Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

Hello Everyone! I am a newbie and this is my first post. This is going to be kinda long, so you may want to grab a cup of coffee. My bike (1989 1500)had been sitting for a couple of years and I decided to start working on it. Carbs were gunked up, so I took them out cleaned them up and reinstalled them. Then I was going to do a oil change, took the bike out to warm up the oil and I didn't have any back brakes. I had to rebuild the rear caliper and I flushed out the old fluid. I decided that I should replace the fluid in the clutch and front brake as well. So, I started with the clutch and not paying attention, let the resevoir run dry. So, following the directions in Clymer, I was able to get the clutch working again, so I thought. When the bike is cold everything is fine. After about fifteen minutes of riding, If I try to accelerate, the RPM's go up, but the bike doesn't increase speed. If I let up on the throttle and ease into increasing the speed it will increase very slowly. When I got home, I put it in first gear, released the clutch lever and the bike would not move. Once it cooled off, I was able to ride again for about fifteen minutes and the same thing would happen again. Did I do something wrong when I bled the clutch (other than letting it run dry) or was it a coincidence and something else is wrong? Any advise, suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,524 Posts
imported post

Your clutch is in the same oil bath as the engine oil. Careful on what type of oil you change out with. Some will actually make it slip. But your problems seems more than just the wrong oil, sounds like the clutch just might be warn. Lets see what some others say that are way more technical than myself.

Again, Welcome to the forum.:waving:
Spider
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,828 Posts
imported post

The two easiest things that come to mind is this.1) If the lever or bore of the master has rust or corrosion the fluid can not return to the master cylinder. There is a hole that is located at the bottom of the master. The purpose of the hole is to keep the bore full of fluid and let that fluid return when the lever is released. If the piston in the master does not return past that hole the fluid is trapped. Heat makes the trapped fluid expand and build pressure. That increase in line pressure could be releasing your clutch some. With that said, the saame hole must be free of any obstruction. The scenario is the same as fluid can not return through a plugged hole. If you say the bike sat a while I would check both carefully. Especially the lever and piston bore of the master.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
imported post

I did take the master apart once and tried to clean it out. I can try it again. Is there a cleaning product that I should use to clean it with?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,398 Posts
imported post

From the OP's info he hadn't changed the engine oil out yet, just the clutch fluid.

Let's hope it is just something to do with the MC not returining fluid. Do the 1500's have that little hole in the MC that gets plugged?


Come to think of it, I bought a 97 ST1100 a couple years ago with a similar issue, just in reverse. Drove all the way out to PA from VA to pick it up, thinking I was going to ride it home. Fortunately we brought my trailer just in case, because 5 miles later the clutch lever simply quit and went all the way to the bar.

Turns out the fluid hadn't been changed in years and the bottom of the reservoir was GREEN. The junk had scored the cylinder enough that a rebuild didn't take, so I had to get a used MC off Ebay.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
imported post

I did do an oil change, bought Valvoline Motorcycle oil and Fram oil filter from local auto store. After noticing the problem, I went to Honda store and bought Honda oil and filter, did the oil change and still had the same problem. I am going to take the MC apart again tomorrow and try cleaning it out again. I'll also blow out the line just in case there may be some sediment it the line. I'm really not sure how to tell if the MC is okay or not.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
54 Posts
imported post

Hi there , welcome to the site. I've read your question about the clutch and I'm thinking the clutch is going bad on you. Since it works good cold I'm not convinced on the master or slave cyl. , they SHOULD act the same hot or cold if they were the trouble. Since it wait's till it's warm to act up I think the clutch itself is slipping, but that's just my opinion, maybe someone here will have better news or ideas.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
26,939 Posts
imported post

Take a wrench with you to fit the bleeder. Go out and warm it up and when it starts to slip stop and loosen the bleeder. If pressure escapes and the clutch works again the problem is probably in the master cylinder.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
90 Posts
imported post

My friend purcased an 88 gl 1500 that had been standing a couple of years and had a simular problem. He rode the few miles home without issues, however on its first longer ride all started great until 15+ mile into our trip and the clutch started to slip. We decided to pop into my fathers and expected it to be a worn clutch with 70000+ miles. however after a cup of tea we selected first and held the front brake to show my father that he had a big job to do! however the wing just buried its front end and the clutch failed to slip! after several attempts the same result. after a fair time my father tried higher gears and repeated opperation! as the gears rose and the engine warmed the clutch started to slip. my father repeated in quite an agressive matter to dump the clutch and pull it back and forward! my friend and i were horrified! However 8000 miles later and a change of oil and never a slip again! It would appear that the clutch splines were not running free and not fully returning allowing the clutch not to be fully disengaged! It could be worth a try? Good Luck
Derek Hackett
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
90 Posts
imported post

My friend purcased an 88 gl 1500 that had been standing a couple of years and had a simular problem. He rode the few miles home without issues, however on its first longer ride all started great until 15+ mile into our trip and the clutch started to slip. We decided to pop into my fathers and expected it to be a worn clutch with 70000+ miles. however after a cup of tea we selected first and held the front brake to show my father that he had a big job to do! however the wing just buried its front end and the clutch failed to slip! after several attempts the same result. after a fair time my father tried higher gears and repeated opperation! as the gears rose and the engine warmed the clutch started to slip. my father repeated in quite an agressive matter to dump the clutch and pull it back and forward! my friend and i were horrified! However 8000 miles later and a change of oil and never a slip again! It would appear that the clutch splines were not running free and not fully returning allowing the clutch not to be fully disengaged! It could be worth a try? Good Luck
Derek Hackett
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
662 Posts
imported post

I realize that you have changed the oil a couple of times all ready But you might want to try putting Seafoamin the oil and run it for awhile and see if that helps the clutch, if it's not worn.

CYA - Jim
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,524 Posts
imported post

Gary, anything new, just curious.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
imported post

Last night I took the bike for a ride with my 10mm wrench and a piece of tubing. I rode for about fifteen to twenty minutes to get it warmed up. Once it started slipping, I pulled over and attached the tubing (so it wouldn't get on the bike) and opened the bleeder. Some fluid came out and then an air bubble and then some more fluid. I got back on the bike and rode it for another fifteen minutes or so and it seems fine now. I am going to take it for another ride this evening and see if it still slips or if it was just because of the air bubble. If it happens again, at least it is narrowed down to the master cylinder. If it is the master cylinder I will check for blockage in the hole and if that doesn't work, I may be posting a new post on help with the MC. I want to thank everyone for their input. I really appreciate it!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
imported post

I forgot to mention that I did add some seafoam to the oil and have run it about fifty miles now. I will run it a little more and then drain it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
133 Posts
imported post

Hey Gary, Howdy from neighboring Frankfort. This forum helped me rebuild an 82 Asp that runs great now. Hope to see you on the road this summer.:dude::dude::dude:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
imported post

Hi Neighbor! We'll have to hook up some day and go for a ride after I get this fixed.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
imported post

I just got back from about a 45 minute ride and it seems a lot better. I didn't loose any gears, however, when I was in fourth and I goosed it, it would slip a little. When I got back I bled the line again, there was no air bubble this time. I am going to take it out again tomorrow and go for a longer ride on the highway and see what happens. I still have the seafoam in the oil and plan to drain it tomorrow after my ride. I don't know if the seafoam would make fourth gear slip or not. That was the only gear that I had any slipage in today. After I put in the new oil, I'll see what happens before I start on the MC.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top