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Well I just picked up my first gold wing.Its a 1986 1200. After the bike gets warm its hard to get into gear and neutral. I read that I might try changing the clutch fluid. Now my question is what fluids should I use for all of these??

Clutch fluid??

Brake Fluid??I just want the normal oil for this bike,not synthetic. Also what is the oil filter number?I am hoping to get this all done tonight.

Coolant??

Also can someone explain where to drain and fill all of these at?Also the best way to bleed everything.Thanks in advance for all the responses!
 

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1986gw wrote:
Well I just picked up my first gold wing.Its a 1986 1200. After the bike gets warm its hard to get into gear and neutral. I read that I might try changing the clutch fluid. Now my question is what fluids should I use for all of these??

Clutch fluid??

Brake Fluid??I just want the normal oil for this bike,not synthetic. Also what is the oil filter number?I am hoping to get this all done tonight.

Coolant??

Also can someone explain where to drain and fill all of these at?Also the best way to bleed everything.Thanks in advance for all the responses!
:waving::waving:Welcome to the Best Goldwing Site on the Net!:waving::waving:

Brake and clutch fluid is DOT4. Good idea to flush and replace. Be careful, the stuff eats paint.

I use Prestone Extended Life, Honda automobile coolant sold by dealers is good. Make SURE whatever you use doesn't have silicates because you will be replacing a waterpump soon after if you use coolants with that additive.

The oil filter is a cartridge type, I've only used Honda replacements.

Get a copy of Clymers if you're going to work on your bike, it isn't as good as the Honda service manual but usually cheaper. Amazon carries them. Honda manuals can often be found on eBay, I just got one for my 1500 yesterday for $30.
 

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I will have to get those books..Is there any quick way you can tell me how to change those 3 real fast.I was hoping to get it all flushed and ready to go tonight.Thanks for the quick reply.
 

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Only way to do it fast i know of is GET ON IT and GETER DONE.

Actually it should not take long couple hours really is all.

My:12black: was going into first hard also with a big clunk and the bike would jump forward a little bit after sitting overnight:?. It was getting better slowley:baffled:..........But after i switched to synthetic the problim has almost went away.... and the old girl even sounds better to:clapper:

The only hard part i can remember is getting the radiator cap off. The dang thing is hidden and very hard to get to:crying:

Pat
 

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1986gw wrote:
I will have to get those books..Is there any quick way you can tell me how to change those 3 real fast.I was hoping to get it all flushed and ready to go tonight.Thanks for the quick reply.
the toughest thing about changing the clutch fluid is to NOT, repeat NOT allow the reservoir to go empty or you will do lots of gyrations and other almost obscene actions trying to get it primed again.... other wise, the drain is on the back left side of the engine and is like brakes... I use DOT 4

I have alsways used coolant that is rated for aluminum engines with good results... but if you want a BIG discusion on this forumn start one on colants (LOL)
 
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Hey 1986gw :waving: Welcome to the best forum on the net. :clapper: When these guys get your problems sorted. :weightlifter:please update your profile and complete the LOCATION slot. :jumper:

:walker: :18red: :walker:
 

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Hi, :waving:let us all know your location so we can help, differant area's use differant products!!!!
 

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I am in Michigan.

I just picked up some dot4 fluid and oil filter.I am going to change the oil and filter tonight and go from there! I am hoping for the best.
 

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I went to bleed the clutch and I am almost postivie that bleeder screw is not there?? I see a small tiny hole where i think its suppose to be.
 

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If that's the case then you will have to remove the slave cylinder and if the bleed valve has been broken off you will need to drill out the broken part, retap and replace the valve.
 

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1986gw wrote:
I am in Michigan.
Hey 1986gw :waving: Will you please enter Michigan in the LOCATION slot on your profile. :clapper:

:weightlifter: :18red: :weightlifter:
 

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some times a left handed drill bit will pull out snaped of bleaders.no it not a joke you run the drill in reverse and the bit gos in and hope fully it will grab the bleeder and bring it out you should be able to find ont wear ever dewalt tools are sold but i think the are called rverse bits or some thing they do make them i have a set so dont let the guy at home demo or lowes tell you some one is pulling your leg.
 

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didn't someone mention usinga syrenge with tubing on it to force fluid into the bleeder, rather than draining down? Since air likes to go up, I would expect that this method would expell any that was in the system with mych more ease.
 

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Okay --- so the Honda dealership spent 2 hours trying to bleed the brake system on my 1200. Here's where we stand. I have to pump the front brake lever like 3 times before I have any kind of good pressure.

Bike is going back in next week to get this figured out. If anyone has a better idea, please let me know.



THAnk you!!!
 

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Sounds like:1. Master cylinder is damaged, needs rebuilding and/or a hone-job.     2. Slave cylinders are damaged, needs rebuilding and/or a hone job.     3. The pins that the brake pads slide on are dirty / gummed up. Clean them really good, and then put the calipers back together.     4. There is no air in the system, but your hoses are old and balloon when you pull on the brake.
 

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Both front calipers were rebuilt.

No other issues with brake system prior to it going into the dealership.

Rear brake pedal and system is now good. Think I just need to ride the bubbles outta it hahah
 

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hold the brakes on hard and tie the lever to the handlebar or if it's the rear weigh down the foot brake and leave overnight.

sometimes this can remove the micro air bubbles in the system.

Having just rebuilt my brakes with new lines, pistons and seals, I found one of the calipers had a crack in the body.........still waiting forthe replacement to arrive.

how and when did the crack happen I've no idea, but could of caused a few problems at 80 on the highway!
 

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Thanks -- I will try that. The front brake is not about 50% of original on lever throw, but it continues to get better.
 

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Two possibilities come to mind with your front brakes. Notwithstanding the Honda shop's 2 hour effort to bleed them, obviously they didn't get the air out. Cracking the banjo bolts, especially the one at the top can often release a bit of air trapped in the master cylinder. Loosen the banjo bolt while the lever is squeezed down and let any fluid and air escape into a rag wrapped around the fitting to keep the fluid off the paint. Make sure the caliper bleeder can flow freely when open and isn't partially plugged by corrosion.

If you still have problems bleeding the front brake, open the master reservoir and make sure the port in the bottom of the reservoir, the one closest to the brake line isn't plugged. It's a very small hole in the bottom of a larger hole. If this is plugged it's difficult to get all the air out of the master cylinder.
 

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One other thing... Air could be entering around the threads of the bleeder screw. Take it out, and wrap a few turns of teflon pipe tape around the threads, then reinstall the bleeder, and start again. Also, try forcing the fluid INTO the bleeder using a large syrenge, and a length of clear tubing. Just keep an eye on the resivoir, as it will fill up and overflow if you don't drain it out.
 
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