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ill drain the bowls in a lil bit and see what comes out. it was running bad and not idling before i seafoamed it though. with the seafoam i saw a small improvement. we actually were able to get it to idle after replacing the air cuttoffs but after the sync it is acting like it did when we got it running after sitting for years.

ill look into the blue flash....problem is i saw it happen twice in the span of 4 hours and i dunno how to test to look for it. i might have to go ahead and take it to the shop and hope they do me right.
 

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Goldwing carbs can be a monster pain in the ars :gunhead:

It took me 4 sets of used carbs off crapbay to build one useable set on a bike that had been sitting for yearsI have well over $400 and one big headache in a set of Goldwing carbs. Next time I'll leave it to someone that works on them all the time and remove all of the guess work

You may save money and a lot of pain buy swapping your set for a ready to go set ?

I would pop the seat off and look in the tank (clean it), replace the fuel lines and filter then try cleaning the jets out one more time. Use "new" O rings where the carbs mount, a metric sethttp://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91512 from Harbor Freightwill work fine

I would try 1 more time then go with the "ready to go set" if that did not work

If you see the jets are clogged you still have do-do in the system



If the bike has been sitting a long time pop the valve covers off an be sure your valves are moving as they should

The valves tend to hang up in the guides because of fuel and other do-do putting them in a bind

It may be your valves hanging open and fuel blowing past an open valve, a backfire without compression, just burning fuel without the pop of a backfire ?
 

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If the bike sat and you got a real good deal your troubles may be worth the investment in time and $$$$

If the Wing was parked because the stator went your troubles are the tip of a big ice burg

If you can get it to run as it is check for charge before you get too far $$$ into it

If the valves are hanging in the guides the heads must come off to clean them. Flat 4's are not happy if they sit with any kind of fluid in or around the valves
 

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Soldier on Damnit. From my experience, it's easiest to synchronize these carburetors if you have a vacuum indicator for each cylinder. when I adjust on #3, I look up and #2 on the other side is going up. There's too much back and forth not to know what's going on with each one when that adjustment is being made. A motion pro/sync pro has four manometers on a small piece of plastic. Good Luck.
 

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The blue flash could be leaking power from the spark leads. Really worth checking out your ignition first, since all carb problems seem to have been addressed. Spark plugs ok? Spark leads ok (do check resistance)? Coils ok?
 

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You can balance a CB350 twin by ear, but not a wing.

Damname, you can balance the carbs with a single 30 psi gage and 3 rubber stops covering the air holes. Actually, you need the 5mm extentions from the air hole in the manifold too.

Start with finding the vacuum on the back right carb, then move around the other three matching the vacuum. Pinch (by doubling over) the rubber hose to stop the violent pulsating of the gage.

Go around a few time matching the back right carb and you will be surprised how well it works.
 

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sandcastcb750 wrote:
You can balance a CB350 twin by ear, but not a wing.

Damname, you can balance the carbs with a single 30 psi gage and 3 rubber stops covering the air holes. Actually, you need the 5mm extentions from the air hole in the manifold too.

Start with finding the vacuum on the back right carb, then move around the other three matching the vacuum. Pinch (by doubling over) the rubber hose to stop the violent pulsating of the gage.

Go around a few time matching the back right carb and you will be surprised how well it works.
i have a mercury manometer x4. saber cycles has it on ebay for 36 buy it now! i will try the pinching and see if i can get a more accurate syncing. i ran into a problem with water finding its way above the mercury in the lines. the biggest problem syncing is it will not idle long enough to sync it so i have to have someone cracking the throttle a lil bit which im willing to bet throws off the sync.

first i want to check my electrical out. does anyone know what voltages and resistance i should be checking for and where to check?
 

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I would say saber cycle! Some have had no trouble with them. Try asking about their return policy or maybe ALMOST
ANY other question. They have blocked many for less than that. Many of their replies would be considered extremely rude, if they were better. All is good until there is a problem! Seriously do a search for saber cycle on this forum you'll be amazed.
Terry
 

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I've had bad experiences with women, but I'm still hitting from the same side of the plate. You shop where you can get what ya need, when ya need it, and for what you're willing to pay. "SC" is the yellow caution sticker before you press "Enter".
 

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Hey I havent dive bombed this one yet. My turn, my turn!! Lessee...if it's running lean, you can tell by spraying some carb cleaner (flammable kind) in the plenum when it's idling. If it speeds up, it's lean, if it bogs down, it may be rich. There are plenum gaskets between the plenum halves. If it's over rich, the gasket may be leaking (fuel)into the plenum. Well, that's the best I can do. The blue flash may come from eyestrain compounded by over consumption of adult beverages.
 

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chesapeake cheapskate wrote:
Hey I havent dive bombed this one yet. My turn, my turn!! Lessee...if it's running lean, you can tell by spraying some carb cleaner (flammable kind) in the plenum when it's idling. If it speeds up, it's lean, if it bogs down, it may be rich. There are plenum gaskets between the plenum halves. If it's over rich, the gasket may be leaking (fuel)into the plenum. Well, that's the best I can do. The blue flash may come from eyestrain compounded by over consumption of adult beverages.
I've heard of a problem that sounded like a little man with a hammer,and the solution was, took hammer away from little man, maybe he's got an acetylene torch now.
 

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My FOIL hat left my head and is hiding in the closet, I think it knows I recycle :D



Buying stuff or building stuff, some like that new car smell, some like the funny headlights on an 1800 :p

If your going to mess with old stuff and have a pocket full of money or plan on doing it for a living you can justify the expense

If you do not know what you have it may be a good idea to back up and take a good look at what you have and what you will have in it when it is all over

An old Wing can be a money pit, be careful

There is more free information about "how to" on this site than any other. Many of the members here have shared their experience and found ways to cut corners, save money on just about everything Goldwing

A wooden stick with some clear tubing and a little fluid will cost you 5 to 10 bucks top (I thave $3.00 in mine) and when your done you can forget about it. I find it hard to justify the expense when I’m only going to use a tool like that once as year :baffled:

I ride a motorcycle, I do not worry about the rain and when Iget a skip or a miss I do not tear the thing apart looking for something that is not there, it is a 30 year old machine. If it wants to smoke it's old enough :(everything has a bad day

If you want to break down and split hair over carbs on a 30 year old machine your gonna spend some money. One at a time vs all 4 at once is kind of silly when you take a step back and look at the end result. I guess it is all in the word "nano"

Why put a pair of $300 shocks on a bike when $35 and a little time will do just about the same thing? See we are splitting hair again

I urge you to take a look at all of the information available and make an informed decision

Good luck with your decisions, I hope they serve you well

:waving:
 
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