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I have a 1983 GL1100 with 79,000 miles. I've noticed a few times that the clutch will slip under heavy accelleration in higher gears. I've adjusted the top end and bottom end of the cable as described in the Clymer manual.

I'm a little timid about opening the cover and performing the adjustment inside the case.

Is it most likely, with my mileage, that the clutch plates are worn out?

Can you normally get a couple of adjustments out of them before they are completely gone?

Will the clutch slip when the basket is worn out?



Thanks,
 

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There is no adjustment inside the case for an '83 that I've ever heard of. The previous versions of the 1100 had an additional adjustment that involved a lock nut and screw that came through the cover. Some manuals talk about all the models at one time and don't distinguish well between them.
Questions:
Yes it is very likely that the original clutch is worn out at 79K.
Can't really say how many times you can adjust a clutch.
If the basket is worn and the disks get hung then it could I suppose cause the clutch to slip. Does the handle operate smoothly from full out to full in? I'd give 19 out of 20 all you need is new disks.

LOL
 

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I'm glad I posted my questions before trying to make an impossible adjustment! Thanks alot, Clymer!

The clutch lever works smoothly.

The only other thing I've noticed, the bike was parked for about 3 months, and when I started it, warmed it up, then engaged first gear and began to let out the clutch, it made a squalling noise.

I pulled the clutch lever back in, and let it out several times, but didn't hear the noise again.

Weird, huh?
 

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Not Really! If they sit for a while, maybe even a week or so the disks can stick to the plates. Opening and closing it a few times will allow the oil to get refreshed and everything to loosen up.
 

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Thanks, FGH. That eases my mind a bit.

I've skimmed over the clutch disk replacement procedure. Seems pretty simple. Is it?:?

Any ideas on cost of replacement disks?
 

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Question. What type of oil are you using? Some types of automotive oil can negativly impact clutch performance.
 

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I honestly don't remember the brand. I bought it at O'Reilly's. I do remember looking up the required weight, and found the motorcycle oil at O'Reilly's in that weight.

It isn't Honda brand oil, but it is motorcycle oil, and it is the reccomended weight.
 

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As long as it's motorcycle oil or oil without friction modifiers you should be ok. It's possible at 79,000 that the clutch is worn.
 

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Does it slip with the clutch totally released or slip while shifting under alot of power, kind of slow catching?
Mine did the latter for a few hundred miles after the engine had been siting idle for a few years. I had torn it down and miked everything and found it all within spec.
The slipping is gone now so I guess a wet clutch has to reseat after sitting.
Maybe it has something to do with the oil needing to saturate the plates.
The engine has about 80K on it, about 6K since I had the clutch apart.
It did just start chattering ever so slightly after slow going in hilly traffic.
Might have just been a hot clutch.

I'd put some miles on it before tearing it down, your slip may go away.
 

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Rick
Check to make sure the cable is not binding, is there the proper free play at the engine end? I had a 1200 years ago that had cluth problems. I guy suggested I add a half qt of MMO to the oil for 500 miles then change the oil. I did that and for the remaning 2 years I had that bike the clutch worked flawless. The MMO will clean the discs and plates. Worth a try.
 

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Cal-D,

Super cool avatar picture of the wheelie!

The clutch cable works freely.

What is MMO?
 

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MARVEL MYSTERY OIL.

Neat stuff for your crankcase and fuel tank. Clears out a lot of gunk in both. Do a search in this forum and you will get more info.
 

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Ahh! Since you spelled it out for me, I know what you're talking about. I've seen it at Wal-Mart. I've heard that it works wonders on old engines.
 

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Baby the engine with no high revs when that stuff is in there since it thins the oil quite a bit.

You might want to try Shell Rotella T after running the MMO.
I just put that in and notice smoother shifting and the engine running a tad cooler.
 

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Thanks for the advice guys!

I was just off reading some of the other threads pertaining to MMO.

I wonder if anyone has hadexperience with MMO helping fix the perpetual neutral light. I've read that this common problem is due to carbon build-up on the oil-submerged neutral switch. Am I in the right ballpark?
 

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rthurstenson wrote:
Thanks for the advice guys!

I was just off reading some of the other threads pertaining to MMO.

I wonder if anyone has had experience with MMO helping fix the perpetual neutral light. I've read that this common problem is due to carbon build-up on the oil-submerged neutral switch. Am I in the right ballpark?
Yep!
 
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