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I am having issues with the charging system on my GL1100. My battery is new and reads 12.7with the engine off. I have replaced the stator and it tests good. I am getting 50 + across all three wires. I have tried two different regulator/rectifiers and still read 12.7 with the engine between 3k-4k RPM.

I have tested both the regulator/rectifiers with a VOM. The reverse direction testing shows 0 across all 6 tests,( I know this is bad) , and7+ across the other 6 tests. ( which is good ). Has anyone ever opened up a R/R? I suppose what is inside is a bunch of diodes? correct? Can they be replaced if one can open the back up?

One other thing I have come across is that the starter relay fuse was missing and the previous owner had used 10 gauge solid copper wire across the two screws in back. If there is a short or other problem, would the weakest link in the charging system blow? For instance the diodes in the R/R.



Thank you,



Jerry
 

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Yep, you have a bad regulator apparently. I don't think there is any way to open it up and fix it.
About the main fuse, it's not going to affect the charging system if something down stream shorts out. It will only smoke the wiring between where the short is and the battery and of course discharge the battery.
 

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12.7 VDC indicates not much, take voltage across battery posts with bbike off but all connection made, key off...should be 12.xx about 12.5 +.

Start bike and let warm up, while in 1300-1500 RPM what is voltage
When warmed and idling what is voltage
Then take voltage around 2000 + range.

A good system willread 12.7 at all stop cod
At 1300-1500 around 14.xx depends on battery condition
At warm idle 14.xx
At 2000+ at 14.xx
These reading depend on battery state so charge the battery off the bike, verify SOC with a cell check for Specific Gravity of 1.25 at 70 F. Also verify each cell voltage at a minimum of 1.85 to 2.11
Report back with numbers
Checking diodes is difficult when tied together and there are 6 of them in a 3 phase grouping but a test at the battery will indicate by readings the alternator, the diodes and SCR dumping whether good or bad, an individual test is needed if overall indicates bad.
 

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Yikes, get rid of that 10ga wire between the terminals. Install a blade fuse in it's place.

Do you have a lot of accessories drawing current, like lights?

BTW aftermarket R/R are pretty much junk in my experience. Had the same issue with my VFR, ended up getting a factory Honda unit that cured the issue, along with some extra ground wiring.
 

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That #10 wire with insulation is good enough for 30-50 Amps, making bare it could handle 100 A, so much for protection. The 30A fuse on the other hand starts to blow at 80% level or 24 A and if it is a slow blow it will add time to the blowing status.
 
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