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I just finished disassembling, cleaning and reassembling my 1500's clutch master cylinder. I last flushed the fluid in September 2006 when I also flushed the brake system. I've noticed the sight glass on the clutch had darkened awhile back so decided to check it. I was very surprised to find a lot of black gunk in the master reservoir. When I drained out the fluid it came out clean then turned grey. That pretty well told me that the slave cylinder had been clean but the master was really fouled. The brake fluid looked okay. The point of all this is to check your clutch fluid more often than the brakes. I suspect the fouling was caused by the fact that the clutch gets more of a workout over time than the brakes.



FYI the clutch master cylinder kit for the 1500 and 1200 are the same.
 

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Very good point Paul, thanks for putting out the word.
 

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thats good useful knowledge......thank you,



thats if i can remember it when the time comes :cheeky1:



mark:waving:
 

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Exavid, I have a question about the clutch master cylinder. Hopefully this makes sense. I decided to change the fluid for all the brakes and clutch today. Just like you, I discovered a lot of gunk in the clutch master cylinder. More so than any of the brake master cylinders. As I was cleaning all the gunk out, I must have knocked a small metal piece free in the bottom of clutch master cylinder. A quick check of the microfiche and I found out that it is called a "protector". I saw a similar thing in the front brake master cylinder. It was fitted into the depression for the hole at the bottom and a flat semicircle side extended out. I noticed on the clutch side, there were 2 holes, one in the depression and one off to the side. I pressed open side back in snug also in the depression and the semi circular side covered the other hole. I didn't know if it was supposed to be fully pushed down or just pushed in snug. Do you by chance know what this does and what is the proper way to install it?
 

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The only reason for the "protector" is to prevent the master from shooting fluid at you if you squeeze the lever with the top off the reservoir. I dropped the thing and hunted all over the floor until I found it sitting on top of the workbench right beside the master cylinder. It really was surprising how much grunch ends up in the clutch. I think a flush every year for that would be worth while. When I get back from Montrose I'll replace the rubber parts in the slave cylinder too. I don't think much if any of that crud got down into it but I'll feel better if I remove it and see what's inside.
 

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Right, the clutch fluid gets pretty grungy more so than the brakes. I have been toying with replacing my clutch line with steel braided hose. I'm sure these old ones would expand some like the brake lines only less pressure. I put steel braided hoses on my old CB 750 and could'nt believe the difference. I have been replacing myclutch fluid every year just because. Has anyone done the clutch line in steel braid? Paul
 

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While we are on the subject- I too am flushing the master cyls out- I can only find brake fluid that says "DOT 3&4" or DOT 5---I have always run DOT 4 but am having trouble finding it- all the bike shops have DOT 5 and the Auto stores have the combined fluid--- which way to go here?
 

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mrwoodboat, I get mine at Walmart or Advance Auto. Paul
 

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I suggest upon changing the brake and master fluids that lint free rags and contact cleaner are used. Take caps/covers off and take a turkey baster and pull out old fluid best you can. Next, take the contact cleaner on a rag and use to clean reservoir(s) out /get gunk out. Then useQ tips with contact cleaner to get the gunk out of the casting marks. Now the reservoirs are clean and fill with DOT 4 and rinse/bleed systems till clean and air free. I do this every winter. Hint: to :complete" this job, take 12mm top and 10mm bottom bolt out that keeps brake and clutch levers in place. Take rag with contact cleaner on it and clean mating area of perches. Lube cruise control cancel switch, master cylinder plunger and stop light switch also. Clean and grease both levers and reinstall. Upon tighten 12mm screws, check for lever to return full off..not binding. Once correct adjustment is made, lock bolt in place with bottom 10mm nut. You will not believe the smooth operation/quite throw of the levers AND your front pads might last longer. I do this EVER winter and all bikes I service have NEVER had this done. I also lube choke and throttle cables at same time and grease plastic throttle barrel at same time, every winter.
 

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mrwoodboat wrote:
....I can only find brake fluid that says "DOT 3&4" ...I have always run DOT 4 but am having trouble finding it- ....
All DOT 4 fluid is backwards compatible to DOT 3 so when marked as 3&4, it is really DOT 4 fluid.. I wouldn't worry about the markings.. the primary difference is the temperature rating.. DOT 4 resists higher temperatures than DOT 3..
 
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