Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

1 - 20 of 43 Posts

·
Premium Member
1978 GL1000
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I recently had a situation I've seen described here before where I pulled in the clutch lever, and there was a snapping sound as though the clutch cable broke, but the clutch was stuck disengaged. The cable wasn't actually broken.

I read where the fix is to adjust the clutch lifter. So I followed the procedure, but after loosening the lock nut when I turn the adjuster screw, it doesn't "bottom out". Instead if I turn the adjuster screw enough, the lifter arm and the part it is attached to (possibly part 6 in the fiche below) begin to move. I'm guessing that is not the expected behavior. Is that the expected behavior?

Second thing, and probably more important, after making the adjustment, the same problem recurs. At some point pulling in the clutch lever results in the "snapping" noise and the lifter "arm" sticks in an up position and the clutch remains disengaged. If I manually tap the lifter "arm" down it snaps back into place and the clutch is engaged.

Any ideas about what is broken? (I'm guessing any of parts 8, 6, 9, and 7 listed on this fiche)
324013


Any ideas about how to further investigate? (I'm guessing remove the clutch cover and see what looks broken.)

Possibly stupid question: Do I have to drain the oil to remove the clutch cover?

Cheers,
Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
280 Posts
Loosen cable adjustments before adjusting the the the screw and lock nut. Loosen the screw and get the lever back to its normal position, then adjust the screw until it stops and the lever is tight then back it off 1/4 turn and tighten the lock nut. Now adjust the cable. If it's not adjusted right it will cam over so the ball set drops in the next position and make a snap noize.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
1978 GL1000
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Loosen cable adjustments before adjusting the the the screw and lock nut. Loosen the screw and get the lever back to its normal position, then adjust the screw until it stops and the lever is tight then back it off 1/4 turn and tighten the lock nut. Now adjust the cable. If it's not adjusted right it will cam over so the ball set drops in the next position and make a snap noize.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
Thanks for the feedback sproketrocket55. I actually did loosen all the cable adjustments before adjusting the screw and lock nut.

What are you saying is going to "cam over"? Maybe I don't have the lever back in its normal position. How would I tell that the lever is in its normal position? It is as far down as it can go and the spring that is attached to the arm is completely compressed.

When I adjust the screw it does stop eventually, but at that point the lever and the piece it is attached to aren't flush with the clutch cover anymore. Is that normal? Should adjusting the screw pull that part and the lever out of the clutch cover?

Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
280 Posts
I think so because it is putting pressure on the clutch. If the cable pulls lever to far it cams over and stays there and the cable will be loose.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
280 Posts
It's can be tricky holding the screw while tightening the lock nut. It may take a couple tries. You need a little free play in the lever so as not to be riding the clutch.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
280 Posts
The 3 balls in #9 fit into the holes in #7. When you pull in the clutch the balls roll out of the holes and release the clutch that's the cam action. If it moves to far the balls fall in the next position over the cam into the holes again.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,828 Posts
Is it possible the cable partially broke and jammed in the cable housing holding the clutch disengaged? Is there any slack in the cable at the lever? Might you be pulling the jammed up cable free from the cable housing when you tap on the lever? Get it back to it's normal position and rotate the lever somehow other than the cable/ If it works OK buy a cable.
 

·
Premium Member
1978 GL1000
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I adjusted the lifter again. This time I just kept turning the adjustment screw even though it seems to pull the piece the arm attaches to out of the clutch cover. Then backed it off the 3/4 turn and tightened the lock nut. Then I adjusted the cable being sure to leave about 3/4" play at the end of the clutch lever. So far so good as far as not camming over with the bike parked in my garage. Haven't checked how the clutch now works in operation.

As a bit of background. I bought the bike this Saturday, and found it hard to shift. At the time I noticed that the cable adjuster at the handlebar was screwed all the way out. So I turned that in quite a bit and adjusted the other end of the cable to take up the slack. Then the bike was then easier to shift. I think my cable adjustment may have been the source of the problem in the first place. I suspect I didn't leave enough play at the lever and this caused me to get unlucky that one time with the camming over which left the clutch disengaged until I fiddled with the lifter arm. Does my cable adjustment sound like a reasonable source of the problem?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
280 Posts
With cam properly adjusted it would not cam over unless you really tightened the cable adjusters. I don't remember the specs but 3/4 turn and 3/4 play sounds like too much.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
280 Posts
I read the article and final adjustment Is 1/4 Inch at the end of the handle. That's why I said it sounded like too much.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
1978 GL1000
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Whoops! I see I did not read carefully enough. Thanks for the correction!
 

