imported post
Yep
Yep
Charging Question, 85 GL1200
imported post
Here is the scenerio......
85 Aspy, sometimes cranks well, sometimes not. Checking the charging system (all readings taken at the battery). Checked the voltage at battery before any cranking was done...12.3v. It has only sit overnight with the stock clock running and I don't have any voltage leaks.
Tried cranking it and the battery went below 8v and bike didn't start. Starter turning but wouldn't fire off. After it wouldn't crank, checked thebattery and it was at 11.7v. Put the battery on my trickle charger for about 5 minutes with my meter reading voltage input, waited until the reading was 13.7v and removed charger. Took reading again and the battery was at 13.5v. Hit the starter button and she fired right up. I then took these readings....
At idle (1000rpm) w/no accessories on or running (fan off)....13.8v
2000rpm.....14.5v
3000rpm.....15.2v
At idle with fan running.....13.3v
2000rpm......14.1v
3000rpm......14.8v
I know the 15.2v is a little high at 3000rpm and I know the driving lights, 100w, will pull the load down while they are on and slowly drops the voltage below 12.5v while at idle. But when rpm's are up (2k and above)it will bring the voltage back up above 13.2v.
I am leaning toward the battery starting to flake out on me. I don't know how old the battery is. I have not pulled it yet to check the liquid level or have it load tested. I have it on the trickle charger right now waiting for the green light on the charger to do further testing.
Here is the scenerio......
85 Aspy, sometimes cranks well, sometimes not. Checking the charging system (all readings taken at the battery). Checked the voltage at battery before any cranking was done...12.3v. It has only sit overnight with the stock clock running and I don't have any voltage leaks.
Tried cranking it and the battery went below 8v and bike didn't start. Starter turning but wouldn't fire off. After it wouldn't crank, checked thebattery and it was at 11.7v. Put the battery on my trickle charger for about 5 minutes with my meter reading voltage input, waited until the reading was 13.7v and removed charger. Took reading again and the battery was at 13.5v. Hit the starter button and she fired right up. I then took these readings....
At idle (1000rpm) w/no accessories on or running (fan off)....13.8v
2000rpm.....14.5v
3000rpm.....15.2v
At idle with fan running.....13.3v
2000rpm......14.1v
3000rpm......14.8v
I know the 15.2v is a little high at 3000rpm and I know the driving lights, 100w, will pull the load down while they are on and slowly drops the voltage below 12.5v while at idle. But when rpm's are up (2k and above)it will bring the voltage back up above 13.2v.
I am leaning toward the battery starting to flake out on me. I don't know how old the battery is. I have not pulled it yet to check the liquid level or have it load tested. I have it on the trickle charger right now waiting for the green light on the charger to do further testing.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
imported post
Nothing takes more volts and amps than the starter. Trickle charge that battery over night and then try it. Or find someone with a load tester and check CCA on battery and load test at that. Take it to a GOOD AutoZone store and have them load test in the BOOM Box would be safer...If it is not the battery then check cables. Starters draw more amps as they get older.
Nothing takes more volts and amps than the starter. Trickle charge that battery over night and then try it. Or find someone with a load tester and check CCA on battery and load test at that. Take it to a GOOD AutoZone store and have them load test in the BOOM Box would be safer...If it is not the battery then check cables. Starters draw more amps as they get older.
imported post
Most likely battery I would think.....Steve
Most likely battery I would think.....Steve
imported post
Sounds like a cell is shorting out...
Also sounds like a good candidate for desulfation.
Of course, I'm assuming a lot of things here...
Sounds like a cell is shorting out...
Also sounds like a good candidate for desulfation.
Of course, I'm assuming a lot of things here...
imported post
Thanks folks...that is the way I am thinking also. Getting ready to do some more testing with a fully charged battery, albeit the suspect battery.
I am also gonna install a digital voltmeter to keep aneye on the system.
Thanks folks...that is the way I am thinking also. Getting ready to do some more testing with a fully charged battery, albeit the suspect battery.
I am also gonna install a digital voltmeter to keep aneye on the system.
imported post
Doug....just read your post.
On my 85 Aspy serveral years ago......I had the same problem. I dove into the electrical thinking stator problem. Checked the stator and everything else and it was the battery causing the exact same issue (which was a month old) :gunhead:
Doug....just read your post.
On my 85 Aspy serveral years ago......I had the same problem. I dove into the electrical thinking stator problem. Checked the stator and everything else and it was the battery causing the exact same issue (which was a month old) :gunhead:
imported post
Snorebaby wrote:
Snorebaby wrote:
:doh:I am also gonna install a digital voltmeter to keep aneye on the system.
imported post
Rudy wrote:
Rudy wrote:
Rudy....he knows that the Smartlight is in his future....Nov. 6th to be exact:action:Snorebaby wrote::doh:I am also gonna install a digital voltmeter to keep aneye on the system.
imported post
Flyone wrote:
Flyone wrote:
Thanks Bill...I am thinking it is the battery. Something just seems odd about it and I also don't know the age. A new battery is gonna be installed.Doug....just read your post.
