[Ken Tripp]

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I'm still working on my 84int project. Took it out for a spin and drives like a dream. Gears seem a bit clunky though.

My question is how should the hydraulic clutch feel? I've cleaned out and bled it without any problems. It is definitely very stiff and don't believe it is a bleeding problem. It feels like it only engages and disengages at the very last bit of travel.

Is this normal? I've never used a hydraulic clutch on a motorcycle before, just cable. It has about 51K according to the speedo, but don't want to trust that. Is the clutch life near end?

What's normal?

Thanks, Ken

 

[englishted]

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If you have a good feel to the lever and you have to plull it in all the way to engage, then the clutch itself is probably not too far from wearing out.

 

[Ken Tripp]

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Ted,

Just the opposite, it engages/disengages just before full end point swing in the handle. At the point to when I barley squeeze the handle it disengages/engages.


Again this maybe totally normal, just have nothing to compare it to.

 

[englishted]

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If that's the case then you have a full good clutch!

 

[Ken Tripp]

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Great!! Thanks,

 

[Muffy]

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I have an 85 Aspencade and you discribe exactly how my clutch is now. I had the reverse problem a week ago or so when the clutch was disengaging at the handle bar and sometimes not at all. I bled the banjo bolt on the bar, added fluid and now it works great and feels just like you say. Mine is fine now and if yours feels the same, yours should be fine also.

If all else fails, WING IT!

 

[twisty]

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Ken Tripp wrote:

I'm still working on my 84int project. Took it out for a spin and drives like a dream. Gears seem a bit clunky though.

My question is how should the hydraulic clutch feel? I've cleaned out and bled it without any problems. It is definitely very stiff and don't believe it is a bleeding problem. It feels like it only engages and disengages at the very last bit of travel.

Is this normal? I've never used a hydraulic clutch on a motorcycle before, just cable. It has about 51K according to the speedo, but don't want to trust that. Is the clutch life near end?

What's normal?

Ken, the clutch hand lever should feel firm with no mushy feel. Where in the travel it engage depends largely on clutch plate warpage, thickness of the engine oil, clutch plate temperature. How much wear you have in the hand lever pivots & the little push rod bushing in the hand lever can also have a big effect on the release point. Your clutch release point sounds close to where my 1200 clutch releases when hot.

As far as the clunky shifting? I asked that same question when I got my 1200 & got some mixed answers. In reading back through the archives I ran across a posting on that same complaint. There was a response on that one to PREOAD the foot shift lever BEFORE de-clutching for the shift. That action has taken all the clunkiness out of my upshifting.

Twisty

 

[JOHNO]

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Hi ken,

on the clunky shift, you'll find it hard to engage neutral or firstif your idle speed is low, try to set it up so idle is about 900rpm-950rpm then you might find it a bit easier.

 

[Ken Tripp]

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Twisty,

When you mean preload, just put a little pressure on it then shift?

Thanks all for the answers.


I looked at the bushings but suppose they could be wore some. The clutch lever has very firm resistance throughout thewhole throw. I had concern that the clutch was at it's end but from the above posts, it's the opposite.


Ken

 

[twisty]

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Ken Tripp wrote:

Twisty,

When you mean preload, just put a little pressure on it then shift?

Thanks all for the answers.


I looked at the bushings but suppose they could be wore some. The clutch lever has very firm resistance throughout thewhole throw. I had concern that the clutch was at it's end but from the above posts, it's the opposite.

Ken, yes, just put a little up pressure on the shift lever (about 1/2 the pressure needed to shift), then as you de-clutch it will kind smoothly jump into the next gear. With a little practice it will shift smooth & quietly (at last mine does).

On your clutch release position? The closer that moves to the bar the less release you are getting. See how it goesfrom neutral into gear when warm. If you can easily put into gear the clutch is releasing cleanly. (don't count the first time into neutral in the morning as they all clack pretty loudly there.

Twisty

 

[Renegade]

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How many miles are on the engine? Have the clutch plates ever been replaced?

Clutch engagement & disengagement should be smooth and consistant all the way thru the lever travel.. An idication of worn plates is if the clutch disengages early in the lever travel, and late during the engagement travel. In other words, if you get clutch grab towards the end when letting the lever out, the plates are worn and should be replaced. A spongy or loose feelwhen squeezing the lever is a good indication of air in the lines.

When bleeding the clutch system, I have actually had to pull the clutch slave cylinder off the ingine and pointthe bleederupwards to get all the air out, but only in rare instances.

In your state, at this time of year, the engine oil should be 10w/40w. This will allow the clutch plates to slip properly and run cooler..

 

[Ken Tripp]

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Clock says 52K. No idea about the plates. The guy I bought it from didn't have time for the 'project'. He just sold it to me for what he paid for it. Been sitting in his gar.

The handle is firm through the whole pull. The clutch disengages/enages at the point where you just pull on it and just before you let it go.

I'm running 10/40 in it now.