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Look on the battery side on the top of the engine...There is a air hose that comes from the air box to the engine, look on the other side of that hose about 3" or maybe 4" on the top of the engine there will be cap that you put a large screwdriver to turn it....17mm for the crank cover cap on the rear of engine, 12mm for the crank and turn it clockwise only..Up..Not down..I always pull the plugs before I turn my crank..
 

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Great detail. I noted the issue 20+ years ago when I pulled the stock belt covers off my first wing when I was installing chromes. Looked at the book and knew something was not right. There were a few others I have seen with one loose belt including a friends 88 when I was doing his belts. The case was worn into from the belt.

Glad to see that this is well known now.

Bill
 

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Hi, thanks for this "how to" - worked just fine for me - excellent.
 

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Hi, I found this tutorial really helpful, especially the tip about putting a spanner(wrench) on the right hand pulley and zip-tying it to the frame to keep the camshaft in position. Having fitted the belts, I started turning the crankshaft by hand to check that all was OK when I heard a metallic clank - it wasn't a valve hitting a piston, I'd forgotten to take the zip tie off :doh:
 

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Ok, I have a big question... I just followed this tutorial on an 82 GL1100. Worked perfectly except on the right side. When I lined up the arrows exactly, the belt was about a half tooth off from meshing correctly. I had to move the gear slightly to get the belt on. Is this normal? When the gear is in line with the mark on the left side and the timing is at TDC, the right gear is NOT perfectly lined up wi the arrow. Off just a hair. Like half tooth. If so, and it's normal, should I put the arrow above or below the mark?
 

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I temporarily removed the wire tie(On the wrench) put the belt on then replaced the wire tie to keep the gear in Position until I got it on and the tensioner loosely installed.
 

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Thanks so much for the detailed tutorial. While I started the task with some trepidation, the actual belt changing on my '83 Interstateproceeded with no surprises. This is a great forum and I look forward to future projects, thanks to you guys.



:thumbsup:
 

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I haven't read all the posts so please don't mind if someone already mentioned this. First I want to join to the others who thank Octane for this tutorial, it's really great.

There is just one thing I would like to point out (actually it's been said in the workshop manual and Octane just copied it). It's about tensioning the belts. Manual says to use the wrench on the camshaft pulley bolt for this purpose (to pull the pulley counter-clockwise thus obtaining the force to stretch the belt and letting the tensioner spring to do its job). Pay attention that this way you are turning the bolt COUNTER-clockwise, so you are actually on a good way to loosen the bolt! OK, there is no much force used and it will normally not crack the bolt loosened, however,....you can never be 100% sure. We all know about the warnings not to turn the alternator bolt counterclockwise when turning the engine and this is not much different.

I think that it is much safer option to use a flat screwdriver for this purpose. You put it through one of the holes in the camshaft pulley, rest the top of the screwdriver against a rib on the heat shield and use it as a lever to pull the pulley counterclockwise to stretch the belt. It's dead easy and you don't have to watch out not to loosen the bolt.
 

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I just did this swap thanks to the instructions provided here. Was really easy. I haven't read through all the thread, but I'll mention that my water pump housing cover had a stretched out o-ring. By that, I mean that it would not fit in the groove. It was a Saturday afternoon and I had to scrounge to find a used one.

After I realized how close I was to the thermostat housing, I would have changed the thermostat as well.

So, when getting ready to do this, I would recommend changing out the radiator hoses, water pump housing cover o-ring, thermostat (and whatever sealer it needs). Maybe figure on flushing the cooling system, too. When I drained my coolant, it looked great, so I didn't bother with a flush.
 

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so i posted about changing my belts about a year ago, and still havnt changed them yet, ( just really scared to do it myself) and it is still running very well, but, i was told that i wouldnt have to do all of this taking the tesioner off and moving diffrent bolts to diffrent places, but that all i had to do was take off the cover, remove the belt check to see the marking are correct and them put back on the new belt, is this true?
 

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i also kinda think this posting is great for somebody who has alot of money to replace the radiator hoses and thermostats and all the partain to the radiator, but i dont so i would rather go for the easiest way possible to get my belts done, without ruining my radiator and parts.
 

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i also kinda think this posting is great for somebody who has alot of money to replace the radiator hoses and thermostats and all the partain to the radiator, but i dont so i would rather go for the easiest way possible to get my belts done, without ruining my radiator and parts.
 

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Torgear wrote:
so i posted about changing my belts about a year ago, and still havnt changed them yet, ( just really scared to do it myself) and it is still running very well, but, i was told that i wouldnt have to do all of this taking the tesioner off and moving diffrent bolts to diffrent places, but that all i had to do was take off the cover, remove the belt check to see the marking are correct and them put back on the new belt, is this true?
Don't know if you've done those belts yet but the short answer to your question is yes, technically you'd only need to remove the covers, change the belts and put the covers back on. Word of warning - you'd still have to make sure you have all the marks aligned correctly. And while you had the covers off you'd be a dope not to check the tensioners for poor bearings, though they don't need to be removed to be checked. And I have changed numerous belts on every model of Goldwing (not the 1800 - they have chains) and have found that you don't have to take off the rad. It is definitely easier to get at the covers but I've found that by loosening the nuts securing the rad it is possible to remove the cover bolts.

Now, after having said this, it is in your best interest to do regular preventative maintenance. A couple hours/dollars spent in your garage is time/money well spent compared to the time/money you'll spend if you end up on the side of the road waiting for a tow and then being at the mercy of the nearest stealership. Ask me how I know. :thumbsdown:

And I know its been 6 years since this was originally posted but why is this thread not a part of the Goldwing Workshop page? There are still some GL1000s out there and there is a current thread started by collins asking about exactly this subject. Maybe one of the Mods could see to that?
 

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Thanks for the excellent info. I bought a 81 GL1100 Std with a hondaline fairing last year 12,500 miles from the original owner. I have been hesitant to do my belts until I saw this tutorial. I just finished last night (it took me about four hours total) and It runs great! Now it should last me another 34 years, just kidding, thanks for saving me $300. :bow:

Regards,
Greg
 
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