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Carbs need it be set up but Iwould like too synro them myself is there someone out there that has done this at home with a home made tool as I would like too save the cost of ladour. The carbs were redone 15,000 miles ago
 

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If you do a search you will find a lot about it. I am sure there have been pictures and descriptions of homemade manometers too. If you don't want to search have a look in the index.
 

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Interesting to see that link on here. I'm the originator of the powerchutes.com site.

Q
 

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And I invented the internet. well actually it was ALGORE and me.:D
Sorry, I just couldn't resist.


Well, someone had to do it, might as well be you.
 

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I read so many posts regarding carb synching. What is the major impetus for carb synching? Why not try a simpler solution if the bike runs or idles rough like a Seafoam treatment regiment? Are too many riders influenced by all the carb synch rhetoric and skipping simpler solutions. I believe in the K.I.S.S. theory.
 

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I'll Probably get shot down by the purists for this, but here goes. I have always done my carbs by ear, a length of tube thats end will fit in your ear,and hold the other end at the air intake to each carb. You will hear the different sound of suction at each carb. then adjust accordingly using the non adjustable carb as your benchmark. You'll be suprised at how accurate you can be.
 

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OMG Paul I am sorry I induced you to speak such a thing on this forum! Put on your kevlar and take cover.:cheeky1:
 

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Thanks for the warning Jim have also donned the full face helmet ready for incoming.
 

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I certainly have no "incoming" for you. On my Jaguar 420, I sync it by ear. Some of the most talented mechanics I know sync by ear.

On the GL-1200, tho, I have a hard time keeping the 4 carbs in memory, and sync it with a MotionPro syncPro tool.

Remember: The GL-1200 manual says to sync every 8,000 miles, and I've often found that it's worthy of "touch-ups" quite often.
 

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paul1 wrote:
I'll Probably get shot down by the purists for this, but here goes. I have always done my carbs by ear, a length of tube thats end will fit in your ear,and hold the other end at the air intake to each carb. You will hear the different sound of suction at each carb. then adjust accordingly using the non adjustable carb as your benchmark. You'll be suprised at how accurate you can be.
Sounds interesting. How do you calibrate your ear?:D

Actually, I sync'd a friends carbs on his 1500 that was "adjusted by ear". His mileage dropped after the shop did carb work and sync'd by ear. I believe the specs for the differential between carbs is 2cm HG. When syncing his carbs...the differential between carbs at the start was 5cm HG. Now they are within 1cm HG. Not an audible difference in the running of the bike...but definetly better mileage.

I am not saying it can't be done by ear....and more power to you if you can. I am not a purist so I am not hurling anything at you. Who knows...the shop guy may have not been as good as you.
 

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Has anybody used or tried the carb-tune
on there wing here? I use it on my Royal Star
Venture a few times a year. works very well.
Jeff
 

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I've used the carb-tune II on my 80 GL1100, the tubes could be a bit longer imo. Didn't help the oil burning problem though :( but that's another story. I also use the carb-tune on my CB550, when warmed up it will idle at 500rpm if I would let it.

James
 

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I use the Morgan Carbtune II. I agree that the hoses should be a little longer. It would make it a little easier to reach.

I like the Carbtune. There is no guesswork as to whether the gaugeis calibrated or not andit iseasy to read.

A little expensive compared to normal vacuum gauges, but worth it IMHO.
 

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X2 on the Morgan carbtune. I just kept it hooked on the right bar grip and I was fine.

I cut the minimum 5 inches of the hose off to put the restricters in and it worked for me.

a little bounce in the gauges, but very managable.



My first sync was no big deal, after all the tupperware was off and the bike was warmed up, it was 5 minutes tops. Upped my idle about 100 rpm to 1100, I left it there since it seemed to help the driveline lash and gave me a little smoother clutch engagement. Low end is noticeably better. Carbs weren't that far off to being with.
 

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paul1 wrote:
I'll Probably get shot down by the purists for this, but here goes. I have always done my carbs by ear, a length of tube thats end will fit in your ear,and hold the other end at the air intake to each carb. You will hear the different sound of suction at each carb. then adjust accordingly using the non adjustable carb as your benchmark. You'll be suprised at how accurate you can be.
I think you could get a more accurate reading if you used your tallywhacker instead:dude::dude::dude:
 
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