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hockeydad33 wrote:
Couldn't believe the readings so went out and did them again. Volts were about the same. 17, 24 and 35 volts. 0 ohms between the wires and 4 ohms from wires to ground (- post on battery). Does this mean what I think it does?
hockeydad33, there is something skewed in your findings there.. You might want to verify your voltmeter/ohmmeter settings or make sure you are reading it correctly.

I seriously doubt you have 0 ohms between the wires with output readings of 17, 24, 35 volts. You will have show some resistance,, with 0 ohms you wouldn't even have that kind of voltage. Also I haven't EVER seen all 3 wires ohm out exactly thesame.

ARE YOU SURE you have disconnected (orcut) the 3 yellow wires running to the front (just in front of the battery)?

Are you using the AC (alternating current scale) on the voltmeter & using the 100 volt scale?

Are you testing for AC voltage BETWEEN the 3 wires?

Are you reading in Ohms, K ohms, or M ohms? What scale is your meter set on?

Maybe borrow a different voltmeter..

MAKE DARN sure the 3 yellow wires coming from the rear of the engine are trimmed back to GOOD CLEAN wire.. If you are testing on oxidised wire you will get crazy readings.

Something doesn't smell right there..

Twisty
 

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hockeydad33 wrote:
I had checked the previous posts and tried to follow the posted guidelines. The meter I used was a snap-on digital meter that automatically sets itself (how I don't know) so I can't set it manually to redo the check. Might as well go buy one for myself and redo the tests. I was confused by the readings also and that is why I was posting the readings. Will get the meter yet today and retry the checks. Thanks everyone. Randy
Randy, most of those auto tracking meters can be set toa desired scale but some are not that easy to figure out how to do it (probably hold a function button down until it beeps or something similar).. It really doesn't matter as the reading you obtained was probably followed by either a K or an M or maybe the Omega SIGN.

You really don't need much of a meter to do the tests. I have a high dollar digital Fluke for very exact readings but have a few el-cheapo DVOM's that I carry in each bike & even have one in my truck's tool kit. I believe I paid about $4.50 for the cheapest of the bunch from Harbor Freight. Those cheap meters will work just fine for a basic stator test & don't seem to show much difference than my high end meter. You probably should stick with a digital meter as the analogs are a little harder to test with unless you are familiar with the operation & use of the analog.

BE SURE YOU HAVE THOSE YELLOW WIRES DISCONNECTED FROM THE FRONT before testing.. Also allow the engine to rev up for a few minutes as it usually takes a short while for the stator to begin output after reving the engine. If your first tests showed the low reading first, then the mid reading, then the high reading last,suspect you didn't give it enough time to spool up before the test..

Added,, when checking the resistance of the stator wires don't use your fingers to hold the probes on the wires (you can hold one but not both), just the resistance of your body & damp fingers will show some resistance.

Twisty
 

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hockeydad33 wrote:
Well I wentand purchased a digital multimeter and redid the tests. With the meter set at it lowest ohm setting (200) the resistance read about.7 on every leg triple checked (this is with the key off, correct?) Voltage readbetween 18 on one leg to 28 on the highest leg. Ohm reading wires to ground were .9, .7, .6 again set on the 200 (lowest scale). Does this sound like I am doing it right? I am a real idiot when it comes to electrical as you can tell.
Randy, you did the tests on JUST the 3 pigtails coming from the rear of the engine correct? The wires were DEFINITELY disconnected from the front of the bike?

Those resistance readings are sort of consistent with the front wires still being hooked up.

IF so, you have a stator problem & will have to address that..

I did get rid of my previous solder joints and measured at the original yellow wires in case there was a bad solder joint.
Does this mean the wires were CUT APART for the tests? If not they MUST BE.. They cannot be soldered to the front wires or the test will be inaccurate..

