Here, I use a few good mirrors (usually balanced on shop-rags or mounted to magnets) to look up as the bike sits on the table. Mirrors are really handy for the exhaust headers, seals, and those acorn nuts.
The tiny acorn nuts and studs are fastened to only 7ft-lb of torque (like "hand tight" or just less)... All you're doint when you tighten these is compessing the header-to-head gaskets which are dead-soft. Once that travel bottome out, you're at risk of snappin a tiny 6mm stud that will make you unhappy. 7ft-lb isn't much, and if you watch your force there, all will be fine.
The old gaskets (6 of em, if you're doing both sides) will be compressed into the head and will wanna stay there. A little work with a right-angle pick tool can spring em free. do make sure that you can account for all of the old ones (over time, I've "repaired" leaky exhausts by removing two seals and replacing with one new... "someone" left the old seal in there).
The outlet of the header clamps to the exhaust chamber - it may help to add a little penetrating oil to that slip-fitting or the clamp that holds it if you've got rust (not much of an issue here in the high deserts).
Lemme scrounge up a foto for ya (edited into theis posting) - I'll go scrape off an exhaust port to kinda show the gasket removal with a pick...
Dirty bike has 130K on the clock, and I'll clean it later( honest ): Photo is looking upward from the ground at the center and rear-most ports on the right head -- Quality is crappy and any shake is either me being old, or the mornign being 9*F with 14mph of wind...
The left port here still has it's seal in place, and the right port has had its seal removed... (you can kinda see the outside peremeter of the seal in the left exhaust port) I'vescrubbed a little carbon off of the port on the left and picked at the inside edge of the exhaust seal there. On first inspection these really do look like a little boss that's machined into the exhaust outlet. Photo is only to emphasize that you'll wanna get em out. A cheap pick like this short one works as would a smal flat screwdriver.
I find it very helpful to re-install the manifolds using a Split Ring Lock Washer on each stud... The advantage being, you can Avoid Over-torquing by simply tightening until the washer is (visually) crushed Flat... at that point, you've reached the Minimum amount of torque required for assembly, and won't break the studs off.
The other advantage is that, with use of a lockwasher, the chrome nuts become less prone to vibrating loose.
Okay, I have a related question for "el tres gurus." (I'm sorry Stan... i don't care what your avatar says... I think you and dusty should both be a gurus.)
When I replaced my rear dampeners I looked up the number on the OEM Cyclemax site. As I recall there are five. They were like 8 dollars each. When i went to the dealer he had a "set" number that contained all five and came in about half the cost.
My question is this... is there a similar "set" number for buying 6 of these babies?