Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

My bike 1982 Goldwing Aspencade. Mileage when I got it 28 to 31 mpg ave. Things I've done. put on new timing belts. newer stock exhaust old exhaust mufflers rotting out. vacuum's advance not working removed rear of bike( cleaned out fuel tank while rear of bike was apart)swing arm etc to get to ignition pulse generator. I found that the vacuum can was leaking. Got a used one it was bad also. I very carefully bent the lip up on the vacuum's can and found two small holes in the diaphragm it looked to be made of scilone (red) so I cleaned it up and patched the holes with red high tempscilone put it all back together and also found that I could remove what looked like a big rivet on the module which is threaded I used a dremel tool to make the rivet head to fit a 10mm wrench on the vac. can there is some stuff you can pry out and inside is an adjustment screw which is the advance limit. Now with the ignition thing all back on and a little fuel in a home made can I can fire up the bike and adjust the timing advance at idle so it is dead on and limit the advance at 3000 rpm. This is best done before putting the tank back on very hard to get to the modified rivet. made a timing glass out of a 3/4" threaded pvc bushing glued in a pexiglass window on the bottom of the pvc with J B weld 5 min stuff. I modified the pvc threads with the dremel so it will screw into the motor the pexiglass is on the bottom of the pvc bushing so you can see the timing marks better also paint the marks with brite red nail polish.I also rebuilt the carbs all air cut off valves were trashed. Mileage now is 36 mpg I've only been on one short ride to check mileage and some of the riding was in town I think it will be better once I get out on the highway.:waving:Norman
 

·
Postpubescent member
Joined
·
36,382 Posts
imported post

Sounds like you've got a good handle on it. It's specially satisfying when one can actually find something to repair and restore operation. Let us know how the mileage works out after you run a tank or two through.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
imported post

I didn't explain that on the timing to advance or retard at idle you turn the vacuum can the shaft inside is threaded turn one direction and it willadvance the timing at idle and turn it the other direction and it will retard the timing at idle then you screw the modified big rivet ( which is now a 10mm wrench headed bolt back in) this bolt is also pointed on the end which is why I modified it the point seats in the vac. can housing you will also have to get the vacuum can in the right spot cause it has only one indentation for the pointed bolt to go into. After getting the idle timing if you needto limit or allow more advance you turn the screw on the end of thevacuum can it is covered with some rubber stuff. After all the playing with it put a dab of silicone over the hole. This is maybe caveman repairs but why pay a dealer for the whole thing when only a part is bad and these things are not cheap. This repair has been working for the last 3000 miles I pull thevacuum line once in a while remove thecacuum line from the carb. and pull a vacuum on the line to make sure it hasn't started to leak again. It should hold a vacuum and not bleed off. Don't ask what or how to do that use your imagination Like I said caveman mechanics work for me. Norman
 

·
Senior Guru
Joined
·
2,234 Posts
imported post

Whatever it takes to keep them on the road Norman, as long as it's safe. Sounds like you really have a good idea of how to go about what you are trying to achieve.

Don't forget to check for dragging brakes and low tire pressures as these will also greatly affect your fuel economy.

Vic
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
imported post

The carb rebuild went very good took all jets out and used Berryman B-12 to clean all passages in the carbs and compressed air I didn't take each carb off of the log and when I replaced the air valves. They were stuck in the carbs and the diaphragms were rotten and holed out.That was the most time consuming part of the job I used Qtips and the carb cleaner followed by air to clean them I cheated onthe air valve cover screws and used a little pair of channel locks to get the screws out that I couldn't get a phillips screw driver onbut I didn't damage the screws. I know that might make some of you cringe but I didn't want to mess with the o-rings and gaskets that are involved with when you bustthe carbs off of the log I didn't have those gaskets or o-rings. My carb kits came with 2 different main jets 140 and 145 my bike had 145 in itand I used the new 145's I live at 3000' above sea level and was tempted to go with the 140's but didn't. I removed the float needle seats and fount that there is very small plastic filters there they were not dirty or holed out so I reused them. I reused the float needle and seats because under the magnifying glass they looked new no wear and I wasn't having a problem with them. I checked to make sure the float setting was at 15.5mm just to be sure they hadn't changed. The rest went smooth. Put carbs back on checked the sync. all with in 1"hg and as posted mileage is coming up. I think the air cut off valves were causing most of my rotten mileage and I didn't even know they were bad other than rotten gas mileage. I also replaced the accelerator pump while I was at it and the fuel filter. Norman
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
imported post

The carb rebuild went very good took all jets out and used Berryman B-12 to clean all passages in the carbs and compressed air I didn't take each carb off of the log and when I replaced the air valves. They were stuck in the carbs and the diaphragms were rotten and holed out.That was the most time consuming part of the job I used Qtips and the carb cleaner followed by air to clean them I cheated onthe air valve cover screws and used a little pair of channel locks to get the screws out that I couldn't get a phillips screw driver onbut I didn't damage the screws. I know that might make some of you cringe but I didn't want to mess with the o-rings and gaskets that are involved with when you bustthe carbs off of the log I didn't have those gaskets or o-rings. My carb kits came with 2 different main jets 140 and 145 my bike had 145 in itand I used the new 145's I live at 3000' above sea level and was tempted to go with the 140's but didn't. I removed the float needle seats and fount that there is very small plastic filters there they were not dirty or holed out so I reused them. I reused the float needle and seats because under the magnifying glass they looked new no wear and I wasn't having a problem with them. I checked to make sure the float setting was at 15.5mm just to be sure they hadn't changed. The rest went smooth. Put carbs back on checked the sync. all with in 1"hg and as posted mileage is coming up. I think the air cut off valves were causing most of my rotten mileage and I didn't even know they were bad other than rotten gas mileage. I also replaced the accelerator pump while I was at it and the fuel filter. Norman
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
imported post

Yes I have already checked the brakes front and rearfor dragging and they are not and I run my tire pressures at the max 32psig on the front and 40 psig on the rear. Thanks Norman
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top