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I put everything back together yesterday, carbs back on after the Randakk kit. The kit is worth every penny, great information on how to do the whole process plus the info on his website. Did the tank with the POR-15 kit I already had the cleaning solutions from doing some work on a car frame. Replaced the thermo switch with the Geo Metro from the salvage yard $5 with the plug. Synced the carbs the fan cycled on and off during the process which it never did. Went for a ride after and I never thought that a motor could sound so different so many noises are gone it is unbelievable and smoooooth.

Many thanks to all whoshare informationon this forum to get me to this point.:action:
 

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yes sir--when there all doing there thing--it do make a big differance .
 

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You might want to run the Geo thermo switch through a relay. I've never been able to establish how many amps the Geo switch would take.

The fan draws about 4 amps & the original Honda thermo switch was rated for 7 amps.
 

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cycleman wrote:
You might want to run the Geo thermo switch through a relay. I've never been able to establish how many amps the Geo switch would take.

The fan draws about 4 amps & the original Honda thermo switch was rated for 7 amps.
Why run a thermo switch through a relay? All it does is pass current through to ground in this case so the fan will run. It doesn't draw current on it's own.

The Geo thermo switch has been used by others on this forum without a problem and without running it through a relay.
 

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The issue over relay and no relay has gotten a lot of chatter on this site. The main reason you put a relay in a circuit is to protect the switch. Switchable relay co $ 6 verses switch @ $40.

The standard Honda Thermo Switch was rated for 7 amp and the fan draw was about 4 amp. The wire on the original switch is of a bigger gauge therefore indicating that it was capable of handling more load.

I've never been able to establish what the car type thermo switches are rated for but they are all run through a relay. With a switchable relay you can limit the power draw to the thermo switch to 1 amp not 4.

They will work either way but I would think the switch will last longer with a relay than without. The current draw from the fan is passed through the thermo switch to ground. It completes the circuit. If you check the how to portion of this site there's a ton of info on this topic.
 

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cycleman wrote:
The issue over relay and no relay has gotten a lot of chatter on this site. The main reason you put a relay in a circuit is to protect the switch. Switchable relay co $ 6 verses switch @ $40.

The standard Honda Thermo Switch was rated for 7 amp and the fan draw was about 4 amp. The wire on the original switch is of a bigger gauge therefore indicating that it was capable of handling more load.

I've never been able to establish what the car type thermo switches are rated for but they are all run through a relay. With a switchable relay you can limit the power draw to the thermo switch to 1 amp not 4.

They will work either way but I would think the switch will last longer with a relay than without. The current draw from the fan is passed through the thermo switch to ground. It completes the circuit. If you check the how to portion of this site there's a ton of info on this topic.
Now that makes sense to me as to why you suggested it. I'm glad you didn't think I was coming off as a smart azz or something as I really wanted to know what the reasoning was that you suggested it. Thanks. :action::action:

Maybe some one that owns a Geo will someday chime in on the max amp draw for that switch, gotta be some info on it somewhere.
 
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