On my 85 Aspy serveral years ago......I had the same problem. I dove into the electrical thinking stator problem. Checked the stator and everything else and it was the battery causing the exact same issue (which was a month old) :gunhead:
imported post
UPDATE:
Had the battery tested....They said it was good...12.65v....BUT only had 77CCA!! How in the @&#^ can that be a good battery?
Bro bought an AGM battery (350 CCA)and installed it. Starter spun so fast it almost flipped the bike:cheeky1:
Still getting 15.2v at the upper RPM range. Maybe the Reg/Rect may be on the way out?
UPDATE:
Had the battery tested....They said it was good...12.65v....BUT only had 77CCA!! How in the @&#^ can that be a good battery?
Bro bought an AGM battery (350 CCA)and installed it. Starter spun so fast it almost flipped the bike:cheeky1:
Still getting 15.2v at the upper RPM range. Maybe the Reg/Rect may be on the way out?
imported post
Yep, sounds like the alternator is doing its job, but the battery is weak. I found just the other day, that my positive battery cable at the battery was missing a special thick washer, which caused the battery bolt to bottom out before getting a tight connection. I also had the dogbone fuse vaporize upon using reverse. It was the first charging system failure in 2 years, and it wasn't the bikes fault! jimsjinx
Yep, sounds like the alternator is doing its job, but the battery is weak. I found just the other day, that my positive battery cable at the battery was missing a special thick washer, which caused the battery bolt to bottom out before getting a tight connection. I also had the dogbone fuse vaporize upon using reverse. It was the first charging system failure in 2 years, and it wasn't the bikes fault! jimsjinx
imported post
Thanks Jim...but the battery is a brand new sealed AGM. It is a good battery as it spins the starter alot faster than the old weak battery ever thought about (since he has had the bike) and it starts right up. The manual says anything over 15v (I am reading 15.2v @ 3000rpm) the reg/rect. should be replaced. I have not done the tests onthe reg/rect.yet...just wantingideas to make sure I am going in the right direction.
Thanks Jim...but the battery is a brand new sealed AGM. It is a good battery as it spins the starter alot faster than the old weak battery ever thought about (since he has had the bike) and it starts right up. The manual says anything over 15v (I am reading 15.2v @ 3000rpm) the reg/rect. should be replaced. I have not done the tests onthe reg/rect.yet...just wantingideas to make sure I am going in the right direction.
imported post
If you charge up the battery and then have it checked it can give a false reading. It confuses the electronics.
One of the biggest headaches when selling batteries are the lies people tell when they bring them back. Every day another scam. I absolutely hate it when they LIE directly to me instead of just telling me the truth..
When I repaired bikes in my not so distant murky past I rarely found a new battery that failed. I'm not saying that they are infallible, it's just that there are just so few parts to go wrong, it can come down to a manufacturing fault such as a short between cells, or a casting fault which is amazingly rare. As with all electrical faults, usually it's a fuse, wiring, alternator, brushes or regulator or solenoid.
Just remember that when you buy your brand new battery, don't just install in your car, cycle or what have you, take it home and put it on a good soak charge and then after at least 6 to 8 hours, then fit it and you will get a great life from it. But if you just get it and fill with acid and then pop it in, it will last only a year or two but it will never fully charge or reach it's full potential.
http://www.batteryuniversity.com/parttwo-42B.htm
http://www.batteryuniversity.com/partone-21.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_battery
If you charge up the battery and then have it checked it can give a false reading. It confuses the electronics.
One of the biggest headaches when selling batteries are the lies people tell when they bring them back. Every day another scam. I absolutely hate it when they LIE directly to me instead of just telling me the truth..
When I repaired bikes in my not so distant murky past I rarely found a new battery that failed. I'm not saying that they are infallible, it's just that there are just so few parts to go wrong, it can come down to a manufacturing fault such as a short between cells, or a casting fault which is amazingly rare. As with all electrical faults, usually it's a fuse, wiring, alternator, brushes or regulator or solenoid.
Just remember that when you buy your brand new battery, don't just install in your car, cycle or what have you, take it home and put it on a good soak charge and then after at least 6 to 8 hours, then fit it and you will get a great life from it. But if you just get it and fill with acid and then pop it in, it will last only a year or two but it will never fully charge or reach it's full potential.
http://www.batteryuniversity.com/parttwo-42B.htm
http://www.batteryuniversity.com/partone-21.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_battery
imported post
On a new battery. straight out of the box.. add the acid. leave the battery to sit afterwards (overnight) Then apply a 1.5 amp charge until showing a full charge. then install it on the bike. you'll wind up with a battery hot enough to just about spin the starter out of it's mounting ! And you'll have service from this battery for a very long time.. dont be in a big hurry to just slap in a new battery.
On a new battery. straight out of the box.. add the acid. leave the battery to sit afterwards (overnight) Then apply a 1.5 amp charge until showing a full charge. then install it on the bike. you'll wind up with a battery hot enough to just about spin the starter out of it's mounting ! And you'll have service from this battery for a very long time.. dont be in a big hurry to just slap in a new battery.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums
A forum community dedicated to Honda Gold Wing owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about reviews, performance, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top Contributors this Month
View All
De Motormuis
584 Replies
Foodman
349 Replies
harveysmedlap
288 Replies
Recommended Communities
