[1200bikes]

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hi all near&far,i have a clicking noise eminating from the final drive,this noise has been on the bike for a few months now im looking to remove it,could it be lack of diff oil?i have 80 grade oil off my silverwing will this be ok,many thanks all,BRI.

 

[Shooter]

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It could be low lube level, I also use 80 weight in my final drive. Don't let it go too long, as parts become quite costly...:gunhead:

 

[exavid]

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There's a good chance it's the rubber dampers and driven flange pins making that kind of noise. SAE80 is what's called for by Honda in the Honda shop manual.

 

[07Silver]

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It would bevery helpfulif we knew what Goldwing model you have BRI. If its a GL1200, clicking diffs was common. Change the oil first, if the clicking stops or sounds different, then you will know it's either a diff bearing or the flange that is worn. If the noise stays the same then it could be either be the splines on the wheel or worn wheel bearings or the drive flane pins as Paul says.

 

[rcmatt007]

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does the clicking noise happen all the time... and when the bike is on the center stand? I had rear wheel bearings go out on my 1000 and I would only get the sound after riding a bit and they heated up

 

[welsh winger]

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Hi 1200bikes,

there was a problem with 1200s up until 1984, where the bearings would wearthe wheel itself away, making the fit sloppy,then they would make a clicking noise, more noticeable when rolling in reversebest sorted sooner than later as if left it does wear the splines.



welsh winger

 

[1200bikes]

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hi all,many thanks for your quick replys,my bike is the 1984 1200 aspencade special edition with 67000mls on the clock,i have another querie how long and how frustrating is the rear wheel to remove?much appreciated BRI , SUNDERLAND N.E. ENGLAND.

 

[rcmatt007]

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removing the wheel is mostly tricky in that the tyre (opps that is tire) is fatter than the space... after you put the bike on the center stand, deflat the tire, it will make it easier

 

[JOHNO]

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Sounds likethe clicking could be the wheel bearing slipping inside the housing, this was a warranty corrected fault on 1200's but, as usual loads got away without the work being done, see 1984 GL1200i Rear Wheel Noise on this forum for more info.

Once the left pannier is clear remove brake caliper and support it on a bungee, you may have to remove the silencers depending on type of exhaust (motads you don't) the lower rear mudguard(fender) and tow hitch if fitted are removed.The worst bit is removing the lower right suspension bolt, normally seized and chewed up by previous removals, the bolt costs about £8 to replace. (you can take the wheel off without takingthe suspension bolts out but makes it a lot harder to line the wheel back up)apart from that the internal spacer between wheel and diff sometimes sticks and needs some strategic prodding to get the wheel clear. You might find a small bottle jack or something similar handy to jack the swing arm to line up the axle when replacing the wheel.

Time wise, if nothing is broken/siezed and it's your first time allow about 2hrs for removal and same for assembly, with practise and greased bolts30mins each way.

 

[rcmatt007]

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forgot to add that getting the axle out is tricky as the wheel/swingarm needs to be lifted up so the axle will clear the mufflers... my 1200 has a hack so I am able to use a jack to lift and lower the bike for this... don't forget to grease up all the splines when you reassemble. Hopefully the splins where the rear wheel attaches to the rear end are not wore out... don't know if honda still makes them but they are pricey to replace

 

[rcmatt007]

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just looked up prices on www.bikebandit.com rear gear set approximately $300, rear flange for wheel about $150

 

[exavid]

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rcmatt007 wrote:

just looked up prices on http://www.bikebandit.com rear gear set approximately $300, rear flange for wheel about $150

I'd be hunting a low mileage 1500 rear end and modifying to install if I needed a whole new drive. It was mentioned on this forum that you can do that on a 1200. It probably would be cheaper. You also can find 1200 rear drives on eBay. First things first though, get it out and see what exactly is making the noise, might not need a full rebuild.

 

[fg1956]

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Can you elaborate on how easily a 2000 GL1500 rear end would fit into an 84 GL1200A?I'm willing and able to do metal fabrications, but don't want this to turn into a major project. The bike has 49K miles, I have the klunk when starting in first gear. I'll probally get to tearing the rear end apart this weekend, so I haven't accessed the problems yet. This thread has enough warnings that your suggestion to an 1500 rear end is appealing.

 

[ccsailor]

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fg1956 wrote:

Can you elaborate on how easily a 2000 GL1500 rear end would fit into an 84 GL1200A?I'm willing and able to do metal fabrications, but don't want this to turn into a major project. The bike has 49K miles, I have the klunk when starting in first gear. I'll probally get to tearing the rear end apart this weekend, so I haven't accessed the problems yet. This thread has enough warnings that your suggestion to an 1500 rear end is appealing.

I have the same clunk So far I've totally rebuilt the rear shocks incuding the replacing the rubber mounting rings both ends I have a final drive on its way(thanks to Teacher) and will replace that early next week as well as replace the drive shaft If the clunk still there don't know what else to try (u-joint has no play)

 

[RedWinger]

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[ccsailor]

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Great advice on clicking but oh great guru do you have any on the clunk

 

[RedWinger]

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[ccsailor]

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which of course means an engine teardown?/ Or leave it alone Some one said doesn't matter all that much??/

 

[RedWinger]

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[Hawker22]

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I have been quite convinced for some time now that the "clunk" on starting out in first gear is exactly the torque dampener in the final drive. I would even say that the design of this dampener would suggest that it is actually supposed to clunk a bit.--moreso as that big spring weakens and perhaps the cam begins to wear in a bit.