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78 Gl1000. After reading feedback that ignition is primary diagnosis for my rough sounding/dead cylinder, I'm wondering if my higher secondary resistance reading from one coil is due to a shorted/exposed (yellow) wire at the coils, the one leading from the points/ignition (electronic). This would make sense, no? Can I cut/reconnect that (short) length of yellow wire to the coils for better conductivity? Maybe that's my problem. The wire abuts the air box intake, so maybe the exposed part of the wire is shorting to ground on the airbox?

Also, should I test the stator?
 

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The secondary resistance should be the same in both coils.Even if the primary coil wire is shorted that shouldn't make any difference in the secondary winding resistance. The voltage from the electronic ignition isn't that high so you cold wrap the wire where it's exposed with some tape and see if a short to the airbox was a problem. I'd be suspicious of a coil that had deteriorated that much though. I'm not familiar enough with the 1000, can you switch the coils to see if the dead cylinder shifts?
 

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just checked the resistance again. Dead even on both coils. I guess trimming the wires back helped.

Still fouling #4 plug. I'm going to flush the float bowl, and spray some cleaner in the idle circuit to see if that helps.
 

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Since one coil fires two plugs and you only have one missing cylinder if it's electrical it's got to be either the connection to the coil or a problem with the spark cable/connector or sparkplug.If you havespark on the #4 plug it's likely the problem does lie with the fuel system.
 

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The battery needed charging/water. Bike runs much better now. Hard to get it totally smooth, as baffles are missing in mufflers, and i don't have a timing light. But it sounds pretty good, and acceleration is much better now.

I think it's definitely fuel. The coils test perfectly now. The left side still backfires, which might be #4 needing a fresh plug.

Not much further i can go without replacing baffles for back-pressure, or carb rebuild. Runs pretty good though. Still a bit warbly on #1 cylinder.
 

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my dear fellow, I have been through everything you mention in your posts with a 1979 GL1000. The end result was this: one bent conecting rod due to hydrostatic lock caused by carburator problem and most annoying but biggest reason for frustration: carburators. Take your carbs off, dont separate them from the plenum unless you need to, open them up up, do lots of research on the web and clean, clean, clean and clean. Kits are not expensive and worth the investment. Also change the o ring between the intake manifold and the cyl head. Most of all. I cant stress it enough clean your carbs. When you think they are clean, do them again using no abrasive and lots of air pressure. There are many sites I used as reference for info and they all have their good points to consider. After I got mine running really well, I sold it at the first opportunity so that I would not have to go thru this again. Good Luck with your carb cleaning!!!!
 

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Gilles, thank you. I hear you. Carbs. Bent connecting rod? Yikes...how did you find out, was it making noise like mine?

Anyway, I will get the carbs off and cleaned. Cheers.
 

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Mag, it sounds like you have some good & sound advise above. I will just add a little more.

When I suspect a "poor" or "no" spark condition I usually just take an old (known good) spark plug & open the electrode gap to 3/16" using a 3/16" drill bit as a gap gauge. Then install that plug in the offending cylinder's plug wire & lay it on the cyl head or block metal.. Then I crank the engine over with the ign switch turned on.. If the spark is a bluish color & constant on every firing the spark from the coil & wires is probably good to go,, if the spark is red, yellow or intermittent you have ignition woes..

Now on all the mis-firing you have been experiencing! Be sure to change your engine oil & filter as more than likely you have had a measurable amount of un-burnt fuel work it's way past your piston rings on that mis-firing cylinder & that can get expensive if it diluted your engine oil to the point of not protecting the enginebearings any longer under sustained load..



JDC
 
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