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once again thanks for all the input, it is a 84 aspencade, 1200 with 35,000 on it, wiring is in great shape, i have traced down all the wiring. plugs, i dont think the bike has ever been messed with still had the original tires on it when i got it last year. it doesnt appear that the previous owner ever tended to the recall, its all the original wiring, i only have one wire that test even close to 50 volts on ac current out of the stator itself on the yellow wires, plugs and all look good. only reading i get from the battery is a flatline reading. nothing above 12 volts or very little above that. i have ordered the kit for the car alt, but if anyone has any ideas that i have overlooked let me know before i start this alt project, thanks, mike h
 

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If only one of the yellow wires is giving a good reading then you need look no further, the stator is dead. Good luck with the external kit, I've heard good things about it.
 

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hammer wrote:
once again thanks for all the input, it is a 84 aspencade, 1200 with 35,000 on it, wiring is in great shape, i have traced down all the wiring. plugs, i dont think the bike has ever been messed with still had the original tires on it when i got it last year. it doesnt appear that the previous owner ever tended to the recall, its all the original wiring, i only have one wire that test even close to 50 volts on ac current out of the stator itself on the yellow wires, plugs and all look good. only reading i get from the battery is a flatline reading. nothing above 12 volts or very little above that. i have ordered the kit for the car alt, but if anyone has any ideas that i have overlooked let me know before i start this alt project, thanks, mike h
Mike, make sure the plug that connects the 3 yellow stator wires to the wire harness (just in front of battery) is DISCONNECTED before checking for the AC voltage. Also MAKE SURE you are testing BETWEEN each of the yellow wires & NOTjust checking to ground as there is no output to ground with the connector open.

With only one wire producing measurable voltage it probably either means the stator is fried OR you are measuring incorrectly.

Twisty
 

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yes indeed i have it disconnected, i have tested that silly thing ever way possible, maybe if i keep testing it , it will come back to life lol??. anyways, i have a external kit on the way this is killing me not being able to ride. thanks for the help
 

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hammer, if you have a decent battery and a chargeryou can still ride your bike short distances with a dead stator. Rig up a VOM temporarily on your Wing to show you how much voltage is left in the battery and head for home when the voltage is dipping below 12. When my stator died I rode 125 miles without it on a single recharge, but, I did have the headlite fuse out to lessen the drain on the battery.

Good luck with the conversion.

Vic
 

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oh yea i havent given up on my town riding, i miss being able to get out on the road and ride with no desitnation in mind . :)
 

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So how is your conversion going My Stator quit the other day and I'm looking at the same thing although a friend says I should replace the stator instead of putting in the alt kit. By the way where did you order it from and how much?



Neil
 

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Neil, have your friend pay for any warranty problems if you need to change the stator if it goes again after you replace it and I'll bet that he tells you to go with the external alternator instead. I've seen guys replace the stock stator and have it die again in less than six months and out comes the engine again. With the external alternator it's a 30 minute rebuild and reinstall if it goes bad, plus you can run all the extra accessories you want to with the car alternator.

Vic
 

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so far so good, im about half way done. i havent really jumped into it full blow, been pretty busy with work and all, i ordered mine from a guy on here for 165.00 plus a little for shipping and stuff. but from what i have seen so far, its nothing to complicatted to install. there are pros and cons to everthing in life, some guys say dont do the kit and some guys swear by them, it all boils down to time and money, how fast do you want to get back to riding and how much are you willing to spend?i have heard a quite of few guys on here that have installed the kits and have run several years without problem, his email is [email protected], if you have any problems at all , these folks on the forum are great, they pointed me in all the right direction, have a good day:)
 

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OK i've looked very carefully at the kit and the biggest thing is the size of the pulley from what I can see

outside Dia; what kind of boss depth of boss etc can you email a pic and dimensions?

What # is the belt? and how do you adjust belt tension?

The rest I can do at friends shop(a different friend)

One the other side if it lasted 70k miles the statorshould last at least that again if you don't overload it which seems to be what happens most of the time

Time to flip a coin but leaning towards:baffled: converting



Neil
 

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Hi Neil, I recently completed my conversion and the pulley you get with Don's kit will match the Metro Geo alternator pulley with a 1:1 ratio.

It's a three groove pulley and the belt I used was a 29.5 inch belt from the local auto parts store. I suggest getting a 29" and a 30" belt also to check for fit. (Return the one's that don't). there is some adjustment available but very very little.

Good luck with it if you decide to go that route.
 

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More I hear for you guys the more I am leaning to converting. But I will be putting together my own kit as the Can US dollar sucks right now and from what I see the only part I can't make myself is the pulley So if you could please email me a few more clear pics of it and all the measurements I think I can find one here in Vancouver



Thanks Neil
 

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Read somewhere that Honda will replace the stators on GL1200's for the original and subsequent owners, as long as the original repair was done at any Honda dealer.
This might be a 'hidden warranty', so you may have to do some digging
 

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So the story gets weirder

Today I started the conversion to an Alternator pulled rad then changed the timing belts while I was in there Just before I cut hole in Timing covers for the pully I was looking at the connections for the stator I measured again and one yellow was open I tugged hard on this wire and lo and behold about six inches slid out It turns out some previous owner of the bike had done not one but two splices in the stator wiring the second low down covered by the wiring sheath. and that had corroded off I replaced all the wiring and now have a working stator ( probabely(sic) has been this way for a while as my problem was intermitent. Just goes to show Needless to say the conversion came to a screeching halt

:gunhead:Neil
 

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better get a harness upgrade while your still treading water . sounds like you caught in in time
 

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ccsailor wrote:
So the story gets weirder

Today I started the conversion to an Alternator pulled rad then changed the timing belts while I was in there Just before I cut hole in Timing covers for the pully I was looking at the connections for the stator I measured again and one yellow was open I tugged hard on this wire and lo and behold about six inches slid out It turns out some previous owner of the bike had done not one but two splices in the stator wiring the second low down covered by the wiring sheath. and that had corroded off I replaced all the wiring and now have a working stator ( probabely(sic) has been this way for a while as my problem was intermitent. Just goes to show Needless to say the conversion came to a screeching halt
Neil, as long as you didn't burn any of those 3 yellow wires enough to touch the other yellow wires there is a good chance you didn't hurt your stator. Any of those yellow wires just going open doesn't hurt the stator. With an open yellow there isn't any current flow in that leg. No current flow means no stator damage.

I would suggest you cut all 3 yellow wires back until you find good clean wire with no sign of burning, then cut the 3 yellow wires at the voltage regulator (just on the regulator side of the connector) then solder in 3 completely new wires (12 or 14 gauge).. Use splice clips & then crimp the splice clips, then firmly solder the splice clips & wire connections. Before making the final end connection slip on some heat shrink tubing to cover the soldered joints. Leave the 3 yellow wires separated at the soldered connection are so they can't burn together in the future. When all done run the yellow wires in that black plastic convolutedtubing.

Once repaired see if your system is operational. (let us know)

Twisty
 

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done all that already Stator is good to go Guess I'm stuck with 22 amps 300 W for a while Good thing I don't have a light fetish like I've seen on some wings

Neil
 

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83gl1100A wrote:
Read somewhere that Honda will replace the stators on GL1200's for the original and subsequent owners, as long as the original repair was done at any Honda dealer.
This might be a 'hidden warranty', so you may have to do some digging
This warranty was available only from Honda USA. To my knowledge Honda Canada did not provide this.
 
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