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:baffled: my bike occassionally has a clatter in the driveline, seems like its from the drive shaft, but I cannot be sure. It happens when I decelerate, in gear or neutral, doesn't matter. It happened once when I was going about 60mph, and the shuddering was so bad, I almost peed my pants. Any clue? Some non wing people here at homehave suggested the U-Joint.
 

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Hi avnsteve, welcome

Sure does sound like the U/J, normally though you'll geta knock when pulling away/slowing down

Pull back the rubber gaterby the engine, either get someone to hold down the rear brake pedalOR put the bike into top gear, grab the U/Jand try to twist the two parts of the U/J any movement will indicate wear in the cross tee's, time for a replacement.

Other problems could be the bearings in the final drive and/orwear on the splines.

I'm sure there will be plenty more advice

good luck
 

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You can check the UJ easy by getting someone to gently rock the back wheel and looking at the amount of play in the joint.
 

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thanks guys, I was reasonably sure that was it, I just wanted some verification. Does anyone know of a way around the "special Honda tool" for the swingarm bolt?
 

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Hi again,

get a large socket the same size as the 'speacial' nut and cut two tangs to match opposite slots (you could cut four but why make things complicated) file down to narrow the tangs.

Hey presto there you go your own 'speacial ' tool because it's a socket you can use your Torque wrench when tightening up.

Hope you can see my garbage drawing!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
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OK, got a (not quite) new U-joint and a new dust boot. They are installed, no probs. The driveshaft gave me some fits, but I installed the final drive to the swingarm, then inserted the D/S from the front, then the U-joint. I chose this method since the swingarm was loose anyway, I didn't feel like wrestling with the D/S and Ujoint alignment fiasco. It worked great. Final drive and wheel are back on and I'm gonna try to bleed the brakes tonight. Any tips on bleeding? I have seen several posts on the topic, but if you have anything immediately pressing to this effect, I'd appreciate it.



S
 

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bleeding brakes is never any fun, but it always opens the opportunity for a bonding experience with your significant other, I guess there are special pumps and gadgets you can use, but I have always had a helper step on the pedal, then I released the pressure etc... over and over... make SURE you wipe up any spilt brake fluid as it will ruin paint.

I have noticed over the years one fluid most people never think to change on a regular basis is brake fluid... keeping it clean prolongs the life of the brake components (and maybe yours as well!). Also, if your bike sits all winter, occassionally apply the brakes this will help keep the calipers and cylinders in good condition.:weightlifter:
 

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thanks Matt, all good points...
 

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avnsteve wrote:
It worked great. Final drive and wheel are back on and I'm gonna try to bleed the brakes tonight. Any tips on bleeding? I have seen several posts on the topic, but if you have anything immediately pressing to this effect, I'd appreciate it.
So what did the U-joint you took out look like? As for bleeding you can make it an easy one man job with Speed Bleeders.
 

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Sorry, must have hit the button twice! Be nice if we could delete our posts as well as edit them.
 

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the old ujoint had the obvious damage around it's circumference, and it was nearly void of grease and quite stiff. Clearly the problem.
 

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Yep, sure sounds like it! Nice to find an obviously defective part.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
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very nice, I was afraid to get the ujoint out and discover nothing wrong with it! At least I can eliminate that problem, and btw, the swingarm bearings were in fine shape.
 

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Looks like I'm gonna have to do the U-Joint on my 85 Aspy next week. It's making a clicking/knocking noise on deceleration. Any idea what size socket I should buy and cut down for the Swingarm Locknut?

Thanks,

TDS
 

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1 1/8" should do it. Be advised you'll probably need a 2' breaker bar for the other side. It doesn't have the special nut, but it's torqued to some astronomical value. I could not get it loose with my impact wrench and gallons of penetrant. a 2' breaker bar with 1/2" drive and a 3' cheater attached to that gave me enough leverage to break the torque. good luck to you!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
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also I might suggest you use a deep well socket in case you need to make another attempt at the "custom grind" a longer socket will afford you a few attempts. :D
 

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avnsteve wrote:
the old ujoint had the obvious damage around it's circumference, and it was nearly void of grease and quite stiff. Clearly the problem.
years ago on my '78 I had a rear end clatter (after riding a bit) so I replaced the rear drive shaft even though it looked good.... turned out to be bad bearings in the rear wheel... Among the many of the "parts" lying around my garage I still have the original drive shaft
 

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Are there grease fittings on these U-joints? I just got my 82 GL1100A and I've done all maintenance by the Clymers manual. But you know that's not all inclusive. I don't have any noise there, but I'd like to prevent pre-mature wear by lubing the U-joints.
 

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cardkev, no grease fittings. You would have to physically take them apart to inspect andlubricate them, (although Spicer Corporation may have a heavy duty replacement u joint that may fit and it would use a needle type of lubricator fitting.) You would have to take your old Honda u joint to a Spicer dealer so they could cross reference it over to a heavy duty u joint.

Vic
 

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If you happen to change the joint on your Wing you should always mark the orientation of each section so that it can go back together in exactly the same position so that it maintains the factory balance otherwise it may vibrate. Also, make sure that the u joint caps are pushed outwards into the retainers, away from the crossso that there is no binding which may cause heat build up and premature failure of the new u joint.

avnsteveI love your avatar. What model of chopper is that?

Vic
 
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