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I don't think 14.5 is an issue but I know there was a thread related to the black wire having resistance. Pretty sure the ratio was one to one. If there is a tenth of a volt drop on the black wire between the battery and R/R voltage will rise one tenth of a volt. My point is there doesn't have to be much voltage drop on the black wire to gain a half volt or so. It is also possible that the R/R just is set at that voltage. There might be no issue at all.
As for the battery,there is virtually no difference between a flooded lead acid battery and an AGM battery except for an internal valve that makes it seal-able and the electrolyte is absorbed in a fiberglass mat. Lots of AGM batteries run at 14.5.
I wonder if Rosco was talking about a gel cell when he mentioned the thick electrolyte. AGM batteries use the same electrolyte (sulphuric acid) as traditional battery.. Gel batteries add silicate to the acid to make them gel cells. Not many around since the AGM has made them obsolete.
 

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I wonder if Rosco was talking about a gel cell when he mentioned the thick electrolyte. AGM batteries use the same electrolyte (sulphuric acid) as traditional battery.. Gel batteries add silicate to the acid to make them gel cells. Not many around since the AGM has made them obsolete.
Pretty sure the odyssey battery he speaks of is a gel cell.
 

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Pretty sure the odyssey battery he speaks of is a gel cell.
That makes sense Dave. I just looked it up and the absorption voltage range 14.0 to 14.2 volts is for the gel cell while the AGM absorption voltage range 14.4 to 15.0 volts. He mentioned 14.2 in his post.
 

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Don,
All we are saying is that when you referred to the electrolyte in post #35 you said "14.2vdc I believe due to the electrolyte "paste" used instead of acid." AGM batteries use regular electrolyte. I looked up the AGM battery and it can charge as high as 15 volts with no issues. The gel cells can only charge at 14.2 and have the powder silicate added to the electrolyte. That is why we were guessing you might be talking about a gel cell. No big deal. If you say it is an AGM I bet you are right but it should have regular sulfuric acid and no silicate. It also should tolerate 15 volts with no issues. No big deal just confusion. Probably my bad. :)
 

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Have been following this thread. Charging issues are always a challenge. My interest is in the picture. The OEM wiring setup had two RR connectors - an 8 and 3 pin that fit in the connector holder just forward of where the RR is installed. Your picture shows two 8 pin connectors. I would suggest that someone has done some wiring changes that are not IAW. I would take the wiring harness apart to determine what has been done. Just saying.
 

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Have been following this thread. Charging issues are always a challenge. My interest is in the picture. The OEM wiring setup had two RR connectors - an 8 and 3 pin that fit in the connector holder just forward of where the RR is installed. Your picture shows two 8 pin connectors. .
That is what he has, an 8 pin and a 3 pin, the stator wires have obviously been replaced by red wires and the 8 pin connectors with the yellow wires in them are for the noise suppressor which has been taken out of the circuit because it was causing the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I will do check the voltage as soon as I can get it started...rust in the tank. I fear some small particles made it past the filter to the injector(s) as it wants to start but won't. Looks like I'll be pulling the tank for cleaning.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I got it to start, voltage on bike's voltmeter read the same with the jumper wire connected as it did without it, starts at 13+ and climbs to 14.5. Disconnecting the jumper and reconnecting it while the bike was running had no effect on the voltmeter reading.
 

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I got it to start, voltage on bike's voltmeter read the same with the jumper wire connected as it did without it, starts at 13+ and climbs to 14.5. Disconnecting the jumper and reconnecting it while the bike was running had no effect on the voltmeter reading.
That's a good sign, it's working as it should be, little or no resistance in the circuit.
 

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I will do check the voltage as soon as I can get it started...rust in the tank. I fear some small particles made it past the filter to the injector(s) as it wants to start but won't. Looks like I'll be pulling the tank for cleaning.
If the tank is not totally rusted out I would recommend you look for threads using electrolysis and clean the tank while in the bike.. If you haven't removed the tank on a 1200 yet, I have and it's a Royal Pain!!! Reinstalling one is even worse... Check with John.. He might have a link to one of the threads describing the process...
 

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The neat thing about this, is you do NOT remove the tank from the bike.
and it cleans everything, including the fuel sender rheostat.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Years ago I installed a relay for my added on driving lights. The lights do not illuminate now due to the relay being bad. I am going to disconnect the relay from the system and check the voltage on the bike. I also kept the original rectifier which I found tucked away in the saddlebag. I'm going to install that one too and check the voltage. (Now I have a total of 3 original equipment rectifiers!)
I decided to pull the tank as I wasn't sure how extensive the rust was. I knew it was a challenge but I wanted to clean everything as well as change out all of the fluids. I used Works toilet bowl cleaner (as seen on youtube) and it did a great job!
BTW, keep in mind the right front caliper is controlled by the rear brake foot lever. It took me a while to figure that one out! Hopefully it will be back together by Friday.
What is the purpose of this small plastic reservoir? The hose goes up to the air cleaner to another reservoir then on to a small PVC looking valve in the air cleaner housing. I'm guessing it's some kind of condensation collection system but why collect the water? The reservoir in the picture is filled with a liquid that seems to be water. Should I empty it? Thanks.
 

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This reservoir collects condensation from the system. You should empty every so often. Thinking it's better to collect the water than let it drip on the floor.
 

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I kind of think it is there for rain water and washing thee bike etc. If you just left the hose open unfiltered air could enter the air cleaner/engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
I got it back together, the three yellow stator wires now go directly to the rectifier, bike voltmeter reads low 14's, volts to battery are about three tenths less. I will watch the battery fluid level...if I can get it to run right.
I am now faced with two more dilemmas. It runs poorly and the clutch slips. Keep in mind she sat for a total of 20 years. It was running poorly on when I first started it and I attributed that to rust in the gas tank possibly clogging the fuel lines, filter and or injectors. After cleaning the rust from the tank and installing a new Beck/Arnley fuel filter, fresh ethanol free gas and it still runs poorly. The bike seems to run better sometimes than others. It always starts, sometimes it idles lower than it should, it will rev to a point then cut out like its starving for fuel. Now it has started to backfire when reved. It is producing a lot of smoke like it is running rich. BTW, I have never touched any ignition settings. I have less than 1 gallon of gas in it and I just added a whole can of Seafoam. It was smoking before I added the seafoam.
The clutch is slipping, it releases as soon as the lever is squeezed. The I replaced all of the brake fluid (DOT 4) in the brake systems and clutch and bled them with no effect on the clutch. Any thoughts are appreciated!
 
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