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I pulled the carbs off my 1100, because of a possible stuck float, now that I have them off, how do I tell if a float is stuck? and what is the correct way to set the float?

After looking at all 4 carbs, the #3 carb float was the only one that was differant. The other 3 when you pushed down(with the carb assembly upside down) the float assy popped back up. The needle went down then when you let go the float would move back up a set distance, however on the #3 their is no "push back"

I am in new ground here, I have not done this before, I ordered new gaskets andneedles, just not sure on the float settings

Thank for the help!

Poppa Bear
 

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I had a problem on my 1000 and the float pivot pins were stuck on the float and the pin holders and would not let them rotate, you might check this....Good luck...Jack
 

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I have the exact same problem with my GL1000 carbs, re: pivot pins/pinions/float sticking and not allowing free movement. How did you solve this, 10Anthony10?
 

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I went the cheap and dirty way, I did not want toseperate the carbs (didn't think I could get them back together)

I took the carb bowls off and filled them wth carb cleaner and with the carbs hanging over the side of the work bench screwed the back on and let them soak over night. I gor the carb cleaner at Advantage auto or a discount auto parts store. It comes in a gallon can with a dipping basket in side.

My carbs were in really bad shape, I broke a float pin support off before I soaked them.... Good luck it worked for me....Jack
 

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Thanks, I dont want to try to take them apart either, only have 21k on the bike, soaking sounds good to me

Thanks again
 

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Hi Poppa Bear, soaking is a very good first step. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Has your bike been setting up long? This is murder on GL carbs. It may be necessary to rebuild them. If so, you should shop around for the parts you need on everything except the float valves. I would recommend sticking with mother Honda on those, there's just been too many problems over the years with the after market valves failing to seal. Now with that said I'll probably get blasted by the many who have used to after market units with success. Keep us informed of your progress and if you run into a problem, just ask, there is always a guru or two around.
 

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Actually what led to the problem was I rode the bike for a week in late March early April, went on the road came home 6 weeks later fired it up, and it was smoking then leaking what I thought was oil til I smelled it and found it was oil and gas. I had left the petcock on open but in the past I had hardly ever closed it.. The bike did seem to miss a little though the last time I road it. the plugs were ok but it took a little long to warm up,

QUestion?

This morning when I went out to work on the carbs I noticed I had coolant on the engine. It appears to be leaking from the tube going from the left head to the thermastat housing how do I fix this?
 

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You have to remove the carb assembly, and unbolt the crossover coolant tube at either end, and replace the gaskets on each side. Easy, once carbs are off.
 

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I've had the same problem twice with my '80 GL1100 (78K miles). You'd think I would have learned after the first time. I did some research on the web and found a web site (oldmanhonda.com) that offered some good advice on storage. I've followed the advice for two years now and the bike starts right up in the spring. The most important thing is to drain the carb bowls. The gasoline begins to degrade in a week or two. Varnish in the carg is bad news. Check out the old man.
 

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DoubleD

In the spring I drain the carbs , but even though the bike is in Rochester NY I ride in the winter when I can about the only month I dont take it out is in JAnuary. But as long as I can get out of my drive way and the streets are clear I take it out for short runs. Must admit though that I got into a bad habit of leaving the petcock on all the time\

Bear
 
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