imported post
Look in the post index under stator testing.
Look in the post index under stator testing.
charging issues
imported post
on my 1980 honda gl 1100 it charges at 11.75 volts i know this isnt good we ran all day and stopped and it wouldnt start back up obviously
i checked the stator connectors by the battery the plugs are good not melted clean and free of corrosion i found the rectifier the one i have in a box of "good used parts" dosent match up if anyone has any testing on this issue i would appreciate any help given
we wrap the motor up to 4000 rpms and it charges at 11.9 volts i am just praying the stator isnt bad if it is bad my question is
is it worth fixing and putting all the knuckle busting time in i know the motor will have to be removed parts would probably be pricy and i dont want to half ass it i would replace the clutch also
it has 51500 miles on it it runs very good and is pretty reliable
thanks for any input given
big a
on my 1980 honda gl 1100 it charges at 11.75 volts i know this isnt good we ran all day and stopped and it wouldnt start back up obviously
i checked the stator connectors by the battery the plugs are good not melted clean and free of corrosion i found the rectifier the one i have in a box of "good used parts" dosent match up if anyone has any testing on this issue i would appreciate any help given
we wrap the motor up to 4000 rpms and it charges at 11.9 volts i am just praying the stator isnt bad if it is bad my question is
is it worth fixing and putting all the knuckle busting time in i know the motor will have to be removed parts would probably be pricy and i dont want to half ass it i would replace the clutch also
it has 51500 miles on it it runs very good and is pretty reliable
thanks for any input given
big a
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imported post
Yea....... there is a test for the regulator/rectifier, I'm not at home right now, but someone will be along shortly to give you the test procedure. Has the clutch been ok? Cuz, I don't know whether I would mess with that. I think I had read the clutch can be done without pulling engine later if needed. Wishing you well.........
Yea....... there is a test for the regulator/rectifier, I'm not at home right now, but someone will be along shortly to give you the test procedure. Has the clutch been ok? Cuz, I don't know whether I would mess with that. I think I had read the clutch can be done without pulling engine later if needed. Wishing you well.........
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thanks for the info i tested the stator it has 45ac between all 3 yellow wires according to the tests is close enough for me it calles for 50 ac but i think it will be cool it has conunity through all 3 yellow terminals just like it says on the trouble shooting im thinking the rectifier is shot but it doesnt say how to test it in the index
my part number for this one is
sh238-12 and it says 9.0 off to the side its a 12 volt rectifer
if this is the culprit does anyone have one used and in good working order cheap? and im stressing CHEAP
thanks for the info i tested the stator it has 45ac between all 3 yellow wires according to the tests is close enough for me it calles for 50 ac but i think it will be cool it has conunity through all 3 yellow terminals just like it says on the trouble shooting im thinking the rectifier is shot but it doesnt say how to test it in the index
my part number for this one is
sh238-12 and it says 9.0 off to the side its a 12 volt rectifer
if this is the culprit does anyone have one used and in good working order cheap? and im stressing CHEAP
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if you are getting 45 on all three legs to an ajasent leg, and most imporatntly they are all the same voltage, one more thing, it shouldnt show continuity to the bike frame from any leg....if it doesnt, your good and the problem must either be the regulator rectifier, or some loose connection smewhere.
if you are getting 45 on all three legs to an ajasent leg, and most imporatntly they are all the same voltage, one more thing, it shouldnt show continuity to the bike frame from any leg....if it doesnt, your good and the problem must either be the regulator rectifier, or some loose connection smewhere.
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everything tests fine i pm'd mdkramer and he posed the troubleshooting on the index for this and he states that is has to be 50 ac volts so looks like i have a long weekend but i think im going to park it until winter and mess with it then
everything tests fine i pm'd mdkramer and he posed the troubleshooting on the index for this and he states that is has to be 50 ac volts so looks like i have a long weekend but i think im going to park it until winter and mess with it then
imported post
that voltage is rpm dependant, so to say it has to be 50 volts no matter what is not correct, that is just a ball park figure, and rms vs peak meters can also make that much difference. i think you are ok. as i stated before,if all three have the "same" voltage at any given rpm, all is good, it is extremly unlikly that all three coils have the exact same number of shorted turns..... i have 14 years as an electronics tech andam in my senior yeartoward my EE degree that i will stand behind.... i think it is ok unless you show continuity to ground. barring any intermittant failure that is not showing up right now, then that is another issue.
i would just try another regulator rectifier module...especially if you can borrow one somewhere.
that voltage is rpm dependant, so to say it has to be 50 volts no matter what is not correct, that is just a ball park figure, and rms vs peak meters can also make that much difference. i think you are ok. as i stated before,if all three have the "same" voltage at any given rpm, all is good, it is extremly unlikly that all three coils have the exact same number of shorted turns..... i have 14 years as an electronics tech andam in my senior yeartoward my EE degree that i will stand behind.... i think it is ok unless you show continuity to ground. barring any intermittant failure that is not showing up right now, then that is another issue.
i would just try another regulator rectifier module...especially if you can borrow one somewhere.
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