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Hello All,

First of all I hope and pray all is well with you and yours.

I have recently, and by recently I mean since this past Thanksgiving, been given a 1976 GL1000 in excellent shape. This bike has been kept in such good shape that the original tires are still good on it - 33 years old! (I did not mention but I work in a BF Goodrich plant and that is a very long time for a tire, not to mention an entire bike) Anyway, back to my problem, my Father-In-Law was working on this bike when he died in 2002 and since then the bike has been sitting, in gas, and correded the heck out of two of the carbs. I replaced the two carbs and cleaned the crap out of this thing, I was also dumb enough to think that the O rings wouldstill hold up but.......WRONG! Itcranks but it sucks so muchgas that it fills the crankcase in about 15 minutes with gallons of gas! So my questionis this, I have the carb off and apart, sitting inlightweight oil, but I could not find any 76 carb rebuildkits fora priceless than $150 even on Ebay, but Idid find some 77 carb rebuild kits for$89 - soI bought them - Will these kits work on my 76 even thought they are for 77 carbs? (Please keep in mind that thetwocarbs that were corroded I think were replaced with 77s, andif need be, Ican use some of the original parts since I cleaned them so good - I work in maintenance so I had a buttload of tools at my disposal!ie: sandblaster, tub cleaners,etc.)

Also, if anyone needs anything electronic repaired, I am an Electrical Engineer and I started my career off repairing circuit boards (PCBs) both through pin and SMT so if you have a board that you justcannot find anywhere let me know and I will fix it for you for the cost of the parts - I do not charge labor because I have found you make more friends by helpingpeople out not by screwing them over!

Thanks to anyone and everyone up front for your help and I anticipate your answers because I need them BADat thispoint!! I have invested too much time and money in this bike to let it go now!

Thanks again,

J



Attaced is a picture ofwhat my GL1000 looks like - The paint and everything else is almostexact - the bike was kept inside a garage with a cover over it for probably 15 years before my Father in Law and then 7 years after my Father in Law so needless to say, it is in good shape. I did have to sandblast the fuel tank to get the rust out but like I saidpreviously, I work in maintenance so I have that stuff at my disposal!!

Thanks again everyone and I hope you have aBlessed day!

J
 

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Some parts are interchangeable between the 76/77 carbs but the slides are different. Check the carb numbers and then go to the nakedgoldwing site to check & see what you've actually got. If they are a mixed up seat of carbs that you have I wouldn't waste any more time trying to fix them.

You'd be further ahead to buy a complete set of carbs from a 75-77 year bike & go from there. These year carbs had minor changes internally but matched the cam's. From what I've read the 75's supposedly the fastest but any of these years in good shaper would work well for your bike.

The 78/79 engines had different cam profiles & a smaller throat 31 mm instead of 32. They will mount & work but not ideal.
 

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Read this:
http://www.randakks.com/TechTip32.htm

and the whole site for lots of good info. Note the jets are different from year to year not all but some, so matching the right carb to the right year is a good idea. Carbs will work as a set from year to year but not as well as the original ones..you can even run 1100 carbs on a 1000 and visa versa.

PS nice looking bike...

Check the carb model number on the flange next the top cap..number like 755, 768a etc. should be all the same. Check randakk's list for specs and years..

Note the o rings will work from the 77 kit I think?? but not the jets. The biggest issue are the float needles and replacements are often leakers. Oem on that one part is best..again see Randakk's site lots of info

http://www.randakks.com/TechTips.htm
 

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1993 gl1500, 1976 gl1000
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ElectronicsDude77: Welcome to the site.

The rebuild kits for thegl1000 are almost the same. Except for the jets. You probably don't need to change out the jets anyway. The seals and o-rings are alike. The 77 will work for the 76. Be careful with the gaskets and seals with some after market kits. They are not all up to Honda standards. Especially the float valves. If, after you finish the rebuild, the carbs still flood suspect the float valves. Most people have gone to Honda original float valves. Rebuilding the carbs is something that has to be done correctly or you will be chasing grimlins and pulling the carbsevery other day tore-do. Also keep the parts to each carb together especially the slides (pistons). They need to go back the way they came apart.

