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Hi. so what is the right way to turn the crank when replacing the belts on my gl 1200. With the # 22 offset wrench , or the crank bolt in where the timing belts are. Thank You. Ron
 

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jan.t wrote:
Hi. so what is the right way to turn the crank when replacing the belts on my gl 1200. With the # 22 offset wrench , or the crank bolt in where the timing belts are. Thank You. Ron
To turn the engine over I used a socket and ratchet on the generator bolt on the back of the engine. I turned the bolt like I was tightening it.
 

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I prefer to turn the engine with the crankshaft bolt, since it's directly connected to the pistons without a chain it seem more likely you could feel anything like a piston valve interference better.
 

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That would be easier too. I just followed Octains instructions and everything went well.
 

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Hi. It must be because the bike is a gl 1000 that octain used a # 22 off set wrench to turn the crank. With my gl 1200 I should be able to use a rachet wrench. Also my 1984 gl 1200 I removed the radiator, to get at the timing belts .The belts look in real good condition .but there is a 1/2 play up and down in the belts. Why can t I just loosen the tensioners bolts and tighten the belts up so I have 1/8 slack in them. Thanks for the great advice. Ron
 

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You could do that but do you know if the extra play in the belts is from misadjustment or maybe the belts have stretched over time? They don't cost all that much from NAPA and once changed you don't have to worry about them for years.
 

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Hi. I found the generator bolt and alligned all the marks up ,and actually then ,the left belt had very little play in it maybe 3/16 of a inch. But then the right belt had about 1/2 inch of play in it. I imagine if I turn the crank 360 degrees the right belt may only have 3/16 of play in it and the left belt will have more . My bike is a 1984 interstate with 37000 miles on it. Thanks for the answers. Ron
 

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THANKS for the help!

Let me add (or repeat) some things I learned/did on my '78 GL1000:

Requires 2 belts NAPA# 250274

Replaced the Thermostat while doing this, NAPA #101 (no gasket or sealer needed).

I didn'tneed an offset wrench, socket worked fine.

Replaced hoses, NAPA #7733 cut in half+/- and trimmed.

Get them hoses HOT (soft)before working with them (hair dryer, boiling water...) it will help with FORCING them back into place. If not replacing hoses, (or even if you do) then you may consider removing the bottom hose nipple from the water pump, it could save you a lot of cussing.

Put a towel over the front fender to prevent scratching.

And don't get the beltstoo tight, they WILL whine...

Position the timing marks carefully and take note of those postions. The LEFT and right wanted move a little on mine when the tension was released...

Now is a good time to clean the TB covers.

Later, Phil
 

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Sweet tutorial. Now I'm just hoping that since the right side pulley was off by about 10 degrees of the mark, before I fixed it, I'm not going to have to get new valves.
 

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How many teeth off was the belt? Normally one either way won't cause mechanical damage but 10 degrees sounds like a lot. Be sure to hand turn you engine to feel for any problems before you hit the starter. Hand turning slowly won't do any damage if you made an error but hitting the starter would bend valves. The best place to turn the engine over is really on the crankshaft pulley bolt. Since it's connected a lot closer to the pistons with only a connecting rod between the crank and disaster you'll get a lot more sensitive feel. You'll also have less leverage so it's less likely damage will occur if there's an error in timing. Be sure to remove the spark plugs too so you won't be fighting compression which will make the engine stiffer to turn over.
 

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It was 2 off I think, there wasn't any hangups or pinging when I was just trying to get it running earlier when I was hand turning the engine over before I started messing with the timing.

Now I'm just trying to tune it up and overcome backfires out the exhaust.

Next step will be to adjust the timing on the points and make sure it's correct.
Then make sure the carbs are synced up.
And if this fails....I'm thinking maybe the valves are leaking a little too much on the exhaust stroke.

For a 1978 GL1000 that's been sitting for several years that I just got a week or so ago it's coming along.
 

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If the backfiring is occuring when you back off the throttle it could be the air cut off valve(s) if the 1000 has them similar to the 1100 and 1200. Their purpose is to prevent backfiring with decelleration.
 

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Octane wrote:
This thread is for a 77 GL1000

Just out of curiosity since I'll bechangingthe belts on my 81in the next couple of days, is the changing procedure for the GL1100 different or include something I need to watch out for?
 

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Slow_Hand wrote:
Octane wrote:
This thread is for a 77 GL1000

Just out of curiosity since I'll bechangingthe belts on my 81in the next couple of days, is the changing procedure for the GL1100 different or include something I need to watch out for?
(bump)


I do not think there is much (or any)differences in the process...

Later, Phil
 

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does the belt change apply to the 1500 also, any changes????
 

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scadaman29325 wrote:
Slow_Hand wrote:
Octane wrote:
This thread is for a 77 GL1000

Just out of curiosity since I'll bechangingthe belts on my 81in the next couple of days, is the changing procedure for the GL1100 different or include something I need to watch out for?
(bump)


I do not think there is much (or any)differences in the process...

Later, Phil
Thanks Phil, you were right. Just like the instructions showed in here.
 

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just read that post on timing belts puts my mind at rest knowing that i can do the job(when i get my hands on one)
cheers john s h
 
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