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I am wanting to change the brake pads on my '99 1500SE. I have the Clymer manual andit says to remove the left hand saddle bag to replace the rear brake pads. Is there another way to remove the rear brake caliper without having to remove the saddle bag? I don't think that the front pads will be too hard to replace. It looks like all that has to be removed is the rotor covers. I do not have a jack to put under the bike, so I am hoping that the center stand will do what I need to do. Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Cobra

:15grey:
 

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You have to move the left box out of the way to do the work.
I'm curious, how did you get 103,000 miles on it without changing pads before? Did you have the stealer do it the other times?

You can do it on the side stand or the center stand. You don't need a jack to release the rear caliper.
 

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Take the saddlebag off. Four bolts remove it and you can swing it back out of the way, without disconnecting the door cable linkage. Plus you can get in there and clean the road grim off the area. Everything can be done on the center stand.
 

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hi cobra the center stand is fine you dont need to jack the bike to chage the front pads but you will have to remove the saddle bag to access the rear no big deal.



GL1500 Front Brake Pads Replacement:
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/1500frontbrakepads.htm
 

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mikef wrote:
Take the saddlebag off. Four bolts remove it and you can swing it back out of the way, without disconnecting the door cable linkage. Plus you can get in there and clean the road grim off the area. Everything can be done on the center stand.
Mike, I find on my '89 at least that I have to loosen and raise the upper box as well to get the side box to clear coming out because the under cover for the top box is in the way. Especially if I want to save the paint job. One or the other. I find the under cover is such a pain to get back in right, that I do the box instead.

Also you have to remove the lower rear corner cover under that side box.

By that time it is a simple matter to unplug the lights and snap off the door release cable and get the damned thing out of the way completely.
 

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You are correct. Oops.....Too much celebrating last night.

I didn't need to raise the upper box, only remove the bottom cover (of the trunk).
 

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Ok, sounds like this isn't going to be a big deal. As to how the bike has 103,000 miles on it and I haven't changed the brake pads, I just bought the bike this last May, with 92,000 miles on it. You say that the saddle bag release linkage doesn't have to be unhooked? Also, has anyone a preference on brake pads? I have checked with Honda and the OEM pads are about half again the price of EBC pads. I have ran EBC on every other bike that I have owned and never had a problem. Thanks again for all the help.

Cobra

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Wrong side....................gear lube change anyway

I have the same pads on mine, but too early to tell how good they are. When the same guy auctions them off, you can usually get them about 10 bucks cheaper.
 

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Just wanted to thank everyone for their help. I did the brake pad change today, and had everything done in about 2 hours. Brakes were definitely needing changed. The right hand front and the rear were the worse. Thanks again guys for all the help and support.

Cobra

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I know that this is an old thread, but could someone please point me to a writeup on changing the rear brakes on a 1500? I searched but didn't find a good writeup. tia

- Jerry
 

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jblack5 wrote:
I know that this is an old thread, but could someone please point me to a writeup on changing the rear brakes on a 1500? I searched but did find a good writeup. tia

- Jerry
> Steps:

1. Put bike on center stand (optional)
2. Remove Under-trunk cover (Big U-shaped piece)
2.5 Remove lower left Corner Piece
2.6 Detach Cable, from inside of saddle bag.
3. Remove left Saddle Bag
4. Remove 8mm bolt on top of caliper, that holds the pad retaining clip.
5. Remove both mounting bolts to brake caliper... Separately break each of the free, then remove both.
6. Remove brake caliper. (Note: If you have to set the caliper down, do not hang it from the brake line... Instead, make a supporting hanger out of a piece of welding wire or similar)
7. Remove Pad Retaining Clip
8. Remove both pad Slide Pins
9. Remove both brake pads
10. Clean all parts (Especially the two pistons)
11. Push both pistons back into the caliper (eg To add installation of new/thicker pads)
12. Install both new brake pads, being careful to locate them properly into the Anti-Rattle-Spring inside the caliper.
13. Install both Slide Pins (Use a tiny amount of grease on the pins, prior to installation)
14. Install the Retaining Clip, and 8mm bolt that holds it.
15. Remove and grease the two Bushings that goe around the two mounting bolts. Re-install them, verifying that they easily move side-to-side.
16. Install the Caliper with two mounting bolts, torqued.
17. Pump up your rear brake pedal, prior to riding, in order to move the pads out/against the rotor.
18. Reinstall Saddle Bag, and Under-trunk Cover.


Edit: Added steps 2.5, 2.6
 

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ALEX BERECZKY wrote:
Steps:
1. Put bike on center stand (optional)
2. Remove Under-trunk cover (Big U-shaped piece)
3. Remove left Saddle Bag
4. Remove 8mm bolt on top of caliper, that holds the pad retaining clip.
5. Remove both mounting bolts to brake caliper... Separately break each of the free, then remove both.
6. Remove brake caliper. (Note: If you have to set the caliper down, do not hang it from the brake line... Instead, make a supporting hanger out of a piece of welding wire or similar)
7. Remove Pad Retaining Clip
8. Remove both pad Slide Pins
9. Remove both brake pads
10. Clean all parts (Especially the two pistons)
11. Push both pistons back into the caliper (eg To add installation of new/thicker pads)
12. Install both new brake pads, being careful to locate them properly into the Anti-Rattle-Spring inside the caliper.
13. Install both Slide Pins (Use a tiny amount of grease on the pins, prior to installation)
14. Install the Retaining Clip, and 8mm bolt that holds it.
15. Remove and grease the two Bushings that goe around the two mounting bolts. Re-install them, verifying that they easily move side-to-side.
16. Install the Caliper with two mounting bolts, torqued.
17. Pump up your rear brake pedal, prior to riding, in order to move the pads out/against the rotor.
18. Reinstall Saddle Bag, and Under-trunk Cover.
Thanks a lot!

Two questions:
Where are the bolts on the left saddle bag?
What's the torque for the caliper mounting bolts?
 

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jblack5 wrote:
Where are the bolts on the left saddle bag?
> First remove the Corner Trim piece (bottom/rear of saddle bag)... it has two phillips screws, each hidden under a trim-clip that must be popped off.
> Inside of the bag are four 8mm bolts... 2 on the bottom, 2 on the vertical wall.
> You'll also have to remove the white nylon clip, that connects the cable to the lock lever on the top edge of the bags... simply push up or down on it (depending on how it was installed), then remove it from the cable end, prior to pushing the cable/housing apart from the bag.

jblack5 wrote:
What's the torque for the caliper mounting bolts?
> I don't have a book in front of me, however I recall them being aprox 20 Ft-lbs
 
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