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I'm cleaning all the Shagnasty off these Carb Pipes from an '81 GL1100, and was wondering what to spray them with after all the labor is done. Is there a Clear Coat that won't turn yellow from the heat?
 

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when i had my 81 1100, i used a two part home-brew method to paint the engine parts.
after bead-blasting the old paint off, i would paint the parts with Krylon aluminum paint. once dry i would give it two coats of Krylon clear.

this process worked great for me.

Robin
 

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I get decent results polishing the intake runners with a buffing wheel, degreasing and dewaxing with acetone or alcohol and then spraying with Duplicolor rattlecan clear coat. The clear coat dulls the mirror appearance of the aluminum but not much. If you rub out the clear coat and do three or four coats it looks better. For longerlasting results you can use a two part Urethane clear coating.

Leaving the polished intakes bare and waxing them often looks shinier and can keep them looking pretty decent but requires a lot more attention.
 

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I used graffiti remover to remove the clearcoat, then polished them with Simichrome and a bench bonnet.

Mike
 

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Hey Mike,
I'm still having problems setting my floats on my 78 gl1000, I was wondering if you could read my latest thread and offer any advise. I went out and bought 3 K&L carb kits from the Honda dealer locally, and one Napco from another. thats all I could get locally. Anyway I cant seem to stop the flow of gas into my intake manifold no matter how i set the floats. I have rounded the tangs pretty well and they seem to be pushing straight up against the needle.. going crazy here.. any advise would be greatly appreciated.
:baffled:
Patrick
Morriscatt
 

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I've had problems with aftermarket float valves on the 1100s. I believe Randakk when he says only the OEM valves from mother Honda work well. I had a set of K&L (I think it was) that didn't want to seat even after polishing the brass seating area. I could get them to stop the fuel flow only by setting the floats higher(further away from the carb body)than Honda specs. This isn't good since it changes the fuel level in the bowls.
 

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Johnnynogood,

Yes, there is. Wash the engine when cold, dry it off, and spray er' down with some "CD2 Engine Detailer". That's what I use on mine. For any rust, I use CLR.

Below is a pic I took of my bike about1Month after I got her up and running, and was washedarounnd 2 weeks eariler. (No Kidding about this) A few months later, I washed my Wing about 7 to 8 days before the Calhoun Rally. I did not even wash itbefore I went to the Calhoun Rally. I wish I had, but I just did not have the time.

CD2 give the Enging and Chrome parts a "wet"shine look, and it is needed about every 4 months,more if you do not wash it but rinse and wipe it off,which is not bad in my book.

Hope this helps,

Nightrider1


P.S. This is not a "Clear Coat". After cleaning, and drying, spray it lightly with the [email protected] Enging detailer. It will not turn colors either. (Make sure you follow the directions)




johnnynogood wrote:


I'm cleaning all the Shagnasty off these Carb Pipes from an '81 GL1100, and was wondering what to spray them with after all the labor is done. Is there a Clear Coat that won't turn yellow from the heat?
 

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I would recommend not spraying a clear coat on any of your polished parts. I polished mine and it is so easy to keep them looking good by re-polishing every couple of months. I use Mothers aluminum wheel polish and it only takes a couple of minutes to polish. No different that polishing the body paint. Tom
 

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The CD2 Engine Detailer is exactly what it is meant for, but it only tales a light spray, an a cold or slightly warm engine, out of the sun. Do not spray any electrical parts. Follow the directions. Keep them covered.

Thanks,

Nightrider1

jrward wrote:
Thanks for the replys. I'll send a pic of the finished product.
 
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