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MY 1980 GL 1100 HAS STARTED SHOWING SIGNS OF CLUTCH SLIPPAGE. ANY EXPERIENCE OR ADVICE ABOUT CHANGING THE PLATES AND SPRINGS WOULD BE HELPFUL.I WANT TO TRY THIS REPAIR MYSELF IF IT'S NOT TOO DIFFICULT. A NICE SET OF DETAILED DIRECTIONS WOULD BE GREAT. THANKS
 

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The Irish Crew
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Its straightforward enough, but the engine has to be pulled to get at the clutch. I'm sure a nice set of detailed instructions would be great but a Haynes manual would be better with all the pictures. You don't need any special tools for the job.
 

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The manual is the best guide but it says you can replace the plates with the engine in place, that may be but i would'nt even try it that way. Take Fitzal's advice and pull the engine while your at it take the oppertunity to do all those other things that are easier with the engine out.

Oh yes there is a castle nut in the centre of the plate assembly so either make/buy the spanner or drift it out (with care) and it does matter what sequence the plates are replaced in (again check the manual).

Good luck and hope all goes well and you don't find more to do too soon.:)
 

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I don't know why the workshop books tell us that we can replace the clutch with the engine in place. Does anyone know anyone who did it this way? Anybody I know who did this jobhad to takethe engine out.
 

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Okay,

You can replace the clutch with the engine in place. It is a pain in the ass but it can be done. Take off the rear wheel to make access easier. Try and impact wrench on the center nut - if you can get it in there. You will need a special tool which costs about $30 on E-Bay.
Be sure you get the right one for the model you have. The job is straighforward: pull all the plates out, clean the basket and replace the plates. I usually flip the solid plates around; not sure why but I think it may even out the wear. There is usually not much polishing on the solid plates. Be sure you get the pressure plate back in the right way around (bearing pushes on plate).

It is far better to pull the engine to do it because then you can take the rear engine cover off and clean out all the soft clutch crap packed in there. While the engine is on the bench you can remove the side cover and clean the oil strainer, plus, if you're really ambitious, pull the alternator rotor and service rthe sprague clutch, check the starter chain, the oil pump drive chain, check the water pump seal play, etc...

Have fun.
Zaphod
 

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I think this is the record for the longest time to reply to a message.....

I replaced several clutches on the GL1100 and didn't need to take anything off except the cover and cable. Wheel stayed in place, one bike was on the side stand.
 
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