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Recently I posted a question about my clutch - how it should feel. Thanks for the responses. It kept bugging me though. I pulled the slave and it was full of crud. Cleaned it out and bled it. Still didn't solve the problem. It still seems to clunk when going into 1st gear. For the heck of it I put it up on center stand, clunked it into gear with the clutch pulled and the back wheel started spinning. I could put my shoe against it and stop it, but thought it was strange. When I released the clutch in gear and pulled it in, it would continue to spin the rear wheel. Again, I could stop the wheel spinning with my shoe. thought this was weird. The speedo says it only has 51K on it. Is this indicitive of a clutch being gone?

If so I know I need to pull the engine 'again'. Getting good at it now. I've found a place for the plates and clutch cover seal. I'm pretty sure I can modify a socket to get the basket out. Anything else I need to know or tools I need to replace the clutch?

Thanks all,
 

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I'm not a Guru but I think a little wheel spin is normal. It's just inertia being transmitted through the drive train. As long as you can stop it with a little foot pressure I wouldn't worry about it.

Bob :11grey:
 

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Yeah the wheel spin is normal, on every bike I've owned you run it on the center stand the wheel will spin even with the clutch in, sometimes even in neutral, I wouldn't worry about it, if It was the slave you wouldn't be able to stop it with your shoe,

What does the clutch feel like riding it, Does it take off as soon as you start releasing the clutch, or There sould be some play before the bike starts to pull away



Is your idle set to were it's suppose to be, A fast idle will make it clunk into gear, Just another idea before you rip out the motor again
 

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I can't make the clutch slip, but the unknown factor just sticks in my mind.

What does a worn clutch act like?


The idle spins around 1k on the tach. Don't know how accurate it is though. I could tune it down a bit and see how it goes.


The clutch releases just as it is pressed in and engages just before you let it go. It has good resistance throughout the full pull.
 

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well if the clutch was gone the bike wouldn't move, or would slip bad,

I've never delt with a slave on a bike before, all mine are cables, but on cars if the slave was bad its hard to get into gear, and the car wants to go even with the clutch pushed in. I think it would be the same on a bike, but if the slave was bad I don't think you would be able to stop the tire with your foot, if you did it would snub out the bike, or send the bike riding.
 

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Can't see it being the clutch if it's driving. Sounds like either the master or the slave or both need an overhaul.
 

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Ken Tripp wrote:
84 Int

Recently I posted a question about my clutch - how it should feel. Thanks for the responses. It kept bugging me though. I pulled the slave and it was full of crud. Cleaned it out and bled it. Still didn't solve the problem. It still seems to clunk when going into 1st gear. For the heck of it I put it up on center stand, clunked it into gear with the clutch pulled and the back wheel started spinning. I could put my shoe against it and stop it, but thought it was strange. When I released the clutch in gear and pulled it in, it would continue to spin the rear wheel. Again, I could stop the wheel spinning with my shoe. thought this was weird. The speedo says it only has 51K on it. Is this indicitive of a clutch being gone?

If so I know I need to pull the engine 'again'. Getting good at it now. I've found a place for the plates and clutch cover seal. I'm pretty sure I can modify a socket to get the basket out. Anything else I need to know or tools I need to replace the clutch?

Thanks all,
Hey Ken:waving:Welcome to the Forum. The wheel spin is normal and the clunk as you put it,when putting it into 1st gear is also normal, It will clunk morethe first time when cold. A good clunk when shifting is good, that way you know it is a positive shift.



:12red::cool:
 

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Ken Tripp wrote:
84 Int

Recently I posted a question about my clutch - how it should feel. Thanks for the responses. It kept bugging me though. I pulled the slave and it was full of crud. Cleaned it out and bled it. Still didn't solve the problem. It still seems to clunk when going into 1st gear. For the heck of it I put it up on center stand, clunked it into gear with the clutch pulled and the back wheel started spinning. I could put my shoe against it and stop it, but thought it was strange. When I released the clutch in gear and pulled it in, it would continue to spin the rear wheel. Again, I could stop the wheel spinning with my shoe. thought this was weird. The speedo says it only has 51K on it. Is this indicitive of a clutch being gone?

If so I know I need to pull the engine 'again'. Getting good at it now. I've found a place for the plates and clutch cover seal. I'm pretty sure I can modify a socket to get the basket out. Anything else I need to know or tools I need to replace the clutch?
Ken, your question is pretty well answered above. I will just add:

Remember that your clutch is a multi-plate affair with engine oil between all the plates. That engine oil has a surface tension to it & will try to drive one plate to the next. Cold oil or improper viscosity oil can make the clutch plates really try to drive each other. (this is not a dry clutch you are dealing with so it won't completely release like a dry clutch does).

If you suspect a clutch problem try a lighter or different engine oil first as someone might have added an oil additive at one time & some of those oil additives (like Lucas) can really cause a clutch drag problem.

As far as clutch wear goes. If I remember correctly, your clutch released near the end of travel. That usually indicates straight clutch plates with little or no warping (warped or bent plates start driving a lot sooner in the release). Those hydraulic clutches do seem to release farther out than a cable clutch as the fluid back-fills the cylinders & keeps free play to a minimum. If you want the clutch to release closer to the handle bar try a different clutch hand lever or work on the barrel that the clutch master cylinder pin rides against in the hand lever.

Twisty
 

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Hi Ken,

As everyone else has said, the wheel turning is just inertia through the oil around the clutch so the wheel will spin when there is no resistance against it.

have you tried increasing your idle speed slightly, I found by keeping my(bikes) idle speed to about 950RPM, the clunk into 1st gear is not so bad when cold and is not even noticable when the engine is hot.
 

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On a wet,(oil bath), clutch if I pump the lever 10/15 times after engine start, I may still get the Honda clunk but it's softer and the lurch from the sticking plates is greatly reduced.
 

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Getting a clunk going into gear has been SOP on both Goldwings I've owned. When the engine is cold there's a slight lurch too. It's just from the cold oil dragging on the clutch plates. Once the engine is well warmed the clunk is lighter but still there. If the clutch releases within the first quarter of the lever pull and is fully engaged (i.e. doesn't slip) when the lever is released, I'd call it good. If the clutch is going you'd probably see some slipping when going into the higher gears while accelerating.
 

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Warm it up a hair, shut off at throttle, turn back on. Hit gearshift down and starter button at the same time. Works perfect. Why risk excreeting metal into the oil, ie. chipped trans dogs.1 cents worth.
 
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