[unsteadyrider]

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Well Guys! I've seen it here inthe past but couldn't pull it up with search.

My clutch has been hanging since I bought it 4 years ago but has gottin worse and now with the cold weather almost does not disingage.

My mechanic says 8 to 10 Hr job to pull the engine to replace the basket. says he can replace the disks without pulling the eng.

Is there a fast-er way to pull the eng? Or is there a way to only pull it partially out?

I don't have a indoor place to work on it so will have to hire it out but anything I can do to shorten his labor would be helpful as well as any on above mentioned.

Thanks guys:waving:

 

[Rumple]

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You don't need to pull the eng to replace the clutch PERIOD!!! It's tight but it can be done. I replaced mine and I didn't pull the engine. I don't even think the manual tells you to pull the motor.
Later Rumple

 

[dan filipi]

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The clutch plates and springs can be worked with the engine in but it has to come out to get the basket out.

8-10 hrs is a long time for the job, excessive IMO if he knows what he's doing.

What you could do to speed it up is pull all the trim and chrome pieces you can including the engine guards before hand.

Make sure he checks the scavenger pump is clean, if it's plugged you'll get these symptoms. This can only be done with the engine out.

 

[unsteadyrider]

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dan filipi wrote:

The clutch plates and springs can be worked with the engine in but it has to come out to get the basket out.

8-10 hrs is a long time for the job, excessive IMO if he knows what he's doing.

What you could do to speed it up is pull all the trim and chrome pieces you can including the engine guards before hand.

Make sure he checks the scavenger pump is clean, if it's plugged you'll get these symptoms. This can only be done with the engine out.

Thanks Dan. I thought so when he was telling me. But he is a Goldwing rider also. I don't have any bling but YA! the engine guards are a hassle. I'll remove the lower fairings and boxs also.

 

[RB]

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Read this first..it's for a Gl100 but almost all the same ..the damper plate is in a different place and cable attaches differently..but the basics are the same.

http://www.nakedgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6905

for a point of reference it a how to for the clutch rebuild..but you have to remove the engine for the basket t come out..Dan is right about that..the question is why is it hanging up.... your throw out bearing may not be working properly and it needs to be replaced..it's the at the beginning of the process???

You are working with very small tolerances maybe 1mm to release the drive plates from the engine plates..it doesn't take much for the plates to stick.

It's not a very hard job with the engine out of the frame..actually very simple, see the link. Thought about renting a storage unit..for one month use for a a few days to do the job as slowly as you need.. a lot cheaper than 8 hours for a mechanic. Take your time one day to pull the engine an hour or two to install new clutch and one day to reinstall engine..note if you need a new basket have a source..in place.

 

[Bagmaster]

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You know, I have a lot or work to do on my 1100 and never gave a thought to a rental space unit. There's one just 2 miles down the road for me and is owned by an old family friend. Think I'll run into town and check with him on his rates.

 

[unsteadyrider]

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RB that is a great idea except all the storage places around here have a no auto repair clause.

I have a buddy with a barn I thought about but it is not enclosed or heated. Three walls do not a habitat make!

 

[exavid]

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I think I'd pull the clutch cover off and take a look at things before I made a decision about replacing the clutch and basket. As RB mentioned it's possible the problem is in the throw out mechanism and not the clutch itself. It could easily be a damaged pushrod or the cam that operates it as well as the throw out bearing.

If you do decide to pull the engine it's really not a difficult job, I can drop the engine out of an '82 Aspencade in well under an hour, and it's much quicker to do it with a Standard. Doesn't take much more time to put it back in either. If you have a way to transport the bike to your mechanic you could disconnect the carbs and drop the pipes off to same a bit of time. The way to disconnect the carbs is to remove the four intake bolts on each side and tie the carb up to the frame. The engine can be removed leaving the carbs hanging in place. You could also disconnect the breather hose from the left rear of the engine and all the connecting wires, stator leads, sensor wires, neutral switch connector, etc. If you felt real confident you could roll back the swing arm boot and remove the snap ring inside the u-joint on the out put shaft.

Or you could leave it all for your mechanic, it shouldn't add much more than an hour to the bill.

 

[unsteadyrider]

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Thanks Exavid. :waving:

You are always a source of good sound advice.

 

[domscorpiorlg]

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I can attest to the fact that pulling the engine isn't that difficult. I pulled mine out on my bike last year, out in my driveway (with NO SHELTER of ANY kind) in about an hour or so. And that was taking my time, stopping frequently to go see what the kids were getting into, etc). I think I actually spent MAYBE around 30-35 minutes pulling the engine. I had the engine disassembled in another 45 minutes (front cover removed, rear cover/clutch cover/clutch assembly removed). Its not a difficult job at all. So, if you have somewhere out of the weather, all you need is a good service manual, a good floor jack, and some time to spare that you can devote to it!

 

[exavid]

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If you can get one the best tool for removing an engine from a 'Wing is a bike jack. I tried a floor jack on my first engine removal but found the bike jack much better. With a floor jack you almost need a helper to keep the engine stable on the jack; on the bike jack the engine will sit very solidly and even make a decent platform for working on it when it's out. To save my back, I pull the engine out with the bike jack, roll the jack and engine under a hard point in the ceiling, lift it with a come along, slide a table over and lower the engine onto that. Makes it a lot more comfortable to work on.

 

[unsteadyrider]

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WOW! Super mechanic. . Sorry! Just seems so much faster than everyone else is saying. Out and in in a day or little less I believe. That makes it two days to a week for me. Too fuddleheaded. What I can see to do at a distance from I can't up close enough to touch it. Might have something to do with the wandering eye or just brain gas. (Akin to swamp gas)

Thanks guys! All this info is really helpfull.

Asked a friend if I could use his barn and he said we could use his shop. And he has a I beam crane we could use to remove the engine. Or just lift the whole bike to work from underneath. (Would be handy for inspecting the clutch first.)

It will be a couple of months though. Need to raise the money. If just the clutch pack and/or throwout bearing or related parts could do now but want funds on hand enough to replace everything. Do not want to use someones work room and then tye it up indefinitely.

I'll keep tabs on this thread and will post what was found and done.

 

[unsteadyrider]

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Well guys. After all your help and input (All of very good and helpful), A strange thing happened.

At the same time as the clutch hanging up the starter wint out also. I got money ahead enough to replace the starter and when I started riding that bike again the clutch was no longer hanging.:stumped: Any thoughts on what could be the problem? I am sure it is still there just got scared by the inactivity.

I still intend to open it up and check/replace the throw bearing at least.

Dwight