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Recently someone here posted an ebay listing number for some sync guages on ebay. I cant find that listing. Do you still have it?

Can you please re-post it?

Thanks!:clapper:
 

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Can anyone tell me the difference between the dial-type guages (such as these from ebay) and mercury-type gauges (like those from motion-pro)? Any preferences one way or the other?

-hossners

'81 gl1100i
 

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Mercury manometer type are more accurate, but can lose mercury down the intake. Vacuum gauge type not quite as accurate but more robust. Kind of like comparing a balance scale with a spring scale. Both are accurate enough for the job.
 

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hossners wrote:
Can anyone tell me the difference between the dial-type guages (such as these from ebay) and mercury-type gauges (like those from motion-pro)? Any preferences one way or the other?
hossners, probably the biggest difference is in the gauge dampening & secondly the cost.

Mercury sticks or tubes are pretty well self dampening & cheap to manufacturer.

Vacuum gauges get expensive to make both accurate & dampened. You can add small valves or even pinch the vacuum lines to dampen the vacuum gauges though.

On my personal balance gauge set-up I only use one gauge with a series of individual valves to open any of the 4 carb fittings to that gauge. That way I know I have the exact base gauge reading to balance to. The gauge I use is a high dollar fluid dampened gauge.

Twisty
 

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I found the guages. Thanks,

I also checked with my trusted auto mechanic, and found that he does bikes as well. Being a family friend, I trust him. He says he will balance my carbs for $50, so I am going to do that.
 

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ubarw,

lets hope getting your carbs setup sorts out your idle speed and noisey engine,

fingers crossed
 

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As long as I have it at Bill's, what else do you recommend I have done? Timing, plugs, etc., for sure...
 

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you could, depending on when it was last carried out,

change the oil and filter (try 20/50w oil see if that quiets the engine)

change the fuel filter and have the one in the tank(fuel tap) checked and cleaned (partial blockage may cause lumpy running)

Get the crankcase breather hose's and receptors cleaned

check the vaccum hoses are in good condition

clean/change the air filter

check the induction rubber hose's to the carbs for cracking/splits (air entering here will give a weak mixture)

another simple one that has just come to mind, have the fuel tank filler cap checked, make sure the small vent in the capisn't blocked
 

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ubarw wrote:
As long as I have it at Bill's, what else do you recommend I have done? Timing, plugs, etc., for sure...
ubarw, in addition to the list that JOHNOgave you I would highly recommend a pilot screw idle drop adjustment. If those carb pilot jets are set too lean or out of correct adjustment your engine will not idle correctly, or accelerate from idle correctly.

Twisty
 
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