I suggest you go to Randakks site and read all of his carb rebuild tech tips. Also there is a wealth of information at the Nakedgoldwings site. Welcome again. I am sure more will chime in.

http://www.nakedgoldwings.com/
 

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That is indeed a beautiful bike. Follow the directions from Randakks to the letter. Read and remember the part about removing the float and float pin. Big hammers do terrible things to carb bodies. The cams are profiled differently, as I understand, and the carbs for the '76 are slightly different than the '75 and '77.
 

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I want to thank you all for your help and suggestions. I am currently at work so I do not remember the numbers on the two carbs that I had to change out. Basically, what happened was the gas pretty much "ate" the pickups inside the float by sitting up all that time so what I believe my Father In Law did was find another carb with those two carbs which were good - they also had small amounts of corrosion but I was able to salvage them, the only difference that I can find between them is where the needle adjustment is on one set of the carbs the head of the needle screw is inside the carb and on the other ones that I replaced the head of that screw is on the outside?? I do not know about that one but everything else looks absolutely the same. The slides (pistons) are all fine and have no trouble in their movement up and down so I was not planning on replacing those anyway - this includes the brass needle that goes into the secondary jet to close it off - my biggest concern was the jets that actually sit inside the float. I actually cranked the engine but like I said it sucked that 5 gallon tank down in around 15 minutes and all I was trying to do was make sure that the engine components were getting oil since they had been sitting so long - all pistons fired as I adjusted the points to where they needed to be. I will post the number on the carbs when I get home or tomorrow since you guys are absolute experts! I am so glad that there is a site dedicated to this. I promised my Wife that I would finish this bike since Her Father began the rebuild so I am greatly endebted to you guys for any information on this carb rebuild - so like I said, I was just worried about the parts fitting especially the fuel pick up jets. (I apologize that I have a slow computer so I cannot go back and return here to get your name) I read a post where someone said that if this does not fix the problem then go ahead and buy new carbs? The cheapest that I have found these bad boys anywhere was some European place for like 900 Euros per carb so that would work out to be over $4G's for four. Do you guys know of another place that is cheaper?

Thanks again for all of your help and I look forward to helping any one that I can!

J
 

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Well $150 - $89 is like $60 bucks..? For that amount I would have bought the right kits

I've gone with Randakks $133.85 kits, He has so much pride in his craft and service I trust everything he sells.
 

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Yes you are absolutely correct but in this economy I am trying to save every penny I can! Even on my hobbies!

Thanks,

J
 

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Oh yeah, I have already been down that road! I actually found out the hard way but luckily I had a carb to replace it - I did, however, have to pull the entire assembly back apart to change it out, though! After that I started using a super small rubber mallet to get them out - they are all out currently awaiting the arrival of my rebuild kits.

Thanks for the info, it is good to know that someone else has had that problem before!

J
 

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Hey DD,

I appreciate the help! This is probably the stupidest question you have ever heard, especially coming from a person who "more than likely" knows about this kind of stuff. But I always was told the most stupid question is the one never asked. What do you mean when you say the "jets" and furthermore when you say that they will not fit and I should just use the ones that I have, can you tell me why?

I really appreciate your help and for everyone, if you ever need anything electronic repaired or advice on how to repair them please do not hesitate to ask - I am not saying that I will know anything because I am always learning about this crap but I will do my best to help out!

Thanks again and I am truly sorry if this is a stupid question!

J



PS - I am just worried about the parts that are stuck in the float - do you have a link about float settings and how to set the tang, etc? (My computer here sucks so it would take forever to download from that other site you guys are telling me about - I am sending them home where I have a faster connection)

Thanks,
 

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ED
Don't mix carbs with different numbers into the same rack. Randakks said this will create problems that will be nearly impossible to diagnose and solve. The plating on the AM needle and float sets often flakes off and leads to other problems. The floats must pivot freely, without hitting anything. A +/- one mm on the float adj will cause rich/lean condition. Terry
 

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Thanks Terry,

The only problem with that is I do not have a choice but to mix them!? Do you know of a source/company that sells the carb bodies themselves because I Googled them and it only came up with some place in Europe and it was crazy how expensive these things are!

Thanks,

Jeremy
 

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Well I got all of my kits in and they all fit correctly - I still have a few wiring issures that came up - I had to installa new "push" cable on the throttle since the other one was broken and I have not quite finished that.

Wish me luck and thanks to all who so generously offered their advice!

J
 
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