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Driving back from the daughters house today check engine light came on. Everything runs fine just the light is on. What should I all check on? It has 142,400 on if that means anything.

Cal
 

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Monkey with a Football
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Driving or riding? Driving what?
Oil pressure is usually your first concern with a check engine light of any kind.
 

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On modern cars, the check engine light normally comes on when an oxygen sensor has malfunctioned.

Clearing the memory in the engine managements' ECU usually means just removing a fuse for a minute or two........(SEARCH ONLINE FORUMS SPECIFIC TO THE VEHICLE TO GET MORE INFORMATION)

If after the ECU is reset, and the light comes on again, it is time to put the vehicle onto a diagnostic and pinpoint the problem....................and then get it fixed.

Just my 2 cents.
 

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Yep, theOxy sensor is about one of the most common faults causing the check engine light to come one. It's located in a tough environment right in the hot exhaust stream. Carbon and corrosion are its worst enemies. You can pay a shop to read your computer (ECU) and get an estimate of the repair needed. You could just replace the oxygen sensor, they aren't terribly expensive and are usually reasonably accessible. With the mileage on the vehicle even if that wasn't your immediate problem the sensor is probably getting a bit tired by now. It will pay to correct the problem either way since some systems go into 'get home' mode when a sensor fails which will reduce power and fuel mileage.
 

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Auto Zone will do a diagnostic readout for free. My wife had an object hit the underside of her car on the interstate. I suspected the oxygen senser. Went to Auto Zone and they slapped their fancy device on and confirmed it. Dasterdly fellow that I am though I went and bought the senser at Advance Auto as it was half the price..:doh:
 

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Monkey with a Football
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retiredintime wrote:
Auto Zone will do a diagnostic readout for free. My wife had an object hit the underside of her car on the interstate. I suspected the oxygen senser. Went to Auto Zone and they slapped their fancy device on and confirmed it. Dasterdly fellow that I am though I went and bought the senser at Advance Auto as it was half the price..:doh:
Advance does the same thing. You could have saved one stop.
 

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Now that the emoticons are FINALLY loaded . . . . . . . . . . . . !! :p



Another thing that can set the light off is loose gas cap. Not to mention various other things. Have a friend that had a check engine light go on, and it turned out to be a pump failure in the trans. Dodge Dakota. So, if it's a cage with power train type ecu, it could be a trans problem.
 

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well, since the 1500 does not have a check engine light, it could be anything.
 

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Matt, if that there solo red light on the 1500 does come on, that would be cause for "check engine", literally. :(
 

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Went to Autozone last week and had mine checked. They told me my gas cap was bad. Bought a new one and the light stayed on. The guy said, "oh, it'll take awhile for the light to go out, because your engine has to adjust". Right, dumb ass. Tonight, the light went out. :blushing:
 

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mikef wrote:
Went to Autozone last week and had mine checked. They told me my gas cap was bad. Bought a new one and the light stayed on. The guy said, "oh, it'll take awhile for the light to go out, because your engine has to adjust". Right, dumb ass. Tonight, the light went out. :blushing:
Funny part is they can use the same device to reset it.

I used to have them do that for me just before going to the inspection station. Until I registered it in a neighboring county that didn't require EPA testing. :dude:
 

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Put some kind of sticker over it and pretend it is not there. :D Kit
 

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Don"t laugh, Kit. We actually had a Cat customer that took a Mikita drill, and drilled the warning LED out with about a 1/4 bit. We had to replace the entire module, because he destroyed the circuit board. $$$$$$$$ :cheeky1::cheeky1:
 

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mikef wrote:
Went to Autozone last week and had mine checked. They told me my gas cap was bad. Bought a new one and the light stayed on. The guy said, "oh, it'll take awhile for the light to go out, because your engine has to adjust". Right, dumb ass. Tonight, the light went out. :blushing:
The cars ECU must detect two events of failure before it throws a code. Once the code is thrown, the ECU must detect three start/run cycles with no failure event before it will cancel the trwown code. I bought my ownOBD reader, and find it very useful--so do my neighbours and friends. Emmission system failures would be a very close second to the O2 sensor, IMO.
 

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Old Broad
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That's why I like Chrysler. All you need is the list of codes and then turn the ignition on & off 3 times and then count the codes. No gizmos to hook up or stealerships to go to.:D:D:D:D:D:bat::bat::bat::bat::bat::cooldevil::cooldevil::cooldevil::cooldevil:
 

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That can be done with all OBD11 systems, altho a jumper wire needs to be inserted in the diagnostic connector many times.. It's not good for those who can't count !!:cheeky1: :cheeky1:
 

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I have 2 ways to read the codes on my ford Ranger P/U. The 1 st one is the handheld OBDII reader that also lets me reset the codes. The other is an OBDII adapter cable for my laptop.

Using a laptop to read it while running is fun and easier to do than with the handheld as I can see a graph readout for quite a bit of information. I'm using about 3 different, free software programs for it.

Now if I really wanted to have some fun with the laptop I could pay 400 bucks for actual tuning software to use with the laptop that would allow me to re-tune the ECU for better performance and gas mileage. Most companies de-tune the vehicle's ECU to meet EPA smog standards to the point that you can re-tune it for better performance and mileage yet still meet the standards and pass most state's testing.
 
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