I had the same problem with my 1200 LTD and found the connections at the Reg/Ref were burned up. Coming out of the loom. I fixed that and never had any more problems with the charging. Good Luck.
What are you talking about? If it's what I think it is you took the noise suppressor I mentioned earlier out of the circuit, like I thought you should try.Success....Kinda. Why would Honda engineers use two sets of identical plastic plug connectors, using the same color wires on both sets of connectors, in such close proximity that either male side of the plugs can be connected to either of the female plugs?
No, if it's a sealed AGM battery 14.5 is just fine. That's the voltage my 1800 runs all the time. It will boil the water out of a old style wet cell battery though. Both of my 4 wheel vehicles charge at 14.5v also.. Just to be certain, 14.5 is too high for a properly charged battery, right?
I added the "three yellow" wording.When I removed the connector at the battery box I ran new wires. Two of the wires go to the white plug on the rectifier that has two yellow wires, the third replacement wire goes to the last yellow wire to the rectifier. I was told previously (11 yrs ago) that the three wires from the stastor can go to any of the three yellow wires of the rectifier. Just to be certain, 14.5 is too high for a properly charged battery, right?
Dave, not trying to argue but, I fried two sealed AGM's on my bike.. One was the Odysee and the other was the top of the line from Autozone.. Found out after the second one fried that the charging voltage should not exceed about 14.2vdc I believe due to the electrolyte "paste" used instead of acid, will cook off and dry up rendering it FUBAR.. I'm glad you and John are having good luck with them.. I won't buy or recomend another one period.....No, if it's a sealed AGM battery 14.5 is just fine. That's the voltage my 1800 runs all the time. It will boil the water out of a old style wet cell battery though. Both of my 4 wheel vehicles charge at 14.5v also.
You could probably reduce it by doing the relay mod to the black wire. Check voltage at the battery with a good meter to be sure what it actually is.
Yeah, my trike with Comp-U-Fire starts out mid 14s, but it gradually tapers off to 13.6 as it warms up … but I think that's what the temperature compensating regulator is supposed to do. I check my 4 wheelers with a volt meter plugged in while driving, see 13-14 VDC often as not.My 2001 Chevy Suburban runs at 14.5 all the time. the dash analog meter reads more than that, but the digital I have on the USB charger reads exactly 14.5
Now I understand your suggestion. I am ignorant of the electrical components on the bike so I had no idea where the noise suppressor was located. With the noise suppressor plugs connected to original wiring (i.e. connected to the system) the bike's voltmeter starts at 13+ then drops to 11ish. Currently the noise suppressor plugs are plugged into each other so nothing is going in or out of them. In this configuration the bike starts at 13 and climbs to 14.5 and stays there, no change when high beam is turned on. Both Shindengen rectifiers give the same readings in the above wiring configurations. Both rectifiers were installed while the noise suppression box was connected to the system. Do you think the defective noise suppressor damaged both rectifiers resulting in the high voltage output? BTW, when the bike's voltmeter shows 14.5 the battery voltage measures 14.3. I have an acid battery so I'm pretty sure I'll cook the battery in short order at 14+ volts.What are you talking about? If it's what I think it is you took the noise suppressor I mentioned earlier out of the circuit, like I thought you should try.