Twisty
 

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hockeydad33 wrote:
Twisty,

Yes sir, they were cut apart for the test. Iwas just making reference to getting back to good wires to do the test since I maybe didn't do a good soldering job. I really do appreciate your patience and persistance in helping me get this sorted out. I was afraid it was the stator but a guy can always hope. I was surprised it happened just sitting or maybe I didn't notice it the last time I rode it. I was taking my wife out for dinner the last time I rode it and we were listening to some good music, had a nice dinner and a nice ride home. Looks like that is over for now. Not sure what I am going to do now. As much problems as I have doing the simple things you guys help me with I seriously doubt I could pull an engine and put it back in. Don't really know anyone around who has that ability either. Don't know if it is worth paying a dealer to do it. It only has 32500 miles on it and the paint is in really good shape. Has alot of extra chrome but no extra lights (I had taken the light bar off that goes around the back of the bike just for this very reason - didn't want to hurt the stator.) What to do oh what to do. Guess I will sleep on it and decide later. I really do appreciate all of the help. Randy
Randy, in your case with that low mileage on the bike your stator was probably damaged either by that 3 wire plug melting & allowing the inner terminals to short together, OR if that area never got that bad probably due to old age or acid in the engine oil eating the stator wire coating away. (the original stators were none too insulated so dirty oil can damage the stator coating).. Adding extra lights usually doesn'tdamage the stator but can lead to depleted batteries.

If you still want to ride, it sounds like your stator still has a little output so maybe add a second battery in one of the side bags just wired to the starter & ign coils & run the remainder on the main battery. With charging the battery's between uses it might allow for some long rides without any problems.

Pulling that engine isn't a real big deal but you must have a little mechanical experience & the correct tools.. Probably the biggest thing you will face is where everything goes back on if it's apart for a while.

You could add an external alternator but in my estimation that is as much or more work than pulling the engine..

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Rod wrote:
Hi I'm just reading of your plight As the ex prez said "I feel your pain" only I really do. I just finished paying for a new stator installed.....OucH anyway I read you had a cruise control installed and in reading in thisgreat site somewhere Isaw that a blownfuse on a speed control had caused his bike from charging....... ( you hope )... And If I'm not mistaken the stator puts out approx 50 volts AC on all three prongs of the dreaded yellow plug ( I could be wrong ) so you should not be checking for DC..........again there's plenty o people here can tell you much more than me...But check that fuse---Rod :cooldj: best of luck inyour future
Rod, he is testing the generatorstator disconnected from EVERYTHING on the bike so with it showing low (standing alone) the problem emanates from within the generator itself. Not sure howthe cruise fuse could effect the charging but even if true the generator isn't working good enough to send power even that far..

It's possible that cruise fuse could also power the voltmeter on those models so maybe that is where that fuse comes into play..

Twisty
 

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hockeydad33 wrote:
Well I just drowned my sorrow with 2, count them 2, frozen snicker bars. Don't feel any better but at least I had something good today.

Twisty, the connectors were not that bad and it ran for the last 2 -3 months with no problems. I changed oil 3 times in the last 3000 miles just to make sure I got any junk out of the engine in case the PO did not do a good job of changing oil although I have no reason to suspect this. It is just something I do when I get a used vehicle. Figure it can't hurt and it isn't all that expensive considering. I know that can't reverse previous damage but I figured it would prevent future problems. I was looking at bikes on ebay and noticed a bike in Il. Only preapproved bidders allowed. Noticed that a number of times but usually for a yellow newer GW. I think I smell a skunk here, anyone else notice this. Randy
Randy, I would think that any oil related stator damage was probably caused by storing all winter with acidic oil in the engine (not changed before storing).. On my personal bikes (not just the Honda) I ride the bike prior to storage, then while still hot, drain the oil & replace the filter, then pull the spark plugs & crank it until I see oil pressure (I do NOT start it again until spring).. I like to store with fresh oil that hasn't been run. I also NEVER start a bike during the winter as all that does is makes massive amounts of acid in the oil..

Twisty
 
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