[doc_matrix]

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I purchased a 1981 Interstate with under 15,000 miles on Saturday the 19th, and I've been having troubles. I tried it outbefore buying and it ran brilliantly! However, I got it home and the breaks were sticking.when moving it into the garage, the clutch needed (what I thought at the time) some adjustment, because the bike would die when I put it into first. After adjustment, the bike won't move. The engine runs wonderfully, I can feel it shifting, but nothing gets transferred to the rear wheel. I suspect that the clutch is stuck, and I've tried putting it into different gears and rocking it back and forth with both the clutch in and out andpopping the clutch while its on the center stand. Does anyone have any ideas? BTW, I've fixed the brakes by flushing the lines.

Thanks,

John

 

[FitzAl]

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Slacken off the clutch cable as much as possible and see if the bike will get gear then. It may be as simple as the cable adjusted too tight or a seized cable especially with so low a mileage.

 

[doc_matrix]

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Well, I've slackened the cable completely, and still nothing. Is it possible that the clutch could have gone out with only 15k miles on it?

 

[Shooter]

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Nothing is impossible, don't have an 1100. Is there also an adjustment at the clutch housing area ? Most cable operated clutches have a course adjustment,(clutch area), and a fine adjustment,(lever area)...

Most cable Hondas have a center plug on clutch cover to access the adjustment screw/nut. On my 750's/900's the trick was to slack off the lever-end, then turn the adjuster at the clutch until you felt slight resistance. Lock down the screw then fine tune at the lever.

Thinking back, my Triumph and Suzuki were very similar... "Good Luck"

 

[BRowan]

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Disconnect the cable completely from the engine end and then spin the rear wheel. Pop the gearshift into gear and if the wheel stops then you know the bike is getting gear and the clutch cable is seized. If the wheel still spins freely you will kno wthe clutch is to blame.

 

[Hobie1]

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If you can't find an adjustment down by the engine, as a last ditch effort you might try draining a quart of oil and adding a quart of Marvel Mystery oil. Run the motor and let it get to operating temp for a few minutes and shut it off. Let it sit overnight and try the clutch. The mmo might free up the clutch. If it does, then ride the bike for an additional couple of hundred miles and then change the oil. Just make sure that you don't put in any oil that has friction modifiers. Amsoil, Mobil 1 redcap, and Rotella-T full synth(in the blue bottle) are the most often mentioned.

Good luck with your scoot!

:11red:Hobie and friend.

 

[doc_matrix]

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Ok, it seems that the majority of people that I've asked have suggested checking the adjustment at the clutch (the course adjustment). I'll try that tomorrow night and report back....if still nothing, I may try the MMO.

 

[FitzAl]

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Did you do the job yet Doc? I'm wondering how you got on with it.

 

[mjohnson]

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The Marvel Mystery Oil is good advice even if the adjustment works. I have used it in the gas and in the oil - stuff is a "marvel" I purchased 1982 interstate and have been getting it read for the spring - these guys have helped with a lot of questions -good luck



:15white:

 

[Goldwinger1984]

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That MMO stuff cures baldness andcancer andhelps you stop smoking cigarettes and will make your engine run without spending any money on gasoline. They should just lay off all mechanics and have DIY MMO shops all over the place so that mechanical repairs will be a thing of the past.

Vic

 

[doc_matrix]

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Well, I have fixed the problem. Per some information from a buddy in Iowa and the one above from PA, I slackened all of the cables, took the plug out of the clutch cover, backed out the internal adjustment screw until it clicked, and then adjusted everything properly. Thanks to all for their thoughts!

 

[Shooter]

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So glad that you were able to get it all sorted. Ride Safe... :gunhead: