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I find it necessary to replace my clutch cable. I'm working from the service manual. I removed two bolts that hold the clutch lifter cover on the clutch cover but cannot get a grip on the plate to pull it off. How much resistance should I expect from the lifter cover and how do you recommend I get a hold on it sufficient enough to pull it off?



Are there any problems I should anticipate when replacing the clutch cable?



Will I need to do the lower free play adjustment on the lifter when replacing the cable? Looks like it will be difficult with the engine in the bike.



Thank you for your assistance.
 

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I just did this clutch cable exchange on an 80 1100. Since your changing out the existing cable for a new cable take a set of side cutters and cut the inside cable off at the lower end. Be sure to open the clevis slightly to alloa the welded end of the cable to be removed. Loosen the 2 bolts holding the cable sheath. Now go to the clutch handle. Do not remove the cable from the bottom yet.

At the clutch handle, loosen everything uo including the supports to the bar. Rotate the handle to get to the bolts, nuts switch...remove the wires at the switch, with everything loose remove any screws and keep them safe. To remove the cable, open the handle, see how the cable gets routed through the channels and with the covers off you can easily disengage it. Remove the rubber boot, when the cable is disconnected fron each end stop and take a break. I found it easier to remove the false tank and the right cover.

I also found it easier to remove the cable from the handlebar end and drag the cable through the bike to the clutch end. Make sure to tie a wire, #16, or 18, not string since the area housing the cable must allow the cable and the wire to be drawn through. You will have to cut the tie wraps installed securing the existing cable.

Keep the existing cable as straight as possible and draw back from the clutch, you will end up with the wire going exactly where it has to. Tyhe last 2 feet on the right side are the tightest area pull and guide the cable using gentleness, it will draw out.

When the existing cable is all out, check for snags where it may have touched wires, rubber tubes etc,. Remove the lower clutch hardware noting how it is installed.

Tie the new cable including the sheath, pull the internal cable towards the handlw, with it pulled secure the wire and tape the wire to the cable and sheath. When you end the tape reverse the tape so that the sticky side sticks to sticky and the finish the tape reversed again and the end of the tape folded on to itself. This will keep the tspe bound and also make it easier to remove.

Pull back the wire and guide the new cable in, leavr the 2 feet on the right side to the end, get it back around the headstock and at the clutch handle, now at the clutch end pull and guide through the tite spots and make sue both ends are where they have to be. With the new cable in place, remove the wire, check the cable position throughout its length no interferences, no kinks. With each end in the correct position tie in the clutch end first, after slipping in the cable into the clevis be sure to squeeze the clevis to hold the cable end, secure the bolts to the sheath, just snugly, with the bottom in place put the handle and electrics back together, go not bend the cable it simply goes through the tunnel and into the channel and ends up in the holding position. Secure all bolts just snug, with everything in place turn the handle back into position, making sure ther are no twists in the cable and the wires are connected for the interlock. Check the position for your hand.

With both ends in place, tighten and secure. Adjust the lower end first with the 2 nuts, adjust the hand control. Place the bike in neutral start it and verify the neutral switch and interlock, place the bike on the overnight stand and wth the seat on sit on the bike, front wheel down, rear wheel off the ground and adjust the clutch, lower end first then handle, when all is good tighten both ends.

For me a new cable meant ne bike sice existing cable was rusted
 

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I just helped a friend replace the cable on his '76. The cover must just be stuck, tap it a little.The lever end comes apart easy and We had to loosen the lower adjustment to remove the old cable. It actually was harder to get out then we thought it would. And the new cable gave us a fight also.It's tight down there but it can be done, just don't be in a hurry. You need to pay close attention as to how the old cable was routed. we sprayed it with silicone to help it slide past all the other stuff routed in the same areas.,,
 

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Thank you ARKnapp and Big Cahuna, your responses were helpful. I found a cut out on the bottom of the clutch lever cover that was not observable until I laid on the floor to carefully look over the rear side of the engine. Once I found that cut out it was easy to use a medium spring hook tool I made to pop the cover off. I stilldid not have enough room to get my hamhock hands into the space to open the clinch on the cable at the lever end so I decided to remove the mufflers and the connecting pipe between them. With that done, I was able to work in that area with no problem. It's a bit more disassembly than I was expecting but along with your helpful tips that did the trick. Discretionary time expired before I completed the job but I did get the cable in place and need only to adjust it and reassemble components to be back on the road.



Thank you for your assitance.
 
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