[gene-o]

imported post

I was trying to get my carbs sync'd and had no problems until I got to the number 4 carb. If I get it to match the other 3, the throttle won't return to idle like it should. It idles high for several seconds and then finally drops to around 2k rpms and then stays.

 

[DaveO430]

imported post

What is your method? Do you have a 4 carb set or 2 gauge, single gauge or other system?

 

[Bagmaster]

imported post

These are the instructions I use to sync the 1100's and the 1200's. Only difference is on the 1100's the #3 carb is the base carb and on the 1200's #4 is the base carb.

On the 1100's as well as the 1200's, carbs are setup as No.1(rigt side front), No.3 (right side rear), No.2 (left side front), No.4 (left side rear). As seating on the bike facing forward.


Carb No.3 is the base line carb all the others are adjusted to, it has no adjustment screw to mess with.

1. Using adjustment screw between No.3 and No.1 adjust No.1 to match No.3.
2. On the left side use the adjustment screw between the 2 carbs to match No. 2 to No.4.
3. Using the adjustment screw at the rear of No.4, match the left side carbs to the right side carbs.

Keep in mine that the idle may go up some during adjustment and you may have to adjust it a couple of times during the procedure. Keep the idle between 900-1000.

All of the above is based on you already knowing and having the sync gauges already connected to the system and the engine at normal operating temp.

These instructions work very well if you're using a 4 gauge setup.

 

[gene-o]

imported post

I have a 4 gauge set but one adapter broke so I can only use 3 at a time.

 

[DaveO430]

imported post

That should work fine if you have checked the gauges all on one carb to be sure they match and actually using only 2 if you can't use all 4 may be better. If you synch #1 to #3 then #2 to #4 then #4 to #3 it should work out. The main idle screw might have to be adjusted afterward if they are way out of synch then recheck synch.

 

[Wichita Scorpion]

imported post

I had the same problem you are having. The PO apparently had misadjusted the carbs way out of range before me.
The following is a post I made in November 2007.
On my 1983 GL 1100A, when I removed the arm at the #4 carb (thatcomes across from the 1/3 side), itwould just slide on and off with no pressure. This indicates that the 2/4 carbs are in the closed position. We got the same results you stated about adjusting the screw one way would increase the idle and no change to #4 vacuum. With the 2/4 carbs butterflies closed, the adjustment made the arm move back toward the 1/3 side increasing idle. I may be wrong but I think we were, and you are, working in a range of adjustment that won't give the desired results without a lot of back and forth between engine idle screw and #4 adjustment screw.

With the engine off, at the#4 carbremove the cotter pin and slide the arm off. Don't lose the washers. Adjust the screw at #4 carb (I think counterclockwise) so that when the arm is placed back on the shaft the 2/4 carbs open some. If you watch the pin that the arm connects to, it should move toward you. On mine, at the pin to arm connection,the leverattached to#4 had to moveabout 1/16 inch to fit on the arm opening the 2/4 carbs butterfly. Replace arm, washers, cotter pin, start engine and check if desired adjustment can be made.