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battery is only getting about 12.8 volts at 3000 rpm. the stator is putting out 66 ac all three yellow wires unhooked .checking each one to the other two so i think im good there.conection look good no sign of heatbut i went ahead and soider them.cleaned battery connection.already changed main fuse to a blade type fuse.any ideals were i should check next.
 

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Confirm that your battery will take & hold a good charge. Clean all connections & add a ground wire from the battery to the frame to ensure you have good current flow. Test the rec/reg & look closly at all those wires. That unit will also get hot.
 

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thanks i did not think about making sure it has a good ground.the wires on the rec\reg look new no sine of hot wires.ill check ground tommrow.
 

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ed-m, just another thought. You didn't say but do you have a lot of extra lights/accessories that are not OEM? The GL 1100 only has 300 watts available for electrical load.
 

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theres no extra lites on bike.last ride i went on was 300 miles charged perfect .but it was 100 plus degrees that day.ill see if i can look up how to check the rec/reg.from what ive read so far the rec/reg will over charge when it fails?
 

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ed m, note that temperatures out of the range of 65 F have a bad effect on lead acid cells. Verify all individual cells on the battery with a multi meter. When fully charged each cell should be the same around 2.25VDC. Since each cell is hooked up in series the voltage will be about 13.5.

During charging and depending on motor RPM and battery load voltage will varry from a high of 15 V to a low of 13.5. The battery has a nominal voltage of 12V but actual voltage swings from around 10-15 volts.

Over charging boils the H2O part of the electrolyte so only add pure water if the level is low. Clean the main terminals and do not grease them up. Verify that both the pos. and neg. cables are clean and in goog shape, no burns, no stiff wires, no missing strands.

A fully charged battery should start the bike at least 4X. Excessive starting current will drain the capacity of the battery and not only cause a dead battery a a very low voltage, so low that ignition voltage will drop.

The battery in size is from 20aH to 50aH, depending on its construction. All the primary cabling must be clean, tight and able to carry 100 A in order to start the bike and maintain a full charge from the alternator. All the secondary wiring must be just as good to properly control the primary circuits.

So routine electrical maintenance is as important as mechanical. All wires, connectors, cables, nuts and bolts, lights quick disconnects must be maintained...no ifs ands or buts. Older wings when they have deteriorated electrical components show symptoms of poor starting, poor charging, poor running and most owners blame things mechanical and spend far too much time chasing after the wrong thing.

If the bike is maintained as well electrically as mechanically, the operation of the older wing is flawless apart from its inherent and designed -n flaws. But these built-in problems are easier to live with than a bike that you simply do not enjoy and trust.

Remember that a 30 year old wing ages, structurally, mechanically, electrically as well as in looks. Look at every area.
 

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The gage in the fairing dash lies, alot. Check the voltage at the battery and I'm sure you will find 2V extra.

Maybe cleaning the wires in the dash will help.
 

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You said thatyour battery is only getting 12.8V at 3000RPM. The typical problem when one phase from the alternator is cut of.I had a similar problem,maximum 12.8V no matter howhigh RPM.All the three yellow wires(phases) from the stator checked with the multimeter and all seemed to be OK. Then I checked the rectifier and saw only two phases wereactually going there despite all the three yellow wires were apparently connected at the connector. The third one was actuallypassed somewhere towards the ignition switch and there cut of (by the PO). So I simply re attached it to the rectifier and (hopefully) resolved the problem.

I'm not saying that this is your problem, but it worth to check up.
 

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Check the voltage at the battery. I have a voltmeter installed on my 83 wired to the battery, and it'll show 14.5v at speed. When I first connected it to the fuse block, it was indicating 13.5v. At idle it had 11.4v which I knew wasn't correct...
 
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