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Hi folks.

I was contacted by my friend Whiskerfish,

who I know from NakedGoldWings

Hementioned that you could

do with a 'how-to' change timing belts.

I'd be more than happy to help a bunch of fellow Wingers

so here it comes:

---------------------------------------------------
Update by wingnut; Whiskerfishalso kindly gaveus the followingtutorialin PDF format for anyone who wants to download it. It's 700kbs file sizeand you canCLICK HERE to download it.
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This thread is for a 77 GL1000


NOTE:
Any reference to Right means 'right' as seen from sitting on the bike
NOT as you see it on the pictures

Any reference to Left means 'left' as seen from sitting on the bike
NOT as you see it on the pictures

The [T-1] mark means the T mark on the crank
under witch you'll find a [F] and the number [1 ]


What you need:
..a set of timing belts
part #14400-371-04/14400-371-14 for the early models
(later models 78-79 have different number ...mmmm???)
or alternatively Randakk suggests:
Gates #T274
NAPA #250274
Goodyear Gatorback #40274 (available at AutoZone and others)

..a 12 mm ring spanner with a decent 'offset' (more on that later)


...and maybe a set of 'tension rollers'
part # 14510-371-008
(they are about 60$ a piece (!!!))


Oh yeah; you need to remove the radiator...well not strictly,
but I wouldn't want to do this job without removing it...no way!




Remove front covers:




...remove spark plugs (you don't wonna turn the engine with the plugs in position.-)

...remove generator bolt cap

so you can get in there with your offset 12mm rings spanner.(This is where it needs to be offset)

This is the way the engine/crank will be turned during this procedure.



...remove timing mark cap

turn engine as described above until the T-1 mark aligns with
engine block marks (it looks a little 'out' on the photo. It's the angle)

AND (this is important)
the pulley marks aligns with the marks on the engine cover
like here on LEFT side (seen from sitting on bike..remember)


and

RIGHT side






[align=center]
[/align]
 

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....mark this position on the central pulley and engine block



...now release the tentioner bolts (*)


and remove the belt(*)



..when you do that(*)
the right pulley (photo-left)
will 'wander/turn' out of position
when you remove the belt,
as it is 'riding' on cam 'slope'
(witch is under the influence of the valve springs).
Don't worry:
one thing you can do to calm your nerves
and keep it in position:

put the new belt loosely over the pulley and

...holding the pulley in the CORRECT POSITION (marks aligned)
'strip' a spanner to the frame,

...do not use the spanner to turn the pulley. Use your hands
...then 'lock' it with the spanner.
(make absolutely sure you did not turn (release) the bolt)
 

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...release left tensioner bolts


..remove belt

..put on new belt

Check the tensioners or 'tension roller'.
You may think they are 'fine' : they 'roll' and don't make funny sounds?
You wont know until you've had a set of new rollers in your hands:
They should be real 'tight' as a set of new roller bearings...witch I think
they are, in fact.
If they appear 'dry' or make any sounds; re-new and get rid of that high pitched whining sound associated with 'dry' rollers.

..this is how they go in left side (photo-right)



and the spring attaches



...pulleys in correct position (both crank pulley and cam pulley)
...belt tight at the bottom
...tension roller loosely attached
(let the spring do the tension. On photo it is not on yet...ooops)


..check crank marks again



and check cam pulley marks again
 

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...attach right tension roller
(goes on like this)


and put on new belt

...check marks again

and re-re check crank marks


Now the new belts are on and tensioner roller bolts are not yet
tightened.

Now for 'adjusting' the belt tension:

LEFT side: (right photo-side)

check what mother Honda says:

NOTE: the spring pressure automatically positions the tensioner
...so no 'extra' pressure' on the tensioner before tightening the
tensioner back plate bolts!!!


..easy! But how about the RIGHT side with that cam pulley
being forced into a roll by the cam lobe.
Mothership Honda is not telling!

There's been much talk in the forum about how to get the
same tension on the right belt,
and now I've finally found the perfect procedure/explanation
in "Motorcycle Mechanics" magazine from February 1978 (!!!)
I that nerdy....or what?! ho ha

"To tension the right hand..[snip]..the engine should be turned
through 360 degrees and the little arrows on the
cam-wheels should then face inwards
...



...this is by the way, with the engine once more
positioned at "T1".
(*) You then do the same trick with
the tensioner
(and the spanner as per Honda) locking
it up after the spring has done its job
"

Voila!


