[plainmech]

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can someone tell me how to disassemble and clean these switches? 87 aspy. the radio channel select switch is tough to get to work, cb transmit switch you have to ease in for tx if you just push in it don't work. i've seen where many have done but not how to. thanks in advance marty:action::waving:

 

[bikgra]

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Go to Radio Shack and get a spray can of Contact Cleaner.

Spray it in the switches and work them in and out or up and down.

This cleans and lubes the switches and gets them working like new again.

Most of us use it and we get good results with it.

 

[plainmech]

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thanks, no disassemble required?

 

[wda-83wing]

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yes there is some disassemble reqired . works best if you remove the switch from the houseing and protect the plastic from the cleaner(fairing parts & paint ) and cycle the switch as you get the cleaner to it. you will be surprised at what comes out , i was . some switch just dont come apart and you have to settle for a good wash job with contack cleaner.

 

[plainmech]

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thanks wda don't see how to remove. pull placard?

 

[wda-83wing]

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plainmech wrote:

thanks wda don't see how to remove. pull placard?

:?pull placard? ?

 

[plainmech]

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the cover that lables the switches. i took the switches off but didn't see a way of taking them apart

 

[wda-83wing]

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i am afraid you are talking one thing and i`m answering another. my bad , sorry.

 

[plainmech]

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looks as though i have the ones that can't be disassembled so i'll spray work repeat see what happens:action::waving:

 

[WingMan71]

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Hey Plainmech,

It's a small world! I just finished cleaning my Radio/CB handlebar switches! Same bike... '87 Aspencade.

My CB push-to-talk button wasn't working and my radio mute button was flaky as well! Both tuner switches were sticky too.

Some time ago, I actually tried to disassemble the plastic housings that these switches are in but gave up for fear of breaking them. I'm convinced that the two halves of the plastic housings are glued together to help keep moisture out.

So I resorted to cleaning with contact cleaner and WD-40.

I learned something important in the process! The first time I tried just some contact cleaner. Didn't work. So, I suspected that there was just too much gunk inside those housings from 22 years of riding that I first needed to clean all that gunk out BEFORE I put the contact cleaner in.

So, last night I sprayed nearly 1/4 bottle of WD-40 into both switch housings from all angles; the front of the switches and the hole in the bottom of the switch housings. I left them sit and drain out overnight with a rag under the switches to catch the draining WD-40.

I soaked the heck out of those things until WD-40 was running out of the hole in the bottom. While soaking them I worked the switched probably 40 or 50 times each to help bust up the gunk.

Next day I sprayed the contact cleaner. Didn't use anywhere near as much as the WD-40 because I didn't want to mess up the plastic too much.

When that dried, I resprayed each switch with just a little WD-40 to help keep moisture from building up inside the switch housings again.

Success! All switches moving easily and working fine now.

 

[plainmech]

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thanks wingman i'll give it a try, tried just contact cleaner and though it helped it is less than desirable :action::waving:

 

[plainmech]

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Upon attempting to clean switch it quit working all together, at this point I had nothing to lose, I pried in the hole in the bottom and it popped open, no damage, when I disassembled the switch found a small phillips screw removing that allowed both switches to come out of housing. The transmit switch has two halves one side has 4 tabs the other 4 ****.Inside the switch is 2 very small copper slides shaped like this ] with two equally small springs underneath, a 3 rd spring for the button to return to normally open position. Be sure to have a clean floor and as many eyes as possible as you undo the tabs, also a white rag around the switch to catch springs and copper slides in case they should fly [ the switch is actually two switches in one with the other side not being used on my 87 gl1200a so if you lose 1 sring or slide simply assemble with the other and it will work:cheeky1:] for us older guys may I advise bifocals or reading glasses:cheeky1: [ I'm sure you can figure where this advice comes from:gunhead:] anyway once inside I found what I believe to be antique dielectric grease, carefully removing springs and slides and setting on white rag I sprayed each piece with contact cleaner individually.I reassembled mine without the grease as I was in hurry to check switch so I could cancel the one I had on order, but I will take apart and add the grease which I believe will make assembly easier as the grease will help hold parts during reassembly, again white rag and extra eyeballs. hope this helps someone, I don't have digital camera yet so sorry no pics, try to get my buddy over to take pic and load,I'm not good with that. Please feel free to pm me I'll help but it's quite easy. Thanks to all who posted with help to my question:action::waving: Marty oh yeah saved me between $50 for marginal switch to $200 for ebay switch

 

[plainmech]

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switch disassembly

 

[plainmech]

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inside the switch can kinda see screw

 

[plainmech]

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switch guts

 

[plainmech]

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poor pic but you kinda see dual switch with one side being used

 

[plainmech]

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contact side of switch, a little fine emery cloth goes along way

 

[plainmech]

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poor picture of the opposite side of contacts

 

[plainmech]

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put in dielectric grease

 

[plainmech]

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ready for reassembly, 2 small springs under copper contacts right and left, longer spring obvious