·
Premium Member
1978 GL1000
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Okay, so I think I adjusted the clutch according to the procedure as best one can. Still I'm experiencing what I'm guessing is "camming over".

I had a chance to check it out today. Worked fine for a few shifts. Then, the snap/click and a loose cable. Then I removed the cover on the lifter, and manually moved the lever back down to where it should be with a wrench. It sorta snaps back into place. After that I carefully rode back through my neighborhood to get home. Fortunately the bike pulls regardless of RPM or gear.

I will say that something made a bit of a racket with the bike in neutral. Don't know if that matters. I wondered if a lack of oil may be the problem? Just grasping at straws. Ideas?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,158 Posts
Is it possible the clutch lever & perch has been changed to something with too much travel?
The primary chain in 1000s is known to be noisy even if the carbs are well synched.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,828 Posts
Okay, so I think I adjusted the clutch according to the procedure as best one can. Still I'm experiencing what I'm guessing is "camming over".

I had a chance to check it out today. Worked fine for a few shifts. Then, the snap/click and a loose cable. Then I removed the cover on the lifter, and manually moved the lever back down to where it should be with a wrench. It sorta snaps back into place. After that I carefully rode back through my neighborhood to get home. Fortunately the bike pulls regardless of RPM or gear.

I will say that something made a bit of a racket with the bike in neutral. Don't know if that matters. I wondered if a lack of oil may be the problem? Just grasping at straws. Ideas?
To add to the suggestions I would say this. If the arm is all the way home, (as far to the left as possible)and you have a bit of free play in the clutch lever that is good. In this condition you shouldn't be able to over cam anything. If you have the adjustment as described and you still are having issues I would bet you have internal issues. If you look at part #9 above, this acts like a cage does on a bearing. It makes the ball bearings behave as they should. If the "cage" is somehow damaged it can interfere with the rolling of the ball bearings. This could cause the issue you describe.
Another thing that might cause the issue would be if the bearing #1 is failing and getting stuck occasionally. If it were my bike and you had issues with the clutch adjusted as I explained above, I would take the housing off. I bet the issue will be obvious.
 

·
Premium Member
1978 GL1000
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Is it possible the clutch lever & perch has been changed to something with too much travel?
I took a picture of the clutch perch. I wouldn't know if it wasn't original. I'm going to try backing off the cable adjustment to the point that it only just disengages the clutch and try it again.

I can say that the problem doesn't immediately occur. For example yesterday on a test run, I shifted numerous times before I got to the dreaded click. Then I whipped out the 12mm wrench and remedied the problem before driving home.
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_11152.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_11151.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
1978 GL1000
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If you have the adjustment as described and you still are having issues I would bet you have internal issues. If you look at part #9 above, this acts like a cage does on a bearing. It makes the ball bearings behave as they should. If the "cage" is somehow damaged it can interfere with the rolling of the ball bearings. This could cause the issue you describe.
Another thing that might cause the issue would be if the bearing #1 is failing and getting stuck occasionally. If it were my bike and you had issues with the clutch adjusted as I explained above, I would take the housing off. I bet the issue will be obvious.
I'm going to try slacking off the cable. When I got the bike, the clutch dragged and didn't disengage completely, so I adjusted the cable and that problem went away. Then I drove it about 20+ miles before the dreaded click happened. So, maybe slacking is enough.

That said, I think I'll follow your advice and just take the clutch cover off and have a look. That was my first inclination, but I didn't want to do that if there was a simple fix like adjusting the clutch properly.

Question for you redwing52, you mention bearing #1, but part #1 is the clutch cover. Which part are you thinking of? Part #11 is listed as an oil seal in the parts diagram.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
280 Posts
Are we sure the spec is 3/4. Turn on the screw and lock nut. Try 1/4 turn and see if it helps and does not slip.

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
1978 GL1000
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Are we sure the spec is 3/4. Turn on the screw and lock nut. Try 1/4 turn and see if it helps and does not slip.
We are sure the spec is to back the screw off 3/4 of a turn and then tighten the lock nut. I'm going to guess the cable is too tight. I've also ordered some parts, so I can take the cover off and see where that gets me. I'm sure it will work awesomely very soon now. =)
 
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
Top