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I had the same problem with my 1200 LTD and found the connections at the Reg/Ref were burned up. Coming out of the loom. I fixed that and never had any more problems with the charging. Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Success....Kinda. Why would Honda engineers use two sets of identical plastic plug connectors, using the same color wires on both sets of connectors, in such close proximity that either male side of the plugs can be connected to either of the female plugs? Why didn't they make it idiot proof and put a little notch or something in the plug to keep idiots like me from confusing the plugs? Keep in mind I started this repair 11 years ago (that's my excuse anyway) but either back then or this month I had the plugs mis-matched. Now I have another problem. As stated, the battery is new and is at 12.5 v engine off. Upon start up, volt meter on bike starts at 13 and climbs to 14.5 and stays there! It'll cook the battery, not good. The voltmeter never climbed that high before I "fixed it". It always ran in the 13's. It behaves the same way with the original rectifier and the new one. Now it works too good! FYI, the black wire off the rectifier is now run as it was originally, not through a relay to the battery. Any thoughts on why it's over charging?
 

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Do you still see less than battery voltage on the black wire? If so the regulator will allow high voltage. There should be nearly no difference between black wire and battery voltage.
 

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Coastn, 14.5vdc is not that unusual for a Ltd Ed or SEi.. The meter on the dash is known for reading a bit higher than the actual voltage at the battery.. Check the voltage there and note the difference between the battery and the dash meter.. I think you'll be OK as long as you check the acid level once a month per the manual and add distilled water if needed.. Just stay away from the AGM batteries like the Odyssey battery!! A charging voltage above 14.1vdc will kill one within 6-12 months!!!
 

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Success....Kinda. Why would Honda engineers use two sets of identical plastic plug connectors, using the same color wires on both sets of connectors, in such close proximity that either male side of the plugs can be connected to either of the female plugs?
What are you talking about? If it's what I think it is you took the noise suppressor I mentioned earlier out of the circuit, like I thought you should try.
 

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These are the plugs I'm talking about. They will interchange.
Yes, if you follow the wires you will find one pair goes to a square box you don't need. I can't figure out from the picture the situation of the 3 yellow wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
When I removed the connector at the battery box I ran new wires. Two of the wires go to the white plug on the rectifier that has two yellow wires, the third replacement wire goes to the last yellow wire to the rectifier. I was told previously (11 yrs ago) that the three wires from the stastor can go to any of the wires of the rectifier. Just to be certain, 14.5 is too high for a properly charged battery, right?
 

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. Just to be certain, 14.5 is too high for a properly charged battery, right?
No, if it's a sealed AGM battery 14.5 is just fine. That's the voltage my 1800 runs all the time. It will boil the water out of a old style wet cell battery though. Both of my 4 wheel vehicles charge at 14.5v also.
You could probably reduce it by doing the relay mod to the black wire. Check voltage at the battery with a good meter to be sure what it actually is.
 

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When I removed the connector at the battery box I ran new wires. Two of the wires go to the white plug on the rectifier that has two yellow wires, the third replacement wire goes to the last yellow wire to the rectifier. I was told previously (11 yrs ago) that the three wires from the stastor can go to any of the three yellow wires of the rectifier. Just to be certain, 14.5 is too high for a properly charged battery, right?
I added the "three yellow" wording.
My '85 usually ran over 14 volts unless I turned on my two fog lights drawing 70 plus watts … or unless I was sitting at a stop light with brakes on. No extra lights on, just crank up RPMs, volt meter usually up over 14, even 14.4 often. I did check battery electrolyte often when using a wet cell, rare it couldn't use a bit so I kept a dispenser with distilled water handy.
 

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No, if it's a sealed AGM battery 14.5 is just fine. That's the voltage my 1800 runs all the time. It will boil the water out of a old style wet cell battery though. Both of my 4 wheel vehicles charge at 14.5v also.
You could probably reduce it by doing the relay mod to the black wire. Check voltage at the battery with a good meter to be sure what it actually is.
Dave, not trying to argue but, I fried two sealed AGM's on my bike.. One was the Odysee and the other was the top of the line from Autozone.. Found out after the second one fried that the charging voltage should not exceed about 14.2vdc I believe due to the electrolyte "paste" used instead of acid, will cook off and dry up rendering it FUBAR.. I'm glad you and John are having good luck with them.. I won't buy or recomend another one period.....
 

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My 2001 Chevy Suburban runs at 14.5 all the time. the dash analog meter reads more than that, but the digital I have on the USB charger reads exactly 14.5
Yeah, my trike with Comp-U-Fire starts out mid 14s, but it gradually tapers off to 13.6 as it warms up … but I think that's what the temperature compensating regulator is supposed to do. I check my 4 wheelers with a volt meter plugged in while driving, see 13-14 VDC often as not.
 

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I got to thinking about my Suburban, when it has been running like for an hour or more, the regulator pulls it back down to around 13.6ish

I didn't really pay much attention to this, until I was hooked up to the Toy Hauler making long runs between overnight stops..... that causes me to pay more attention to the gauges.....
the underhood temperature gets to a nice toasty warm amount, and the battery has time to equalize "temperature wise"....

I can understand why they start off at 14.5 initially, as cold batteries don't like to recharge.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
What are you talking about? If it's what I think it is you took the noise suppressor I mentioned earlier out of the circuit, like I thought you should try.
Now I understand your suggestion. I am ignorant of the electrical components on the bike so I had no idea where the noise suppressor was located. With the noise suppressor plugs connected to original wiring (i.e. connected to the system) the bike's voltmeter starts at 13+ then drops to 11ish. Currently the noise suppressor plugs are plugged into each other so nothing is going in or out of them. In this configuration the bike starts at 13 and climbs to 14.5 and stays there, no change when high beam is turned on. Both Shindengen rectifiers give the same readings in the above wiring configurations. Both rectifiers were installed while the noise suppression box was connected to the system. Do you think the defective noise suppressor damaged both rectifiers resulting in the high voltage output? BTW, when the bike's voltmeter shows 14.5 the battery voltage measures 14.3. I have an acid battery so I'm pretty sure I'll cook the battery in short order at 14+ volts.

321257
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Also, in the first picture I posted the wires appear to be mismatched but they are connected red to red, green to green etc.
 

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As I suspected the noise suppressor is the problem, and no it didn't damage your regulators. Attach a temporary jumper wire to the battery+ and the black to the regulator and see what the voltage shows.
 
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