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I'd bet your voltmeter is telling the awful truth, but there is a chance the failure is in the wiring or the rectifier/regulator or possibly a shorted cell or two in the battery. Check out the battery first since it's the easiest to do something about.One problem now is that you can't easily disconnect the stator to check the windings. You could check the voltage with a sharp probe on a voltmeterwhile the stator is connected to the bike. You will probably find a lower voltage since the coils will be under load. The hitch is that if you find one or more dead it willprobably be necessary to cut the wires free again to get a better look.
 

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ccsailor wrote:
have a look at my much plagerized post and go thru the steps
I'm hoping this is just a bit of misspelled humor, all these steps of checking the stator and charging system have been discussed by several on this forum long before June 2005
 

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hockeydad33 wrote:
Couldn't believe the readings so went out and did them again. Volts were about the same. 17, 24 and 35 volts. 0 ohms between the wires and 4 ohms from wires to ground (- post on battery). Does this mean what I think it does?
I suspect your resistance readings as Twisty does, you can't generate ANY voltage across a fully shorted coil.You might have had your ohmmeter on too high a resistance scale. It doesn't look good for your stator if you had your meter set for AC volts, there's too much variation between windings.

There's been a lot of discussion on the pros and cons of replacing the stator with a new (and perhaps improved) unit or modifying the bike with an automobile alternator. Both cost nearly the same to do, the auto conversion doesn't require removing the engine but will need a bit of tinkering while the stator replacement is a straight forward job. There are descriptions of both by fellows who've done both on the forum, do some searching and decide.
 

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hockeydad33 wrote:
I had checked the precious posts and tried to follow the posted guidelines. The meter I used was a snap-on digital meter that automatically sets itself (how I don't know) so I can't set it manually to redo the check. Might as well go buy one for myself and redo the tests. I was confused by the readings also and that is why I was posting the readings. Will get the meter yet today and retry the checks. Thanks everyone. Randy
I own Triplett and Fluke meters but carry a Harbor Freight digital VOM that I bought for five or six bucks. I'd recommend for the price vs performance, it's a good deal if you don't have a VOM of your own.
 

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hockeydad33 wrote:
I was looking at bikes on ebay and noticed a bike in Il. Only preapproved bidders allowed. Noticed that a number of times but usually for a yellow newer GW. I think I smell a skunk here, anyone else notice this. Randy
All the preapproved bidder type auctions I've seen on eBay are scams. They usually go along with an amazing Buy-it-now price too. Sadly there just isn't any free lunch!
 

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hockeydad33 wrote:
Do you need a lift for what I am possibly going to attempt? I hope it goes smoothly and maybe I can get it done in time to ride yet this fall for the great colors along the Mississippi River.
If you're referring to changing the stator you don't need a bike jack for the job. A full sized bike lift would be nice but it can be done with the bike on the floor.
 
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