is good either way. But in neutral if you ease the throttle it will not go 950-10-11-12-1300 it will get to1000 then jump to apx 1300 or faster if I twisted it more. But in gear I can ease the throttle 950 -10-11-12-1300 and on up with no 2-300 rpm jumps. I thought maybe it had some sensor that opened vacuum or some thing?? ...Thanks......gary
 

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I'd suspect a little clutch drag then, get at changing that fluid.

Get youself a "Miteyvac" hand vacuum pump and work from the slave cyliner bleed, while your "Lovely Assistant" keeps the Clutch Master Cylinder topped up.

Make sure and place absorbant material below the M/C as brake fluid and paint should never meet one another.
 

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Thanks again Tony but not sure I want the better halfs help. Her and the brake fluid would probably make the blue wing look a little wrinkled :goofygrin:..........Gary
 

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Gary, this could be due to a sticking slider. Pull the air filter cover and filter and get your fingers into the carb bodies and see if the plastic sliders move easily. On older 1500s especially they can get sticky. Spray them up with WD40 and this should stop the revs from staying up. The WD40 fix usually lasts for a couple of months. Otherwise its a carb stripdown for a permanent cure. Honda did a recall on the 88-89 carbs for this and other problems, not sure abput the 90.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
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GWNorman wrote:
Gary, this could be due to a sticking slider. Pull the air filter cover and filter and get your fingers into the carb bodies and see if the plastic sliders move easily. On older 1500s especially they can get sticky. Spray them up with WD40 and this should stop the revs from staying up. The WD40 fix usually lasts for a couple of months. Otherwise its a carb stripdown for a permanent cure. Honda did a recall on the 88-89 carbs for this and other problems, not sure abput the 90.
Norman my idle works OK now. The only problem now is a stagger. If I am setting in neutral and give it a little throttle it will jump from about 1000 to 1300. And if I am idling along in 1st or 2nd gear and give it throttle it will do a short stagger then take off. The bike runs good down the road. Its a 1990 GL 1500 with 39k on it. Other than the stagger the bike runs great. Thank you for the reply and advise......Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
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Tony, you hit the nail on the head. Sure wish I could figure it out. I've tried everything except Sea Foam and I guess that will be next???....Gary
 

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Mine did that real bad until this year.

Carbs had been serviced by shops multiple times, did it once myself on my mechanics advice.

Anyway, anytime i'd pull in the clutch in lower gears, it'd stumble, fall on it's face then in a few seconds regain composure and all I'd have to do is brace myself in anticipation.

I probably had more problems than you may have, the biggest I had was the torn disphragm in the vacuum operated petcock. I also had a few small vacuum leaks, old age and heat are tough on vacuum lines.

So I stripped all the plastic off, from the shelter down. Spayed a little carb cleaner around, noted where the idle seemed to be affected (seemed like everywhere) and replace or cut the ends off to viable line. Then I replaced the vacuum petcock. Finally I noted the sticking vacuum piston in he carb and freed that up with a little carb cleaner and WD-40.

Now it runs like a champ, pulls top gear from 25 MPH without a shudder or hesitation.

I still find myself bracing for the "stumble" but it doesn't happen anymore, have to unlearn that habit, but it had that problem for 4 years until I had to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
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I've only had this wing about two weeks and it seems every time I buy something used it takes a little while to get the bugs worked out to suit me. The bike really looks and runs good, except this problem and those weak front forks. I am taking all the hints and advise and before long I'm going to have it running right like my 1200 does..Thanks for the help and I certainly enjoy this site........Gary
 
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