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I suggest pulling the carb rack out again and double checking everything. If you have a compressed air source blow through the idle jets and make sure they all sound the same. Check the float height and make sure they're all the same. You do know to check them with the rack almost standing vertical and the needles closed but with no weight on the little spring in the middle of the needle? Make sure the idle mixture screws are all turned out the same. Last but not least bench synch the carbs. I use a drill bit for this.
From this point on it is just check and double check, measure and measure again. It shouldn't cost you anything but your time.
 

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The float level should be 15.5mm. I use an adjustable square to set mine. http://www.hscripts.com/freeimages/icons/mechanical/adjustable-square-clipart.php?pagenum=2
Do a search for randakk and read his website (DO THIS FIRST). He has tons of info and pics That show how to set the floats. I could explain but a picture is worth a thousand words. There is also a great tutorial on the naked goldwing site but you have to wait for your registration to be accepted.
The idle mixture screws do have the stop on them that looks like a flag, yes. You can remove the flag(stop) with some heat from a propane torch.
The idle mixture screws should be set at 1 1/4 turns out from lightly seated if the idle jet is pressed in (1980/1). '82 and 83s have screw in idle jets and I think the idle mixture screw is set at 3 turns out from lightly seated.
To bench synch assemble the carb rack including the linkages. Adjust the throttle idle screw (you may have to use a paint brush handle or similar) to open the throttle butterflies so that you can slip a drill bit shank or something similar between the #3 throttle butterfly and carb bore. The drill shank needs to just drag. Adjust the idle screw to open or close the butterfly so the shank just drags. Now without touching the idle screw do the same to #1 but adjust this with the linkage locknut and screw. Go backwards and forwards between the #3 and #1 carb and make sure they're exactly the same. Move onto #4 do the same until it's the same as #3, and then do #2 in the same manner. Check and recheck. It is time consuming and a bit tedious but well worth the effort especially if you're like me and don't like spending.
 

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Whatever works. :) I used something to space the idle screw so a drill bit will work.
 

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Looks like the first thing you have to do is locate and replace or repair the bad wire or whatever is causing that blue flash. It will be impossible to tune if it's missing because of something like that.
 
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