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I have read the procedure for the 1100 but I have the 1200 and only two gauges. I have read that #4 is the base cylinder for the 1200. Which cylinders follow in sequence?
Could someone steer me in the right direction so I won't be trying to pull my hair out. BTW i'm bald. I'm having a hard time finding the hose nipples in metric size. Any help appreciated.

oldmanonavtx
 

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Similar for the 1200. Balance the two carbs on the left and then the two on the right. Once you have done that you just need to balance each bank and use carb 4 as the marker.
 

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You'll need at least two (four are handy) 5mm sync nipples to connect to the intakes. Below is a link to Bike Bandit who are among many who sell the things.

http://www.bikebandit.com/product/1778
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
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Lets see now. Four times seven dollars and sixteen pennies = Twenty eight dollars and sixty four pennies plus shipping to my side of the country for four little hose nipples. Dang, I wish I could afford to get in that business. I'll do something else, thank you any way.

oldmanonavtx
 

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I've made sync adapters by drilling through a short 5mm screw. The easiest way is to drill a hole in a piece of wood so you can screw the screws into the wood making threads in the wood as they go. Screw them all the way down until the head is flush with the wood. Drill a small hole down through the screw, a Phillips head screw works best because it automatically centers the drill bit. Once you have a hole lengthwise through the screw just grind off the head so you can slip a piece of vinyl tube over it to connect with your vacuum gauge. You'll need a valve in the line between the carb and gauge, I use plastic aquarium valves or drip irrigation valves, both are very inexpensive. You'll need the valves to reduce the needle flutter when syncing. Befor using the gauges it's best to check their calibration. Hook both gauges up with a plastic T fitting so that you can apply vacuum to one tube feeding both meters. Just apply a vacuum to the tube enough to bring the needles up on the gauges 1/3-1/2 way. If the gauges read differently stick a piece of masking tape on one of them with a correction factor and add or subtract that factor from your reading when you balance the carbs. That way any error in the gauges will be compensated and not effect the outcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
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Thanks Phatty, but I believe I can make a set of those without to much trouble. Nice of you to offer.

Oldmanonavtx
 

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Ok, I have read and heard those same instruction on how to sync a set of carbs, only thing is I could never figure out how to do it. I sync number 1, 2, and 3 to number 4. Never seen a screw that brings a bank into sync with number 4.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
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Yep. My 1200 sure dosen't have one. I think the directions are not exactly clear.

oldmanonavtx
 

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There is no right to left bank balance on the 1200. Either #3 OR #4 is the base carb with no sync screw and the other three carbs are set to it. The screw in the rear center of carbs is the idle screw only. The 1200 is much easier than the 1100's I think. Only 3 of the carbs have a sync screw and there are no locknuts, just a screw with springs under them.
 

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There is one screw on the left bank (as you sit on the bike). That is the #3 (left front) carb and you balance that to the #4base carb. (left rear)

Then use the front screw on the right side to balance #1 (right front) carb to #2 carb. (right rear)

Then use the right rear screw to balance the sides. #2 & #4.

Any other proceedure is wrong and you will never get a good sync.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
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Hey Dennis,
Is the way the cylinders are numbered different from the 1100 and 1200. The diagraham I have seen here has rf as #1 and rr as #3. Lf as #2 and lr as #4. Is this not right?

oldmanonavtx
 

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oldmanonavtx wrote:
Hey Dennis,
Is the way the cylinders are numbered different from the 1100 and 1200. The diagraham I have seen here has rf as #1 and rr as #3. Lf as #2 and lr as #4. Is this not right?

oldmanonavtx
The order I described is for a GL12. That is what you are working on, correct?

Sorry, I don't know about the 11, but I've read on this site that it is different.
 

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Sitting on the bike, #4 is your base carb and is on the left rear, no screw on this one. First, adjust #2 carb (left front)to #4. If you only have two gauges, then move the one off #2 over to #1 (right front) and set that one to #4. Then, move the one over to #3 (right rear)and set that to #4. Re-adjust idle speed atcenter rear of carbs. Like I said, this is different than the 1100's. Keep in mind, if your carbs all read within 1.6 in. Hg, you don't need to set them. Make sure you get the flutter out of the gauges or you will only be guessing. Again, there is no left to right setting on the 1200, only 1, 2, & 3 set to #4. Hope this helps. Paul
 

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That's how I set mine. I heard and read instructions that said to bring the bank into sync, it ain't happening with the 1200. Four screws on mine, #1, #2, #3 and then the idle screw.
 

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It may be a good idea to geta new mercury setup, or take the bike to a mechanic that knows GL12s. With 2 guages, if you follow the wrong procedure the #1 cylinder will be out of sync with the other three.

The #1carburetoris mechanically linked to #2. The procedure I described is the only way tobalance the #1with the #4.

Look at the way the carbs are linked. Left and right #2 & #4 are linked to adjust side to side syncronization.

Syncing the carbs is mechanically setting the butterflies to open evenly and simultaneously. The amount of vacuum a carb draws is how you determine the position (size of the opening) of the butterfly in that carb.
 
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