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That depends on where you live (subtle hint to put your location in your profile). In any place that stays above 50 degrees most of the year I wouldn't use 5 weight anything.

You realize you've opened up a can of worms oil what oil to use.

About the only thing everyone can agree on is to stay away from any oil that says it can extend your mileage or has teflon in it. Wet clutches have a real hard time gripping the plates with some of the additives they put in those types of oil.

Ken
 

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scot wrote:
hey vic, thx for your speedy reply. do you know if the napa belts 250070 can be used
for the belt/belts changing as i am about to plunge into that project.

changing oil can you use castrol synthetic 5-50 wt oil on the gw [wet clutch and all]
you hear so much pro and con on the oil subject.

thx scot
Napa 250070 is the correct number for the two belts you need Scot.

Regarding the oil, I haven't had good luck with synthetics in the older Wings so I stick with my favorite, Castol GTX 10W40 or 20W50 for motorcycles. I found that under severe high performance usage there was clutch slippage, but I will shift at 7500 RPM. Not many guys spin their Wings up that high so they would never notice any slippage like I would. With the Castrol GTX for motorcycles I have never noticed any clutch slippage. The other thing I had happen with synthetic oilwas a blown seal on the first cold start after installing the synthetic oil. After I did some research on synthetic oil I discovered that synthetic oil can build flow and velocityat a more rapid pace than regular oil because the molecularcomposition causes the molecules of the oil to cling tighter together therefore the oil impacts much harder against seals and gaskets uponfirst start when cold. Regular oil apparently has a built in cushion because the molecules are not so closely bound. There are advantages and disadvantages to each type of oil.

Comments about oils are a real can of worms. Some guys swear by the synthetic oils with the red caps and gold caps and purple capsand if that oil works for them that's great, but it sure didn't work for me.

So, you decide for yourself which oil you're going to use because it seems like no matter which oil is discussed one is bad and the other is a miracle then the next day the very same oil isjunk because another is supposed to be better.

Just use a quality oil that meets or exceeds the API standards recommended (SF or better)for your bike and remember the oil standards for your bikehave been exceeded many time over since your bike was new.

Vic
 

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I completely agree with you Guru,there is as many opinions about oil as guys disscusing it. I use 10w40 motorcycle castrol, no problems at all. But I dont crank my wing to 7500 rpm. Mathew
 

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Does it matter which way I turn the engine over?? That is , do I push down on the box end wrench or pull up on it?? Or clockwise or counter clockwise???

Goin to change belt's next week.
 

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Goldwinger:

I don't think I have to loosen the crank bolt!! Am I missing something here???

Your right about the Gen. bolt!! Counter clockwise would loosen it!!! DAH??
 

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i was awake thinking, the crank bolt? the transmission the brake.. in the manual it

shows turning the middle bolt tomove the engine to the timing marks at 3 and 9

o'clock. o'well will try again thanks for your help..



scot
 

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Scot, if you don't clearly understand all of the above instructions fullythen DO NOT even attempt to change the belts yourself. Guessing can be extremely costly. It could end up being much cheaper to have a shop change the belts for you.

From item one go over all of the posts in this thread and learn what each step means before you start. Understanding the relationship of the timing of thepistons to the valves is absolutely critical to the life of your engine. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ and heartbreak if done wrong.

Vic
 

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seems simple to do. [belts]i have a delorean 1981 auto and have rebuilt intake

manifold etc.

so this hopefully should not be too difficult. seems like a 1hr job minus removal of

radiator etc thx for your concern.

scot
 

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Years ago,a friend loaned me his Delorean while he went on vacation and I distinctly recall getting locked inside the car on several occasions because the electric part of thegullwing doors would not work and I couldn't even climb out the windows because they were too small. Funniest thing of allwas my son constantly telling me to make it go 88 miles per hour so we could go off into another time likeBack to the Future.

I just mentioned the caution because I have seen too many guys install their belts with the cam and crank out of time and it resulted in complete replacement of the expensive valves and some guides along with all the work of R+R on the heads and associated components.

Good luck with it and one hour sounds about right if you don't break any bolts.

Vic
 

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hi vic i don't plan on replacing any crank bolts or the like. just a straight belt replacement looks easy in the photo. will pull the cover and if "push comes to shove"and the damm things looks to complicated i'll bolt it all back and take it my local honda dealer. try rebulding a delorean intake system that is truly scary..



scot
 

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I seriously doubt that you would break a crank bolt Scot. It's thebolts in the covers that I'm concerned about. What happens is that folks overtighten those cover bolts then they bottom and seize in the aluminum. Best thing to use is a 3/8" drive impact gun and let it hammer gentlyuntil the bolt comes out, if it's seized. Twisting on a seized 6mm bolt with a long handle will almost always snap it off at the threads. Just feel carefully for any seizing before you start spinning those belt cover bolts off.

If you're talking about the Renault/Delorean intake you should be able to easily handle the timing belt change.

Vic
 

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the renault/volvo intake is truly a nitemare. i broke off 2 studs [rust] they have pipes on the bottom of the manifold that you must feel aroung for when you re-install the manifold plus removing the gas lines water pump distributor and the like is nerve racking so i can't imagine the timing belts would be much too difficult a project.. is there any way to readjust the timing on the wing?

p.s. a policy of mine. i never buy anything i can't fix myself.. within reason of course.
 

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If you're talking ignition timing there is no adjustment. If you're talking about camshaft timing there is much room for adjustment but you don't want to go there because of that valve/piston relationship thing.

I don't expect that you'll have any problems with the belt change. Just check, doublecheck and triplecheck all of the alignment marks before you spin the engine.

Vic
 

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hi vic, 2 questions. i have removed the timing bolts [holding the covers in place] i noticed i screw/bolt is much longer than the other 3 [total 4] do you know where this longer bolt goes? i was not paying attention the the sizes.left right inner outer ? also the covers are stuck on there really good is there a way to seperate these gracefully
or are there any more hidden bolts that i haven't found??

thx for your help

scot
 
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