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I forgot to add my thanks for the tutorial. I don't need it anymore but its a good one for those of you that do.
 

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What a GREAT Teaching, I Changed my belts 09-14-2009 and just took my Lap Top out to the Garage, and proceeded to change belts as I scrolled through the article.
It was a Breeze with this posting,,, GREAT JOB !!! That deserves some MANA !!

b679995 ( Steve-O )
 

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Thanks a million! This tutorial helped us out very well!
Beats the manual by many miles.
Thanks for taking the effort.
Greetz, P-J.
 

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Octane, I am a new member on this forum and new owner of an '85 Interstate. I found your writeup on changing the timing belts to be excellent in every aspect (narrative, pictures. etc.).



Even for a novice wrench like myself, it was a fairly easy job with the help of your instructions.



Thanks for the time an effort you spent putting this tutorial together. If I ever get the pleasure to meet you personally, I'll buy you a cold one.



Ride safe.
 

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I changed out my belts and I found a great way of holding the pullies in place so they don't move off their marks, I tooktwo 19 mm sockets andthey fit the holes in the pullies nicely I then took a small set ofwelders clamps and clamped it down to the back of the casing and to the center of the socket, be sure to use a small peice of vinyl siding to protectthe casingor apeice of 1/4plywood works. Don't put those clamps on the pulley itself, if you do you might have a wobbly pulley, the socket just keeps it from moving.before you clamp it down put your new belt in the clamps and just cut out the old one with something sharplike tin snips...place in the new..be sure to remove the sockets from the pullies when your done...Worked for me..
 

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littlebeaver wrote:
I changed out my belts and I found a great way of holding the pullies in place so they don't move off their marks, I tooktwo 19 mm sockets andthey fit the holes in the pullies nicely I then took a small set ofwelders clamps and clamped it down to the back of the casing and to the center of the socket, be sure to use a small peice of vinyl siding to protectthe casingor apeice of 1/4plywood works. Don't put those clamps on the pulley itself, if you do you might have a wobbly pulley, the socket just keeps it from moving.before you clamp it down put your new belt in the clamps and just cut out the old one with something sharplike tin snips...place in the new..be sure to remove the sockets from the pullies when your done...Worked for me..
interesting way of doing it:clapper:Thanks for passing it on:bow:
 

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Hi, here is another trick I dreamed up, if you don't want the crank shaft to move at all off your little paint mark at 12 oclockwhile changing belts then do this, clamp a vise grip on the bolt and rest it on the bottom cross bar on the frame and simply clamp another vise grip to the bar and to the gripand the shaft can't move so all three itemsall stay put and on their marks while changing.. be sure to place your belts on the shaft first then clamp it down...It makes changing belts easy...I tried using a wrench and thena socketbut there is too much play that's when I thought vise grips will have no play... use a piece of leather on the frame to protect it..Worked for me...
 

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Great info on timing belt change! (Octane) I got a question for you on cross reference numbers for Gates, auto zone, and napa well the fit 1986 gl 1200 interstate goldwind if not how can i find out what part number would work for my goldwing. thanks jotc48
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part #14400-371-04/14400-371-14 for the early models
(later models 78-79 have different number ...mmmm???)
or alternatively Randakk suggests:
Gates #T274
NAPA #250274
Goodyear Gatorback #40274 (available at AutoZone
 

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jotc48 wrote:
Great info on timing belt change! (Octane) I got a question for you on cross reference numbers for Gates, auto zone, and napa well the fit 1986 gl 1200 interstate goldwind if not how can i find out what part number would work for my goldwing. thanks jotc48
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part #14400-371-04/14400-371-14 for the early models
(later models 78-79 have different number ...mmmm???)
or alternatively Randakk suggests:
Gates #T274
NAPA #250274
Goodyear Gatorback #40274 (available at AutoZone
Timing Belts

GL1000 & GL1100
Gates - #5119 or #T274 (2ea.)
NAPA - #250274 (2 ea.)
Goodyear - #40274 (2 ea.)

GL1200
Gates - #5043 or #T070 (2 ea.)
NAPA - #250070 (2 ea.)
Goodyear - #40070 (2 ea.)

GL1500
Gates - #T275 (2 ea.)
NAPA - #250275 (2 ea.)
Goodyear - #40275 (2 ea.)
taken from ourafter market parks thread here: http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum9/22913.html
 

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Hey Octane at the start of this thread, in the pictures there is a spin on oil filter adapter....where can I get one of those for my 83 Interstate....thanks
 

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i am a newbie and i just changed belts on my 1976 wing gl 1000thanks to this forum it was very easy, thanks a lot Octane
 

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Thanks for the help, Very helpful! I have wanted a goldwing for years and Got Lucky and found a 1983 with 53,000 that jumped timing and bent the valves. Working on it now so I will be checking in often for info. Thanks again
 

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Great pictures and tutorial. Started the take down yesturday and your information will insure a problemless belt exchange.

Thanks,

water_rat54
 

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I also have to add a thank you. This whole post is what made me think I could do it. With a few additional questions answered by the folks here, I was able to complete the job and save $300-$400 that I was quoted for the shop to do it. Also, this is what I prevented by doing it...the pictures show one of the belts that were on. I have no idea why it looked like this but I think it would have been pretty bad had they gone completely. Saved me money from doing an upper engine rebuild also! Thanks again!



 

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This is the best tutorial on timing belt replacement that I have seen. This guy took the time to photograph each step, can't say so much for Clymer's or Chilton's (just partially). I'm now riding with confidence since I have my newly and personally installed belts turning my cams. Thanks Octane, you are "The Man!":action:
 

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All good points and easy explanation..Can't tell you enough about marking the wheels and crank..I did all that then on my recheck I noticed the Crank had moved off TDC by about an inch it was easy to reset everything with the marks scribed in. Very important.
 
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