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:clapper: If you read the book it says remove the overflow tank and take the radiator cap off. Then drain the fluid and refill. Yea, right. They forgot to say there is a bolt that holds the overflow tank on and even if you get it off you still can't see the radiator cap. I foundan easier way is to remove the lower fairing panels, 3 or 4 bolts per side, then remove the seat, and then the fake gas tank. All together 10 bolts. Then remove the slave cly and overflow clip bolt and everything is right there. I didn't realize how easy it was to remove the fake tank. It seem I always take apart more than I need to but I'm learing.

Oh, my radio started working, then quit again. Which is better, a 38 or 45 to kill it?
 

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Yeah, so much for the book. Mine says the GL1200 hasa CDI ignition, which it doesnt. Clymer is OK to a point...

If you want teh easy way to chage it, remove the drain bolt and reach up underneath the fairing and pop the cap loose (not removed, just loose) to let the air in. Tank doesnt have to come off as I recall. Assuming youve small hands.

.45 will do the trick on the radio. One round through the cassette door. OR throwing it under a bus.!!:clapper:Try poking around in the left side faring, under the pocket for a loose connector. Round connectors on grey wires with red or blue tape. The amplifier is in there, silver box on side. Or maybe the connector on back the radio. I have a service manual for that series if you cant find the problem.
 

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You are right about that Jerryk. Even the rad cap is a pain to get at with the tank in place. I find it is actually faster to remove the false tank first, than to fiddle around and cut my hands trying to get at bolts. Its amazing how clean all the electrics are under the tank in spite of the bike being so old. It seems the tank does a good job of keeping the water away from the wiring under it.
 

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Thanks Dave,

:dude:Two things I noticed. It started working after I removed the false tank. Then after I put the tank back on, it worked for awhile, then quit. I also noticed that when I shut the ignition off, it would not keep memory. The stations that I programed in and the clock setting were gone. I suspect that I have a bad power connection or ground somewhere. I also think theclock has it's own power source. If you have a wiring diagram for the unit, I could use it. Somewhere in the mess is a bad wire. Thanks for the help.
 

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I assume this is a 1200? If so, with the tank off, very gently wiggle each wire going to the fairing connectors with a sharpened pencil. DON'T move the connector shells because that might "fix" it. They go fritzy cause some genuis at Honda PUT GREASE IN THEM (my pet peeve:X). They are a nightmare to fix because of it.

Removing/installing the tank flexes the inside wall of the left side fairing which torques the connectors.

If so, the fairing has to come off (not that hard) and you get to attempt to clean the greaseout of both the plugs and sockets then try to fix theconnectors. They will come out of the shells (very carefully) and can be re tightened. The connectors are held in a removable plate bolted to thefairing.

If its a 1200, the clock and memory (if aging memory serves) work through either the 3 or 20 amp blade fuse in the left pocket on the inside wall. They hang on a steel bracket.


Ps on radiator, drain and refill it through the drain hole, eliminates the risk of antifreeze on the paint and plastic.
 

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Hi Dave,

No it's an 1100 Aspencade. I will try next week to take the tank off again and trace the wiring and do what you said. Am I right that the clock has a suppurate power source, and does not use the radio power? What do you think the memory loss is from. Most radios have a suppurate power line going directly to the battery to keep memory.

On aseperate note, this forum is great. I enjoy reading some of the old messages. I've been working on cars and bikes since I was a teenager, however I don't consider myself a mechanic, just mechanically inclined. I thought my MGB and Austin Healys were fun. They only had three fuses for the whole damn car. If anything went wrong, stick a fuse in. Of course, sometimes they just caught on fire for no reason, but that's how Lucas Electrics are.

Jerry
 

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Id do the same procedure just with the correct wiring diagram, there is bound to be a pass through for the wiring. I dont have a copy of an 1100 wiring diagram that is fit to send you, mines all but illegible.
 

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Dave Campbell wrote:
Id do the same procedure just with the correct wiring diagram, there is bound to be a pass through for the wiring. I dont have a copy of an 1100 wiring diagram that is fit to send you, mines all but illegible.
Jerry, one of the fuses behind the left turn signal is for the radio memory (and I think also the CB channel memory if you have a CB fitted). Don't know which one but I know it's there as Ive seen this discussed before. Perhaps a loose connection in there somewhere?
 

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Thank you Martin,

I'll check it out. If will be happy days to get everything working. I still need to finish synchronizing the carbs. One thing I forgot to mention the other day was the coolant I used. It's called Spectro and it Hi Performance pre-diluted coolant for aluminum engines engines. It has no corrosives and the boiling point is 265 and freeze at -45. The shop I purchased it from says it's perfect for the Honda's. It's also nice that's it's pre-diluted so you just poor it in. It's a lovely shade of blue.

Jerry
 
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