(*) this might sound a bit confusing
but remember:
it takes 2 revolutions of the crank shaft
for each revolution of the cam shaft.


Now: re-check everything..all marks


Turn the engine by hand a few times

just to make sure the valves and pistons don't hit each other in case a mistake was made.




..and re-check



Do yourself (or future owners) a favor and mark down the
time and km/miles for the belt replacement



Check/re-adjust valve clearance
and check/re-adjust ignition timing


New belts CAN move the ignition timing a much as a few degrees according to Randakk.




Live happily ever after!





Best regards

Octane
 

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Thanks a lot Octane, excellent posting. That should help a lot of first timers. The only thing I could add would be a warning to turn the engine over twice with the plugs out once the job was finished just to make sure the valves and pistons didn't hit each other in case a mistake was made.


Hey Wingnut or Axe can we get this fine posting stuck into the Biker's Workshop page?
 

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exavid wrote:
Thanks a lot Octane, excellent posting. That should help a lot of first timers. The only thing I could add would be a warning to turn the engine over twice with the plugs out once the job was finished just to make sure the valves and pistons didn't hit each other in case a mistake was made.
You're welcome Exavid.

I've added/highlighted the warning.



Regards

Octane
 

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I agree with Exavid--an excellent write up with outstanding pics. Would be hard to improve on that.
 

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Ya he's pretty good for a foreigner:shock::shock::shock::shock:

All kidding aside Octane is one of the best we have on the Naked Forum and many of us rely on him to help solve our most baffling issues. :clapper::clapper:And when it comes to 4 Cylinder Gold Wing Trivia I challenge you all to stump him!! He may not have written the books but he has everyone memorized!:bowing::bowing::bowing:
 

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Very well done Octane.:clapper:

The only thing that I could possibly add is a measurement for belt slackfor guys like me that don't always trust the spring tension.

1/8" to 3/16" beltslack is just about right with the crank is at T1 andthe left pulleyat theUP position. After the leftbelt is adjusted you then spin the engine 360 degrees to get the UP mark on the right pulley facing downward then adjust the belt tension to the above mentioned slack.

That measurement is taken at the center point between the two pulleys and you just use two fingers to lightly flex the belt up and down.

Vic
 

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Hey Octane,

I got my wing this August. First thing I did was put new belts on her. With the aid of this forum I found the belts at NAPA and with the aid of Clymers and a Haynes manual I did it. I felt a sense of accomplishment. I changed my belts!!

Now you come along and show everyone how to do it! Thanks to your post, any moron should be able to change their own timing belts!!

Seriously, an excellent post! Thanks for sharing. I wish I had read your post before I changed mine. The notion of manually turning the engine over to make sure nothing hits - brilliant! Much better than pushing the starter button with crossed fingers. Fortunately this alternate technique worked for me and all is OK.

Thanks again:clapper::clapper::clapper:
 

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Whiskerfish wrote:
Ya he's pretty good for a foreigner

Foreigner????...who?...not me.

I'm Danish...everybody else are foreigners.-)



Thanks WF!

..and thanks y'all!



As to how this will work on later models, somebody else will

have to chip in, as I know very very little about them.

Regards

Octane
 

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puttitin wrote:
Excellent post indeed!!

Is it similar when doing it on a 81 GL1100?:baffled:
It is the same for GL1000 and GL1100. I used Octanes how to when I did my GL1100 a year ago and thanks to that success, I did my GL1000 when I bought it this summer.

Octane - Glad you postedyour how-tohere for the Steve Saunders gang. I know it took considerable time to create your post hereand the effort is appreciated. ThanX :clapper:
 

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I think this started with me making a joke about my friend Octane?? He is a Dane.No offense meant to any "Other" Foreigners Just him:D
 

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I'm a '57 transplant from SoCal so I "really" am a foreigner to the rest of the planet.

:p
 

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hi and thanks for your [how to] on the changing of timing belts. i noticed that the thread referred to the gw1000. since i have a 1984 standard i was wondering if these instructions pertained also to the 1200 standards.

thanx scot.
 

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hey vi, thx for your speedy reply. do you know if the napa belts 250070 can be used
for the belt/belts changing as i am about to plunge into that project.

changing oil can you use castrol synthetic 5-50 wt oil on the gw [wet clutch and all]
you hear so much pro and con on the oil subject.

thx scot
 
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