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I recently bought an 83 interstate. Fist bike in many years but I am a true Goldwing fan. The bike has only 28k on it. It starts and runs like a champ. However after 2 days of ownership, the front brake froze up. Through other posts here, I did a rebuild of the front master cyl and bleed all the lines, put new pads on and a new rotor as the caliper that locked up warped the rotor.

Thought that fixed it all, however, the brakes froze up again in traffic. It seems to happen when they get hot. I plan on rebuilding the calipers and replacing the lines as that should take care of it. However, during this last time I was trying to get the bike to a safe place off the road with the brake locked up. The bike seemed to be losing drive power the futher I went (only about 3 blocks). Once I parked it and let the bike cool, the brakes released. So, when I tried to continue on, the bike will not go into gear. I can shift, but it is like the bike is in neutral even when I know it is in 2nd or 3rd gear. Did I burn out the clutch pushing it to the safe spot?

If it is the clutch, does anyone know if I must remove the engine to replace the clutch plates? The clymer book makes it sound like older models can remove the clutch assembly w/o removing the engine, but 82 & 83 models require the engine to be removed. Could it be something besides the clutch? If you have ideas on the brakes also, that would be appreciated, but the clutch concerns me more.

Your help will be appreciated as I am anxious to ride again.
 

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:waving::waving:Welcome to the Best Goldwing Site on the Internet, Markday20!:waving::waving:

Sorry to hear about your problems with your new ride. You could check the clutch by putting the bike on the center stand, shift it into gear and try to pull the rear wheel by hand to see if it turns when the engine doesn't. I believe it's possible to replace the clutch disks without pulling the engine, but not the clutch basket.

It is possible the clutch is gone if you did a LOT of revving and slipping, first try changing the oil, odd things can happen if the oil was overheated by the clutch.

Sounds likely to me that the problem with the brakes might be frozen calipers. Did you rebuild the caliper. Usually when the pads wear down it's a good idea to take the caliper apart, clean it up and reassemble with new seals and dust seal. Check all the calipers to see if they move, they should have free motion side to side to allow them to center over the disk. If the calipers are frozen so they can't move it's likely to cause heating and lock up. You can check for brake dragging by spinning the wheel, the pads will touch the rotor but there shouldn't be any appreciable drag on the wheel. Check both wheels, the rear on on the center stand and the front with a small jack under the front of the engine to lift the front wheel clear of the ground.
 

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Thanks for the welcome. This site is awesome.

I played with the cable last night and I think that is the issue. When I have the bike on the center stand, The rear wheel starts to move if I put the bike into first gear. However, I cannot seem to get it to stop moving when I pull in the clutch. I have gotten it to where if I have the clutch pulled in and I shift down to 3rd gear or up, the bike does die if I let out the clutch but will keep running with the clutch pulled in. The wheel spins slowly. In first gear when I let out the clutch and give the bike gas, the wheel does get power.

When adjusting the cables I am assuming screwing the cable all the way into the lever at the handle bar is loosening the cable. I did that, then I loosened the cable t the clutch location. Now just not sure correct way to get it so the clutch stops all power going to the wheel when pulled in.
 

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When the bike's on the center stand sometimes the rear wheel will turn due to oil drag in the clutch plates. It sounds like you might still have some brake dragging. With the bike in neutral can you turn the rear wheel freely? There shouldn't be any appreciable drag. Adjust your clutch cable so there's about1/4-3/8 inch freeplay at the end of the lever before the clutch release lever at the engine begins to move. The main thing is that you want enough slack to the clutch can fully engage, but not so much the clutch isn't fully disengaged.\

I think you need to take care of the brakes first, there might not be a clutch problem. The reason you can get power to the wheel in first gear is because the gear ratio is low enough to force the brake rotor through the caliper. In higher gears there isn't enough power and the engine dies. Make sure of the brakes before you do damage the clutch. Remove the rear caliper, if it doesn't want to come off after you've removed the two mounting bolts that's telling you the problem. If this is the case, crack the bleeder to let off any brake fluid pressure, then carefully pry the caliper off the rotor. Be careful not to scar or bend the disk. I'll bet a pint of Bass Ale it's the caliper frozen on it's mounting sleeves that's causing the problem.
 

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markday20 wrote:
Thanks for the welcome. This site is awesome.
Hey markday20 :waving:[shadow=green]WELCOME[/shadow]to the best Goldwing Forum on the net. :clapper: Yes sir this site is awesome. :weightlifter:

:leprechaun::18red::leprechaun:
 

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Welcome to the forum. You can make sure if its clutch cable or not by levering the clutch arm at the back of the engine with a screwdriver or someting similar. This bypasses the cable so you will know for sure where the problem lies.
 

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Thanks for all the help. Okay, 2 new issues. The clutch seems to shift okay, however, now when I give the bike a good go on the throttle, the clutch slips. I can only get the bike up to 65-70 now as it really slips in OD.

The yesterday, the tach quit working and the bike would not start. Put on a new battery and that fixed the starting. Checked both ends if the tack and they are connected. So do tach cables break in the middle? Starting to feel lioke I am having to redo the whole bike.

Any help on the clutch would be greatly appreciated.
 
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