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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just found out I need a new stator. I have heard of a poor man's fix for this problem but need more information.

Anyone out there go info for me? how much? what is it? where's the best place to purchase? ya, stuff like that.



thanks

Rusty
 

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Welcome to the site. Sorry you had to look us up under your circumstances but you've come to the right place. You can get the stuff you need for the Poorboy conversion here:

http://www.gl1200goldwings.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=331

If you do a search, I believe the GL1200 site has it, you'll find step-by-step instructions, with pictures, of how to go about it. And if you get stuck there'll always be someone ready to give you a nudge in the right direction. Good luck and don't give up.

p.s. you may be in luck. GLHonda, one of the moderators and a Goldwing guru, from over on the GL1200 site only lives 60 miles from you in Olympia. If you run into difficulties you may be able to get him to come over and give you some pointers.
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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Before you do anything Rusty, make sure it's the stator.

The poorboy coversion requires serious alteration of the bike and sticks out in an (my opinion) ugly manner.

I suggest you go with an OEM. Honda did change the stator so the newer ones last forever. Or at least a couple hundred thousand miles. :p

You have to pull the engine out to the left a foot or so to do the job, but at least you'll know it's done right.

By the way, Welcome to the forum. And keep us posted.
 

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rusty wrote:
just found out I need a new stator. I have heard of a poor man's fix for this problem but need more information.

Anyone out there go info for me? how much? what is it? where's the best place to purchase? ya, stuff like that.



thanks

Rusty
Welcome to this Great Site!

Pull up a chair and join on in!

Ride Safe, Ray


:waving:
 

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If it's a 1200 then the external (poorboy) conversion is totally hidden behind the left fairing panel.......steve
 

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Yes, the poorboy is completely hidden unless you look into the left lower fairing fin, a good choice, in my opinion, not to bad of a job to do either.

From what I have read, I would stay away from the stators

Just my opinion

GOD Bless,
jerry
 

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steve worth wrote:
If it's a 1200 then the external (poorboy) conversion is totally hidden behind the left fairing panel.......steve

Really? I can't remember what model I saw but it had a big GM alternator above the left belt cover, which was cut away to allow the extra belt. And of course the brackets were a visual without equal.

If you like the way rat bikes look. This would have been pure eye candy to you.
 

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Then you weren't looking at a Poorboy installation.
 

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I have seen the type you are talking about, the alt is mounted to the motor crash bars.

Do a search and you will find it
 

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i think the one that hung off the side by the crashbar wascalled a dupli tech or something like that. The poorboy is hidden but does take a little patience for the initial installation.JB
 

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What you saw was not a poorboy... it is hidden behind the left fairing lower, you cant barely see it and even if you do, it will look just fine. i actually love the idea of being able to add way more lights than with a stock stator. the Duplitech external convertion sucks, it sticks out the left belt cover, looks very very verrrrrry ugly and it has been discussed that the two small bolts that hold the cover on are not enough to hold the weigh of the alt. so stay away from it!.

Bike...and Dennis wrote:
steve worth wrote:
If it's a 1200 then the external (poorboy) conversion is totally hidden behind the left fairing panel.......steve

Really? I can't remember what model I saw but it had a big GM alternator above the left belt cover, which was cut away to allow the extra belt. And of course the brackets were a visual without equal.

If you like the way rat bikes look. This would have been pure eye candy to you.
 

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I can only repeat, I've done 2 alternator conversions using an external alternator, totally hidden behind the left lower fairing cover. Perfect- and a total cure, (and probably quicker than an engine out stator swap, especially as you'll probably end up repeating this task in a couple of years as the standard units regularly fail). No doubt someone will tell me there's is still going strong after 100k miles, but I had 2 go in my bike in 40k and my mate the same, hence the external alternator route for reliability.....Steve
 

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I would go for nthe poor boy conversion for two reasons:



1. You do not have to pull the engine.

2. You can get more electricalpower from an alternator than a stator so more power is available for after market goodies.:action:
 

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Using the Poor Boy, since you will have it tore down, change you timing belts if they havnt been for awhile
 

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Just found out for sure the stator is gone to stator...whatever! I sure do not look forward to pulling an engine. The previous owner is into electronics and researched from ElectroSport that was suppose to be a fix all. Well, it only has 13k on this wonderful unit! I say wonderful cause I bought the bike 3K ago. So now I'm going to pull the motor, I don't think so.
Thanks for all your input, but I too have heard the poor boy conversion, on this year, is totally hidden. I think I will check into going this route.
Thanks for all the input, I'LL BE BACK!
Rusty
 

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See, I knew somebody would have had no trouble with their's. Well done Bike and Dennis. Out of interest, what do you put this down to? Is it regular oil changes? were the mods (to cut out the connectors and solder wires directly) done before problems had a chance to start? is the bike standard with no electrical extras? I ask because many theories abound re early stator demise.
By the way, I wasn't being sarcastic when I said someone will have had no trouble, as this is often the case with vehicles. Some people will describe a vehicle as the best they've ever had- others will have had no end of problems and end up hating it. Is this just the "luck of the draw"?. Anyway 177K is pretty good going and I hope you get plenty more..Steve
 

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steve worth wrote:
See, I knew somebody would have had no trouble with their's. Well done Bike and Dennis. Out of interest, what do you put this down to? Is it regular oil changes? were the mods (to cut out the connectors and solder wires directly) done before problems had a chance to start? is the bike standard with no electrical extras? I ask because many theories abound re early stator demise.
Actually Steve, Honda has great faith in thier redesigned stators. They gave me a lifetime warranty on this one. It has actually survived two plug failures, but is hard wired now.

I credit the high mileage on the bike to routine maintenance, but I don't know if that helps the charging system. I have no extra lights but I do have an aftermarket radio and electronic cruise control.

I've seen some pretty scary accessory wiring on other 'Wings. In my opinion such things do contribute to stator failure.
 

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2006 Wing, 1989 Wing, Past: Honda Elite, Suzuki 450, Honda VT500, 84Wing
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HI, I'm new to the forum. I just bought an 84 Interstate w/30K miles. I just picked it up tonite and rode it back to VT, about 60 miles. Will have it looked over by my mechanic soon. $1800. If there is no major BS then I think I have a good deal. I'm amazed at the power. I encountered some vibration or looseness in the drive train but don't know if that is normal for this year.

I was warned about the stator disaster waiting to happen by my local guru, Stan.

I work in electronics so I have some educated guesses why they fail. The HONDA repair manual rates the stock 84 stator at 360 watts at 14 volts. Divide 360 watts by 14 volts and you get 25 amps rating. Which isn't a whole lot but enough for the stock bike. Another reason may be too many lights.

I will probably replace some of the running lights with LED bulbs to reduce the alt. load. Every bit counts.

If just one of the connectors to the stator goes bad, heats up and goes open, it shifts the load to the remaining 1 active winding. There is no output from the other 2 windings because they are effectively in series at that point but out of phase enough and can't contribute. The working winding becomes overloaded and a series of curse words ensues, followed by the replacement or alternator conversion. In addition it overheats the remaining connectors.

RE: Conversions - If you have a shorted stator and you don't remove it it will present a load to the engine since it will drive the shorted windings. What happens after that, I don't know since I haven't had to repair one. But if the stator sits in oil it will contaminate the oil as it overheats the insulation. So it seems to me a good idea to remove the old stator if you do the conversion to the alternator. Maybe it is a non issue in practice but it is something worth mentioning. At least it would reduce the load of a short and the weight of the stator. Anyone else venture an opinion?

I am, just for giggles, working on a "series pass" regulator rather than the standard shunt regulator for the stock stator. This will only load the stator coils with the actual power draw needed if all goes well. The shunt regulator loads the stator to keep the output voltage from climbing. This is standard fare for most motorcycles. The downside of shunt regulation is, A-wasting engine power, even a fraction of a horse, B-heating the stator up.

FYI - 1 horsepower = 750 watts
Power = Volts X Amps

Fusing-Cars and houses distribute the load though discrete fuses, fusing smaller loads appropriately. If you have 1 large 100 amp fuse and a short to ground in a smaller wire there is a good chance the wire will burn up before the fuse blows and if it is in a wire harness it will melt the adjacent insulation, too. That is not a fun repair and it is a fire waiting to happen.

Now if you are putting on a 105 amp alternator you should make sure your aux gadgets each are fused for what they normally pull. If you run a wire to a bike trailer to charge a deep discharge battery it should be fused to only allow as much current as needed to do the job. You need to research this. Or make really sure the trailer hitch and wiring has a no chance of chafing the insulation off your wires. In addition to that, you probably don't want the deep discharge battery trying to start the bike as the current draw back to the bike may scorch the wires to the trailer.

A big diode would do the job but you would not have the full voltage to the dd battery as diodes have a constant voltage drop of between .6 to 1 volt. A better way would involve a relay that can only activate the DD battery when the motor is running. Maybe trigger off the oil light and the ignition system so it is disconnected when the bike is off. You could install an override switch to allow the DD to power some lights and the audio on the bike.

BTW, If you are pulling 105 amps you are eating up 4+ hp!!!

I have been looking all over but have not seen any photos of the Alt conversions. Can anyone post some active links to some photos, please?

Thank you from the very green mountains of Vermont.
VT Bikeman
 
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